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Watch out for SeaFoam


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I've been using SeaFoam in every tankful for the last 6 months.  It's so good it ate through many of the O-rings in the fuel system on all thee of my RC36's.  They're all 20 years old and the rubber O-rings and gaskets are about done anyway.   I just pulled the carbs on my 97 to rebuild them and the intakes and the valves are like new.  No carbon or gunk buildup.  Awesome stuff, but use it with respect, especially if your bike is older.

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I must admit to not understanding why people use this stuff.

Use good fuel, no problems. Why add something that doesn't burn?

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It burns good, I use it as starting fluid in small engines.  You just can't use a lot of it.

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The directions say one ounce for every gallon of gas.  I think that's too much if you want to protect against old rubber seals failing prematurely.

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semi-related: anybody have a list of all the various seals gaskets and o-rings needed to rebuild the fuel system/carbs? my '94 is past due for a look-see, cleaning and sync at 82k and it would be convenient if somebody sold a kit. 

 

Thanks.

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New seal kits can be had for the 90-93 now through lite-tek because I talked them into producing them.  They're made out of far superior material as well.  They also do 94-97 kits.

So in essence, get them replaced, it's cheap and adds insane longevity to the bike.

 

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5 minutes ago, MadFrog said:

semi-related: anybody have a list of all the various seals gaskets and o-rings needed to rebuild the fuel system/carbs? my '94 is past due for a look-see, cleaning and sync at 82k and it would be convenient if somebody sold a kit. 

 

Thanks.

http://litetek.co/

 

You will NOT get better than these kits.

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You've taken away my belief that the OEM (Keihin) were the best.  Every time I've used aftermarket parts instead of OEM, it's a problem in some way or another.  It's generally not the performance of the aftermarket part, but rather it's fitment.

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1 hour ago, 750 said:

http://litetek.co/

 

You will NOT get better than these kits.

Ok. I'll trust your opinion. I've ordered a kit for the VFR, and a kit for a Ninja 250 whose seals got eaten up by ethanol and started leaking all over my garage...

I'll report back once I receive and install. Thanks!

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Speaking to the chap who owns the company (completely forgotten his name, oops) he assured me the material used is of much superior quality to the standard (makes sense on a few levels, most important one being the technology, materials available and cost advantages of what was used back then).  

When I had the carbs completely taken to pieces, cleaned and rebuilt with the new seals, the chap who did it commented on how good the kit was - but then he's also worked with Litetek for years, which is how I got onto them and persuaded them to build one for the 90-93 as nobody was doing them a year or two ago.

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BLAIR MCINTOSH, according to whois...

Ciao,

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8 hours ago, JZH said:

BLAIR MCINTOSH, according to whois...

Ciao,

That's his name, Blair's a top guy as well.  Any questions are answered really quickly considering he's in Thailand!  He's from Australia originally.

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Here is a picture of the intake and valves after using SeaFoam for 600 miles.  This bike has 20k miles and is 20 years old.

image.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
  • Member Contributer

Seafoam is based on kerosene which will not eat o-rings, but the ethanol

added to our gas will most definitely eat o-rings especially the older ones.

 

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  • 9 months later...
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Finally got around to taking the carbs off the bike. Kinda forced to because I developed a coolant leak on the pipe that goes from one side to the other in the vee of the engine. Anyway, taking it slow and taking a break for today after getting the carbs off.
I have dirty intake valves. Should I run some sea foam after rebuilding the carbs and replacing the seals/o-rings with litetek ones? Or is there another solution?
0811fae041808e98135f6136c56d4a7d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Ive only used seafoam on on carbed bike and Ill never do it again. Maybe seafoam wasn't to blame or maybe I used too much (its been a long time) but my carbs were completely sludged with green gunk after its use. Corrosion of brass jets maybe? Anyway Ive been scared to use it every since,

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On ‎4‎/‎1‎/‎2017 at 8:51 PM, MBrane said:

I'd be more worried about all that dirt around the opening getting into the cylinder.

That's why God created vacuum cleaners.

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46 minutes ago, NISxMO said:

Ive only used seafoam on on carbed bike and Ill never do it again. Maybe seafoam wasn't to blame or maybe I used too much (its been a long time) but my carbs were completely sludged with green gunk after its use. Corrosion of brass jets maybe? Anyway Ive been scared to use it every since,

Green gunk in your carbs is a by-product of ethanol in the fuel, not the Seafoam.

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  • 1 month later...
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Quick update: 

1- LiteTek is a great little company. I'm a dumb-ass and ripped one of the fancy o-rings when re-assembling the carbs. An email and a few dollars later and there was another little baggy of the needed o-ring in the mail. No issues, great support. 

2- the bike is back together and running fine. It all started with fixing a coolant leak in the valley of the V-4 and while I was in there, I disassembled and cleaned the carbs, replaced the critical o-rings, cleaned/lubed the throttle cables and grip, checked the valve clearances (all in spec), replaced the plugs, changed the fuel filter and synced the carbs. 

 

Now I just need to wash the poor old girl. I will likely run some seafoam in there for a bit to clean those intake valves.

I also noticed my clutch master cylinder had a mangled seal by the lever, so I ordered a rebuild kit and that will be next. At 23 years old, even a Honda needs a little TLC I suppose.

 

I am also now a pro at removing, disassembling and re-installing the damn carbs since I had to do it like 3 times. PSA: the stupid head shield has to go back on first (removal #2)! Also, make sure the bracket for the choke did not slip out of place un-noticed (removal #3).

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