MarantzManiac Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 Took bike out yesterday... NJ weather in the high 70's... let her warm up couple min... leaving driveway takeoff didn't seem right with rpms... I used her two weeks ago and everything was fine.... shifting into 3rd notice pronounced delay on acceleration then feel it slip in and takeoff. After 10 mins riding the bike warmed up some more and I couldn't reproduce the slippage.... She has less than 10k miles and this has never happened before.... Is it a fluke situation (sticking plates?) or should I be concerned and dig into the clutch? I tried adjusting at lever but had no impact as its hydraulic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raoufhakam Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 with such low mileage, i would take the clutch slave cylinder out and see if its sticking, does the clutch lever action feel any different? heavier/lighter, ticking....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarantzManiac Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 I didn't notice anything different at the clutch lever and the 3rd gear slipping seamed to correct itself.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 I would flush fluid through the master to the slave. Has it ever had new DOT4 in the system? Old DOT4 doesn't correct itself... It turns into jelly and causes problems. You can skip ahead to 8:10 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted April 19, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2016 I agree with Gr8VFR, a good clutch line flush would be the first step. The follow up would be to pull the slave off and clean around it, it is exposed to chain gunk IIRC, and that might stop the piston retracting smoothly and keeping the clutch slightly disengaged. You can also pull the clutch pushrod right out from the left side and clean this and apply some grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 19, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2016 Check the slave & actuator rod, if they are good you will find that the clutch springs will need replaced. It's a common issue, they end up below minimum spec length, so just remove measure & replace with new ones. This can be done with the bike on the side stand, no need to drain oil, but you will need a clutch cover gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted April 19, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2016 Clutch plates don't wear out rather they start to slip because theyget glazed over and contaminated...It's a fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will reach a point intheir life and begin slipping... the first signs happen during WFOthrottle (Wide Fooking Open)... Don't be surprised if you tear a partthe clutch pack and note that the plate thickness is well withinspecifications listed in the shop manual... What you will notice isthe glazed appearance on the surface on the friction plates...You can ante up $240.00 in new clutch parts or you have the option ofinvesting in some sweat equity... deglazing clutch plates ain'tnothing new... no sir... back in the 70s it use to be part of everysavvy rider's maintenance plan... and for some reason that all changeduring the 90s... why fix what you can buy new is the what you hearnow a days... but if your interested in making your clutch bite goodas new then roll up your sleeves and read on... if not get back on thecouch...Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plentyof material to work with... the VFR manual states clutch thicknessin thousands of an inch... I don't a manual handy or I'd list the numbersFirst removed the contaminants with something like Acetone... then layeach plate over a 600 grit black dry emory paper and rotate in acircle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried awayremove too much material... You should end up with a friction platelooks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheckthickness...Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat...make sure they are not warped... the manual does not state a thicknessrange... now removed the contaminants with something like Acetoneand wire wheeled them to erased the blue and also to generally scuffup the surface... you should end up with a dull surface free of Bluemarks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldYeller Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 Make sure the fluid return hole in the master cylinder is returning fluid. When you siphon out the fluid to change it, lift up the small clip and clean out the hole with a small wire. It's tiny. If you leave the cover off, add clean fluid, and use the lever, make sure the bike is covered because it will shoot out of there. If you can see fluid returning, put the clip back. I flushed my master and slave and finally fixed the problem this way. If your clutch engagement right at the end pull is very stiff. This will help out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 3dcycle Posted April 19, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2016 Make sure the fluid return hole in the master cylinder is returning fluid. When you siphon out the fluid to change it, lift up the small clip and clean out the hole with a small wire. It's tiny. If you leave the cover off, add clean fluid, and use the lever, make sure the bike is covered because it will shoot out of there. If you can see fluid returning, put the clip back. I flushed my master and slave and finally fixed the problem this way. If your clutch engagement right at the end pull is very stiff. This will help out. this had this happen to a buddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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