bluegen1e Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 All that have replied to this thread. I spoke too soon. On the morning commute the RR crapped out again. soon as I was stuck in traffic the bike heated up, the fan came on and from then on I just watched the voltage drop steadily while praying I don't stall in the middle of Manhattan traffic. managed to get to the office, battery at 10.9v. I wouldn't start blaming Rick's yet cos I rode a handful of times last week one ride being around 50 miles with no issues but all highway. Think there's a burned wire or a fuckity connector somewhere. As I said previously only one of my headlights are working, where as last year both were working fine. I tested the bulb. gonna pull everything off. and maybe set it on fire. just kidding. maybe not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thtanner Posted October 17, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2016 To be honest, I'm blaming Ricks until proven otherwise :D I understand the feeling about setting it on fire. Almost did that last year with my cruiser due to the charging system, haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDutchy Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Maybe it somewhere out of left field... Did you check the ground wire that goes from the battery - post to the engine.. On the engine side it is a known spot for culprit. It's located on the bolt that holds the waterpipe on the left side (from the waterpump to inbetween the cilinder banks). I had the same on my VFR.. At hot conditions, I lost all electrics.. When cooled down again, it would fire up instantly.. Maybe worth a check.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegen1e Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 Thanks Dutchy, I'm gonna look into that. Stalled on the highway on the way back. pushed it off and pulled all the fuses out other than ignition. the battery was at around 11v and managed to push start it. once running i noticed instead of volts dropping like a countdown it was at a steady 12v. which i hadn't seen since the morning commute. my hunch is 1 headlight not turning on has to do something with this. probably a burned connector somewhere that's draining the battery and RR over heating and crapping out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Top your battery off, disconnect your rr, disconnect your head and taillights and see if it is still draining at an unusually high rate when running. The ignition/fuel pump/ecu shouldn't be pulling that much current on it's own. I have a feeling that the rr is shorting and actually pulling current instead of supplying it. You can do a leak down test and see how much current is being pulled from the battery by the ignition/fuel pump/ecu while running. Then you can add the lights and see if the difference makes sense. Then you can add the rr back in and see how it changes. You might want to try this both hot and cold, as it can be a short that only shows when hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegen1e Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 Thanks CandyRed. that;s a good idea, I will try that. I will have to wait fir a sunny weekend if I'm riding without any lights. but it's good starting point! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegen1e Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 hey guys, I finally got a MOSFET type R/R from Roadster cycle. Going to put this in when the weather is nicer and start testing all connections and the ground wire to the engine block. Can anyone tell me what these little blue rubber plugs do? Am I suppose to insert them into the cut wire, put the metal crimp thing on and slide it into the hole after plugging the metal connectors? Where does this dielectric grease go? Do I have to solder the wire to the metal crimp? Sorry for all the questions, I don't want to fuck this up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Marooncobra Posted February 2, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 2, 2017 They fit over the wire prior to soldering/crimping the spade connectors on and provide a waterproofing seal once you fit the wire with the spade connector into the plug. I usually slip them down the wire a few inches before pushing the spade connector into the connector, apply some dielectric grease into the back of the connector and then slip the plug into the back of the connector. To push it all the way in I use a small wooden toothpick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegen1e Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 Thanks Marooncobra I'm going to give it a shot. I will update the thread soon as I get the part in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted February 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 4, 2017 Get a good crimp tool and youll be fine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted February 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 4, 2017 On 2/2/2017 at 1:04 PM, Marooncobra said: They fit over the wire prior to soldering/crimping the spade connectors on and provide a waterproofing seal once you fit the wire with the spade connector into the plug. I usually slip them down the wire a few inches before pushing the spade connector into the connector, apply some dielectric grease into the back of the connector and then slip the plug into the back of the connector. To push it all the way in I use a small wooden toothpick. The first and second sentences here seem contradictory to me. Just for clarification, the nose of the rubber plug should be crimped IN TO the spade connector with the back prongs on the connector. Each finished wire should look vaguely like the picture attached. It is also very nearly impossible to correctly crimp these connectors without the specific crimp tool. If you were just going to slide them up the wire, without crimping into the connector, I would use RTV silicon rather than dielectric. This should help make sure they stay in the connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 ... my hunch is 1 headlight not turning on has to do something with this... So I would check and sort that out asap... Only then would I spend money on a new R/R... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegen1e Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Thanks MadScientist Auspanglish The pic clarified a lot!! Going to get a crimping tool, good to have one in the arsenal anyway. I'm going to put the RR on but will be tearing down the front end at the same time to see if there's anything burnt and get the headlight issue sorted before riding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegen1e Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 hey guys, back at it again. tore down the fairings and trying to see if there are any short connections in the wiring before i put the new RR back on. especially trying to solve the one headlight working. do you know if it's suppose to be one or both headlights working in stock form for the 4th gen. any places that you guys can think of that might be the issue? wiring around the headlight and the cluster seem to be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegen1e Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 On 10/17/2016 at 1:58 PM, TheDutchy said: Maybe it somewhere out of left field... Did you check the ground wire that goes from the battery - post to the engine.. On the engine side it is a known spot for culprit. It's located on the bolt that holds the waterpipe on the left side (from the waterpump to inbetween the cilinder banks). I had the same on my VFR.. At hot conditions, I lost all electrics.. When cooled down again, it would fire up instantly.. Maybe worth a check.. I looked at the ground wire, seems to be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer auggius Posted June 15, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2017 @bluegen1e Both headlights should be on with the 4th gen VFR. If you can't find an obvious short then it may be a hidden break within a wiring loom. I had a similar situation with a non-working rear turn signal. I had to open up the sub-harness to the rear lights to find a broken wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegen1e Posted June 16, 2017 Author Share Posted June 16, 2017 Thank you for all your help @auggius @Marooncobra @MadScientist @TheDutchy @CandyRedRC46 @Auspanglish @thtanner *fingers crossed* the bike seems to be charging now. I put on the roadstercycle mosfet RR. shows a constant 14.3 and ran for about hour half and no issues. The headlight issue was just the bulb, not sure why my good bulb didn't work when I switched plugs previously but I pulled everything apart and checked wiring, adapters etc and all seem good. Going to get a new headlight soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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