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Rapid Bike Racing Setup (6Th Gen)


HumalogAddict

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Hey guys.

So I bought the RB Racing unit in the original group buy and then life got in the way. During the summer I would always rather ride than tinker and during the winter my bike was always stored far away. But finally this winter I had a garage and some time so all the uninstalled mods were done. Yeah :)

I know, shame on me for waiting this long as the install was super easy except reinstalling the damn o2 sensors (I had a PC3). Finally buying the proper tool for the job made that quite simple though.

Sooo anyways. I have been reading all the threads concerning the module (thanks CandyRedRC46 by the way for all your input on it!) and thought it might be nice to summarize a little and confirm a few settings. I of course understand the autotune takes care of a lot of things and preferences vary but I want to maximize what the module gives me. I don't have the YouTune add-on by the way.

Here is what I found as a good base after the initial 200km:

- Use premium gas

- Switch engine braking to ON and set it to 40%

- Set the minimum RPM tuning to 3400 rpm

- Set the maximum allowed % change to 5%

Since some of you guys have been tinkering with the system, is this all still good?

Oh and for the life of me I can't seem to find any sort of instructions on how to use the software. Does anything exist or is it more of a learn as you go type of deal?

Thanks in advance!!

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Yeah its a pain & a bit butt clenching when you just changed some parameters for the first time & then the bike fails to start !

I also thought my bike had developed a bit more on/off throttle like it had without the RBR & when checking the additional p[arameters, discovered that the last upgrade that changed the look of the GUI also diabled the Engine Brakie control settings & reset them to off :(  When turning it on I note they have added a disclaimer you have to accept to turn it on again, so obviously some issues were noted there !

 

My issue with the RBR not accepting fuel trims was it turns out me being a dim-ass, and hitting apply from that screen, rather than right click add correction. I put it down to the  change of GUI & not having used it for a year before I tried to add some corrections :(  otherwise known as an ID 10 T error = idiot :)

 

I'll raise the not starting when PC attached & see what they say.

 

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Looks like my Dim Sport software can no longer be found after my windows 10 upgrade.

Does anyone have the link to the software anymore?  I couldn't find it on their site.

 

TIA

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On ‎2016‎-‎06‎-‎02 at 11:22 AM, L8Apex said:

Looks like my Dim Sport software can no longer be found after my windows 10 upgrade.

Does anyone have the link to the software anymore?  I couldn't find it on their site.

 

TIA

 the link is https://reserved.dimsport.com

 

From there you can redownload the software through your existing profile. I did it when I switched computers and it worked.

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So I:

- reset the auto-adjusting maps to 0

- set the maximum trim to 5%

- set the threshhold to 3400rpm

- rode the bike in as many various conditions/speeds/gear as possible for a bout 150 miles

 

Results:

- bike is definitely much much smoother than it was in general, pulls hard, etc

- it is having issues around the 4500rpm range, especially in 1st and 3rd gear oddly enough. It feels once again like the fuel is cutting in and out, making the bike buck (stop, go, stop, ...)

- I also had one incident when pulling away from a gas station. Bike started right up but felt very weak, idling around 750rpm. After about a minute the bike died. It started right back up and was fine after that.

 

Here are the screenshots of what I have:

 

autotunning map 1.pngautotunning map 2.png

base map ign 1.pngbase map ign 2.pngbase map inj 1.pngbase map inj 2.png

 

 

Also what do you guys have for the pickup signal settings? This seems like it could help with our hard start issues from reading the user guide. Mine was not set to "automatic regulation enabled".

 

pickup signal.png

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That is weird that you are still having issues now around 4500. The mapping looks fine there, there is a decent amount of timing being added there, but nothing unusual. I would still be questioning fuel.

 

Side note, You didn't touch the correction pump right? Its an accelerator pump like feature, I didn't have any luck with it (Cutting out feeling), so I would leave it off (Disabled). I never messed with the pick up signal and calibration features, so I can look at mine and see if they are similar. 

 

If we don't get this sorted out soon, you're going to have to give Yaman a call and have him or Daniele remote access your bike and look through the settings and see if they catch anything unusual...

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Nope, didn't change any settings apart from the 3400rpm and the 5%. I also didn't activate the engine braking feature. Maybe this would help smoothing out that rpm range?

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I wouldn't mess with the engine braking feature until we get this issue resolved. No need to add in any other variables.

Just to confirm, when you click on correction pump and pit lane limiter, what does it show?

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A couple of things to check.

1. Start bike withcomputer attached & check accuracy of rev counter, mine over reads by 300 rpm everywhere according to the computer readout, this will impact where you make adjustments !

 

2. To much ignition advance will, produce a stumble, I had some of that whilst trying to use a 6th gen ignition map on 5th gen, but on mine it was apparent as a hessitation & repeatable just revving the bike in neutral !  YMMV  but be VERY careful to much advance will destroy your engine !

I'd suggest you pull 2 degrees off at the 4500rpm range +/- one rpm line (i.e. the 4 & 5 degree settings in that area, drop them to 3 degrees) & see if that makes it go away.

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1 hour ago, Mohawk said:

I'd suggest you pull 2 degrees off at the 4500rpm range +/- one rpm line (i.e. the 4 & 5 degree settings in that area, drop them to 3 degrees) & see if that makes it go away.

 

I just checked and RPM seems to be pretty much spot on. So just to confirm what you are suggesting, on the base ignition map for rpm 4200, 4600 and 4900 I should change all the numbers except the 0% of course (3.5, 5, 4, etc for the 4200 line, 3, 5, 4, etc for the 4600 line and so on) to 3 correct?

