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Connected a 6 wire R-R, question on the sensing line


VFRSuperfreak

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Hi friends hopefully some of you are up late. Today I hooked up a 6 wire RR, however for reasons listed later*, I hooked up the sensor wire (black), directly to the positive battery post. 

I've now stored the bike and gone elsewhere I can't bring it, and am worried that with this setup, either the battery will be drained, or the RR will be toasted as it's on a closed circuit.   Does anyone know that the RR would be smart enough to have an open loop in the inside circuitry when it's not charging or otherwise receiving power from the stator?

 

THANKS!

PD:

*My reasoning for wiring it this way: Placed on a light or brake line as suggested elsewhere, leaves the line vulnerable to a dead fuse in that circuit, which then would cause the RR to send a full 20+ volt charge. Also; the fluctuatio in a bulb line is about 1volt, I tested!, I believe this would cause the RR to constantly hunt for the right level in a wider range, overworking its innards.   

 

 

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  • Member Contributer

Insisting on a fitting a R/R that was not designed for the 4th gen conjures up this image in my mind...

 

square-peg1.jpg

 

 

:goofy:

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1 hour ago, Dutchy said:

Insisting on a fitting a R/R that was not designed for the 4th gen conjures up this image in my mind...

 

square-peg1.jpg

 

 

:goofy:

 

Thanks but, do you really think this model was designed properly in the electric realm?.  We need to make it better son!. 

 

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34 minutes ago, CandyRedRC46 said:

Any reason why you didn't go with the tried and true Shindengen FH020aa?

I can´t find it here and won´t order one to lose it in Mexican customs. 

My bad, maybe I should state where I am before I post. Because if I were next to a Cycle World in Toronto where I used to live... I´d have the proper part every time! (even if they make me wait for head ball bearings 4 months like they did one time!, here I just bring the offending sample and walk out with something close, that works.).

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 02/06/2016 at 10:31 AM, CandyRedRC46 said:

The FH020aa is a factory part on a lot of newer bikes. So are you using a generic chinese RR? That usually ends badly.

 

Thanks for the link. When it comes to ordering sometimes I call STG in Michigan. I'll keep rapidbike in mind.

 

Let me also add that I have a chronic health problem so, small shit that can be fixed easily, to me it's 3 days of sweat and naps. (myasthenia gravis), this also prevents me from earning normal pesos. SO THIS IS WHY I end up testing sub-par shit. (which I think should be of use!, I test questionable shit!) However...

I'm happy to report that the new, Chinese, made for "big bikes like yours", that cost me about $60. is charging good enough:

 

13.5 idle, 12.7. with fan and brake lights on, and about 14.7 at over 3kRPM, the needle on the analog voltmeter points to over 14 anytime I blip the throttle. This is good enough. YEs I'm aware that low number at idle + fan may become a problem later, but I'm watching all wires, dash lights and voltmeter. Also aware that the stator might be the root of this low charge, but with a lightweight RR, I'll leave the stator alone, else risk overloading the RR ha-ha. 

AT LEAST I'M RIDING!. Every other MG sufferer is housebound.

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