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VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years


Dutchy

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It got some funny looks from folks in the paddock, but I think Eminem made a great song about how I feel about that....

My fellow SP'ers were ok with it as I took my camera gear with me in it :goofy:

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Well.... Since Timmay didnot want the chinesium tankpad, I found another flat black surface :goofy:

 

IMAG8219_1.thumb.jpg.ee81a02ce6a2714e5f9997eeda6c1ec2.jpg

 

(I give it 1 hour tops before my wife starts shouting at me though....:tongue:)

 

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On ‎28‎.‎8‎.‎2017 at 5:26 PM, jeremyr62 said:

Is your VF500 running on stock 15T gearbox sprocket and 43T rear sprocket?

But I recall Dutchy do run a 120/90-18 rear tire, so slightly larger OD than oem 110/90-18

 

Right Dutchy?

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His bike has better top end than mine whatever his rear tyre size. I run 17 inch wheels. I have been messing with 30 and 32mm carbs, swapping engines in and out and changing rear ( and soon front) sprocket sizes but never seen anything like 193km/h. However, if you don't get fixated on top speed my bike is very nice to ride through the gears. It just runs out of puff at the top end.

I will hopefully home in on a good compromise of engine/carb settings/tyre size and gearing. 

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Planning to do a little work on my bikes tomorrow; will check which code # is on the carbs...

 

 

not planning to do any more prolonged top speed/rev runs on the wee one....

That engine gets really really hot....  so hot that when I I stopped after max rev run, the heat from the rear left header caused the chain grease accumulated in the vicinity to start to smoke profusely.  1st time this happend it did scare me a lot... :unsure:

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I have the same 30mm VD41A carbs in my 86 F2 UK model.. If they haven't been messed with they will have a #38 slow jet in all, #95 front main jets, #92 rear mains and a 3JV needle in all.

The non removable pilot jet will be #42.in all.

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Not impossible to find on Ebay but finding a decent one is hard enough. Getting them off can be incredibly difficult IME. I managed to completely ruin a half decent example trying to separate it from the two rear down pipes. I ended up using a sledge hammer beating on a stout piece of wood down through the frame near the rear shock. Ended up splitting the steel of the balance box. The painted one in the picture I bought on Ebay.com about 5 years ago, and it came from the US where the climate seems much more forgiving. Most of the UK/Europe ones are lumps of iron oxide. If you can get it off in one piece it might be worth seeing if it can be cleaned up and welded. Although it looks pretty thin around the holes.

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4 hours ago, jeremyr62 said:

. Getting them off can be incredibly difficult IME.

 

No shit Sherlock!!!  :goofy:

 

 

 

I may have nae money, but I have tools!

IMAG8316.thumb.jpg.85dcd2461869f15e422c9a28ff3f2e13.jpg

 

 

 

The front headers came off with mild leverage and penetrating oil

IMAG8317.thumb.jpg.5dfcb2e81b8e3cf43bcefb6442f6c54e.jpg

 

 

 

but the collector box/rear down pipes..........  

 

I've given up for the day, trying to separate the collector box from the down pipes.   For getting to the rear exhaust studs at the top of the block seems neigh on impossible. Will have a look later (the weather forecast for tomorrow is dreich...). I "folded back" the 4 sections for the collector box that grab the downpipes, took the 2 underneath bolts out that hold the lot to the oilpan.  No amount of hammering makes it move.   The Dutchy mentioned a large tyre lever so that will be next.

Looking into removing the studs at the cilinder head but the book says that that is "difficult" so it probably is...

 

 

Good thing I have an attic....

IMAG8313_1.thumb.jpg.143bf9da394aa0de59588f604b2dbdb1.jpg 

 

But here too, the down pipes appear virtually "welded" to the box.    so I will have a stab at removing the headers.  Maybe.... :unsure::tongue:

 

The whole area around the hole is very thin/brittle indeed....

 

 

 

 

 

As the afternoon progressed,

all I could hear in my head was...

 

 

:goofy:

 

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If you take the rear sprocket cover off it gives much better access to the rear left exhaust clamp nuts/studs. Another suggestion is to try to bend out the 4 tines around which the clamp fits. Not easy but that way you can reduce the clamping force/break the "weld" and get penetrating oil into it. Having said that I tried all these things and it still needed the swingarm removing and a 3.1kg sledgehammer to shift it (and destroy it).

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I've done it both ways...  remove the swingarm.  Sounds like a lot, but in the end WAY easier.  Plus you get to clean/regrease the pivots.   And might as well do the linkage.  

 

And you get to drink after every session.

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Knipsel.JPG.be314e360e5010c3bd76ee201bb04796.JPG

 

 

 

 

I do have a partytent I bought last year for stripping redslut......

 

 

 

I may need this gentleman once more.... :goofy:

 

IMAG5245.thumb.jpg.9f782a1f2481823aaafd238da03c1030.jpg

(and in case you wonder, yes that subframe snapped completely loose in the crash...:unsure:)

 

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I read the VF workshop manual, seems doable to me.

From what I gather, NO special sockets/tools are required right?

I have a wide range of spanners, sockets, allen keys etc. And torque wrenches ofcourse :beer:

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14 hours ago, Dutchy said:

Knipsel.JPG.be314e360e5010c3bd76ee201bb04796.JPG

 

 

 

 

I do have a partytent I bought last year for stripping redslut......

 

 

 

I may need this gentleman once more.... :goofy:

 

IMAG5245.thumb.jpg.9f782a1f2481823aaafd238da03c1030.jpg

(and in case you wonder, yes that subframe snapped completely loose in the crash...:unsure:)

 

If there is anybody on this Board I wished lived near by me, It would be Raymond......

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