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1 hour ago, CandyRedRC46 said:

I wouldn't mess with the engine braking feature until we get this issue resolved. No need to add in any other variables.

Just to confirm, when you click on correction pump and pit lane limiter, what does it show?

 

Understood and agreed. Engine braking will be left disabled. He are the screenshots. In case this changes anything in the diagmosis, remember that I do not have the Youtune or the My Tuning Bike upgrades.

 

Thanks!

 

pit lane.png

correction pump.png

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I would not adjust the ignition map just yet. That map was made for your exact bike and it will work great with all other issues resolved. Now your correction pump and pit lane limiter, on the other hand, look very fishy to me.

 

On the pit lane limiter, turn the sensitivity to 0 and turn the RPM all the way down.

 

On the correction pump, turn the sensitivity and duration all the way down. Leave the increase at 0.

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Ignition map has been left alone.

 

Here are the lowest settings I could put on the pit limiter and correction pump:

 

correction pump new.png

pit lane new.png

 

And in case it can help in any way, a screenshot of the status tab while at idle.

 

status.png

 

 

I'll go for a ride later this evening and report back!

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Go for a ride. Report back on how it is. Look through the settings again and make sure that the auto adaptivity isn't doing anything in the below 3400 rpm area again. If it is still acting funny, try clicking disable on the pit lane limiter and correction pump buttons.

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On 07/06/2016 at 0:15 AM, HumalogAddict said:

 

I just checked and RPM seems to be pretty much spot on. So just to confirm what you are suggesting, on the base ignition map for rpm 4200, 4600 and 4900 I should change all the numbers except the 0% of course (3.5, 5, 4, etc for the 4200 line, 3, 5, 4, etc for the 4600 line and so on) to 3 correct?

Yes, pull them back so none say more than 3 degrees.

The simplest way to make mods, is to connect PC, open RB software, do a get map, then do a file save as, name it something useful with details of what you did + a sequencial number.  Now make some mods & do a send map & file save as with a new number (i.e 1st was 101, now 102 etc) so if you want to undo everything, you just open the old saved file & do a send map !

 

CandyRed, this ignition map was NOT made for this bike, its was made for this model & as others have discovered, due to manufacturing tolerances, there isa wide variatio from machine to machine. The description sounds just like what mine did with too much ignition advance !

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Mohawk, your bike did not like the standard ignition map, because that ignition map was specifically made for a 2002-2005 sixth gen VFR800 VTEC and you have a 2000 fifth gen VFR800 non-VTEC, which will have an entirely different ignition timing map at the ECU and totally different timing needs. His bike, on the other hand, will run great with the supplied map, as have at least +25 other sixth gens. You telling him to pull timing to fix the poor running condition would just be a band-aid fix for another underlying issue. These ignition maps are not supposed to be adjusted, when dealing with a stock VFR800 of the correct year. I would seriously not touch the ignition map, without talking to Yaman and Daniele first.

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On 6/6/2016 at 7:30 PM, HumalogAddict said:

 

 

Understood and agreed. Engine braking will be left disabled. He are the screenshots. In case this changes anything in the diagmosis, remember that I do not have the Youtune or the My Tuning Bike upgrades.

 

Thanks!

 

pit lane.png

correction pump.png

 

 

Hey was this ever resolved?

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Sorry CR, but setting the ignition advance to ZERO is the only way to rule it out. The map was made on a Euro spec Vtec, that may or may not be compatible with any individual engine.  So working around it is a bad idea.  Just MO, YMMV

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I saw pulling back the timing as a band aid to cover up whatever the real issue was, which I was thinking was hopefully a weird software setting. There has been multiple US sixth gens running this map with great results. I think the only things that could effect this particular bike's tolerance to this ignition map would be:

A weird setting like correction pump adding extra timing on top of the correct ignition mapping
Incorrect or bad fueling
Carbon build up on the plugs and combustion chamber

Anyways, I hoping he got to the bottom of it by now.

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On 3/14/2016 at 9:09 PM, CandyRedRC46 said:

Good to see that you finally got around to installing the Rapid Bike Racing module.

Quick question, are you using the two factory o2 sensors still or did you go with the "My tuning bike" wide band o2 sensor add on? If you are using 2 o2 sensors. a few things first, before you get too far into tuning, just double check that your o2 sensors are paired correctly by adding 5% fuel at idle, on one pair of cyliders and make sure you see a corresponding drop in the afr of those cylinders. Then try again for the other pair just to double check. Once you are positive that the o2 sensors are indeed paired correctly, set the idle fueling back to 0% again. If you are running one wide band o2 sensor with the My Tuning bike don't worry about everything that I just said.

You are going to have a lot of fun with the Youtune module, it is really cool to see how everything really works via the AFR readout. You can see exactly how the Engine brake control feature works, by eliminating the factory fuel cut.

When you turn off the engine brake control, anytime you roll off the throttle in 4th, 5th and 6th gear, the AFR will go red past 18:1, but when you activate the engine brake control, you can tune the over run fueling in 4th, 5th and 6th gear to be 10:1 through 15:1. I aimed for 14:1, but it is going to vary a little based on gear and rpm etc....

 

I didn't really care for the traction control so I turned it of, but the launch control feature was amazing and the engine brake control really smoothed out the on/off throttle transition.

 

How are you liking the mid range bump in torque from the added ignition timing advance???

Hi, candyred

 

how to see the AFR? in the manual it shows AFR by click my tuning bike under the "status" tab, do i have to install my tuning bike to be able to open the my tuning bike option? 

THANKS!

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Yes I think you need to install my tuning bike to see AFR. Narrow band o2 sensors cannot read AFR directly.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

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