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Stator / RR test andquestion. Brief details as this is my 2nd run at replacements.

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Hello all hope to get some feedback on a possible dead RR, I've replaced it before, and done a stator rewiring some time ago. 

Stator: VOLT AC tests: rewound 4 years ago. Charging unplugged 18vAC to 45vAC (idle to about 4kRPM, engine hot). When plugged the charge shows only 11v idle and 4v at 3kRPM!! (Main reason the RR is suspect).

Stator: OHM tests, unplugged: 1.5 to 2ohm on either of 3 leads. (!!?)

Wiring: 14AWG wires all around, (crimps found fried last week) crimps were donee about 4 years ago but now tested soldered. (yes de-soldered to run the unplugged tests).

RR; Bought USED GSXR 1K unit,  5 years ago. Gets hot instantly. shows .500 ohms +/- 50 ohms when tested RED to Yellows, or GDN to Yellows unplugged.

Battery: 2 years old.Holds charge overnight, 12.85v. no problems there, it charges with an automatic charger and starts quickly.

SO: I've now cut the wires nearest the RR and will replaceit as it's the older offending part.  HOWEVER, given the Stator readings, apparently not to theOHM spec I've read elsewhere on the forum (.4ohm).  Leads me to believe this component might also be damaged?

I'd appreciate any feedback.

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So, yeah, I tested the RR following the Electrex guide, and it checks out! (guide says FORWARD bias, 6 tests, the range should be .400 to .600 and it's all within .550 

The stator AC volt is supplying 18 to 45v UNPLUGGED, but it drops to 11v plugged into the system. Battery is good, charged and tested. What gives!??  (here's some photos, i tested the other RR for a friend, just for kicks, he had discarded it. Yes we have a local VFR riders club. 

test.png

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vfr club.jpg

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I think your stator is toast mate.

I check mine plugged in to get 50 volts AC at 5000rpm.

Once the stator to RR connection fails, it can cuse stator failure very quickly.

Why I always advice on soldering all joints.

I've used a Yamaha R1 RR with good results. 2 years and 50000kms so far.

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Yeah just spoke with a parts wrecker who said the same thing. in fact he said don't even rewound the stator, get a new one, or good used one from a wreck.  Rewinding just buys you some time. this last rewinding gave me 4 years, that might me good enough for a $60 job. 

I took it out of the bike this aft. just to check, and the windings all seem ok, not burned, just an even dark honey color.  
 

 

 

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Final account: After all new soldered joints in the wiring, removing xenon lights, and attaching the meter to monitor charge thru the day, we find:

13.20 while cruising, variation only to12.90 when stopped, engine idle, with lights and fan on, and up to 14 in high rev (4k+). So, if the stator is going bad, it's going to have to serve until the last volt!.

HOWEVER.  Posting this because I found the source of weak or faulty starts: The yellow wire that activates the starter relay, had only one strand left. invisible as the insulation was all complete. Replaced the spade fem connector etc. voila! quick starts. 

 

 

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Just wanted to update on this RR issue, hoping it's useful to someone, after a year and a bit of sporadic riding. (Some 20 outings of 3hrs average).

A new, off-brand chinese RR has been on duty, but on the last few high-speed outings it was delivering high charge, 14-16volt. @4kRPM. This is a problem
I was several hrs away from home and the nearest shop, so I bought a pair of 80/100 watt headlight bulbs. The Charging dropped by about 1volt. 15V. This would be acceptable, but I wanted to do another change.
This RR comes with a monitoring line, which, under manual instr. I had connected to the furthest wire: the back brake light, the one that's on all the time.  - So on this ride I moved this directly to the POS batt. post. The voltage delivery dropped again 1volt, to 14. This is acceptable. 

So, the lesson here is; This RR isn't made for a high-rev bike, so it lets thru just a bit more voltage than normal. 
(YESIKNOW, I could just dish out big bucks in a new shiny electrex or whatever, but I like fixing things with normal parts bc I'm earning pesos, and having a great time canyon-carving every weekend now).
 

BUT; the biggest lesson is;  Battery; it was suspect and I recovered by doing a few 17volt, 20 minute sessions. Stator; No problem! Altho it was suspect. Wiring; High gauge all around for years now. RR; off-brand, (cheap, about $40.), RR with the extra voltage monitoring line is feeding the whole enchilada just fine for just over a year. 

 

Thanks all! 

ps; Shot of the bike yesterday, one of the seadoos had a dead battery, so we used mine from the bike!! The seadoo uses a big, car-like unit. Soo, if my puny Yuasa can start that thing!... (my batt sits at 12.56v hours after a ride). 


 

 

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Did a similar thing on redslut with the (ok functioning) RR. Had the 2nd headlight switched on permanently as well, used the indicators as running lights, added dlrl leds, Garmin. Apart from being #farkles, they'd use up current/voltage the RR would not need to convert in heat. The oem flatpack RR lasted some 40k miles IIRC.

 

 

 

Latch still ok? :beer:

 

 

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11 hours ago, Dutchy said:

Did a similar thing on redslut with the (ok functioning) RR. Had the 2nd headlight switched on permanently as well, used the indicators as running lights, added dlrl leds, Garmin. Apart from being #farkles, they'd use up current/voltage the RR would not need to convert in heat. The oem flatpack RR lasted some 40k miles IIRC.

 

Latch still ok? :beer:

 

 

 

Latch is still on duty! glad to also inform you last year I hosted a Dutch rider who was crossing North America. Totally bonkers lad!. Ride all day, drink all night, then pass out wherever I told him "that looks like no one will notice you're passed out". HAHA!, we rode to my dad's funeral, partied again, 'cos that's what we do, and I was grateful to have company. Geert Van DenElsen if you happen to believe in a small world.

/Edit; what do you mean 2nd headlight. Weren't that gen in europe both on all the time?
-PS Interested on what model/brand that RR you speak of is/was. Thanks!

 

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The one that came with the new bike I bought in 1997....  Later years the RR became "ribbed".  I did instal a VFRness wiring harnass early on.

 

Eat, work, ride, drink, sleep. REPEAT... :-)

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Update on this, with a new-fangled tip I offer for your review. The knockoff RR is gone. Got a new Shindengen unit with those double Neg and Pos outputs. New battery and new starter relay. Re-did some wiring, new lines direct to battery etc. 

 

Here's the interesting bit, the new relay, I noticed the connectors for the fuse were loose, didn't want to mess with trying to tighten something that will vibrate loose again. We know semi-tight connectors just create resistance, heat up and melt dreams and rides. 
So I crimped a nice fat eyelet connector to the RED wire that goes to the fuse bank, (with an inline fuse! and I will solder it calm down), to bypass every weak point:

Attached this to the HOT post on the relay, the one with the fat wire coming direct from Batt. POS. This wire/crimp deal is never coming loose again!. Yes I could have connected this to Batt +, but I wanted a cleaner install. 
The whole double - + wire enchilada now charges at 14.4v. Yeah it drops to around 12.5 with headlights and fan, braking on. But we know this Stator has to be replaced soon anyway, it's the weakest link r. now on this otherwise new-part charging circuit. This should do well for the next few rides to MX's pacific beaches. 
Thanks again!

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