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Lowered Pegs, Now How Do You Adjust The Rear Brake Pedal?


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I just put a pair of Knight Design foot pedals on the bike and they are perfect with one exception,,, the brake pedal height!

I now have to pick my foot up off of the road pegs to reach the pedal. Not sure that is exactly what I was wanting!!!

I adjusted the shift lever easily but found it difficult to adjust the brake pedal. I did get a bit of movement by tightening the screw just beneath the rubber bladder on the rear brake cylinder.

Searched the forum and didn't find much, has anyone done this?

Please help!!!

thanks!

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I have not done this on a 7th gen, but did on my 6th. As the pedal goes down in the front, it's raised in the back behind the pedal pivot point. Eventually the back will hit the end of the rod and prevent any further downward adjustment. By cutting off a thread or two from the rod, more adjustment can be had if desired.

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I just put a pair of Knight Design foot pedals on the bike and they are perfect with one exception,,, the brake pedal height!

I now have to pick my foot up off of the road pegs to reach the pedal. Not sure that is exactly what I was wanting!!!

I adjusted the shift lever easily but found it difficult to adjust the brake pedal. I did get a bit of movement by tightening the screw just beneath the rubber bladder on the rear brake cylinder.

Searched the forum and didn't find much, has anyone done this?

Please help!!!

thanks!

have the same ones, same issue. Adjust the nut as much as you can and thats about all you can do without some kind of fabricating. Only a minor irritation at stop lights really, otherwise you're not using it anyways.

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There are actually two adjustments you have to make, one on the master cylinder (as described) and on the brake light switch after you do the master cylinder. You will have experiment to see when it goes off and on properly. I took off as much as I could to make adjustments easier, still a PIA, but worth it.

Mine was a '14 VFR800, but similar brakes.

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I just went through the same issue on my 6th gen. I ran the adjuster all the way out and pulled the rod out so that I could cut a few threads off it. I may have had to looosen the mounting bolts to do this. Then ran it all the way in again until if just clears the lever. Someone suggested using a very small key ring to put in place between the spring and the tab on the lever. This is exactly what I did and it worked great. I found a key ring on a lock at work that was about 10mm in diameter.

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry to revive the thread but I've just installed the Knight Design kit as well and lowered the shifter pedal to compensate. Only issue is that side stand obstructs my foot a bit when attempting to shift. Any ideas to sort this out without cutting the piece of the side stand that sticks out to help kick it into the down position? 

 

Here's an image: 

IMG_0062.JPG

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1 hour ago, Bret said:

Sorry to revive the thread but I've just installed the Knight Design kit as well and lowered the shifter pedal to compensate. Only issue is that side stand obstructs my foot a bit when attempting to shift. Any ideas to sort this out without cutting the piece of the side stand that sticks out to help kick it into the down position? 

 

Here's an image: 

IMG_0062.JPG

 

I fixed mine as follows:  Removed the side stand.  In your photo where the side stand hits the stop (just above the shift lever), drill and tap the sidestand for a 4mm bolt.  A drill press is best for this procedure to keep it square with the work.  Position the hole so that the top of the bolt will be sandwiched between the sidestand and the stop.   Thread in the shortest bolt you can get using some blue loctite.  If the threaded hole is not deep enough, trim some off the end of the bolt.   Reinstall the sidestand.  The bolt head being sandwiched between the sidestand and the stop will not allow it to retract as far as stock.  Using a rat file, file the bolt head down until you get the clearance you would like.  If you ever want to reverse it, just remove the bolt.    Mine has been working fine for the past 20,000 miles. 

 

 

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Thanks Cogswell! Any chance you have an image or two of your finished work? Will get on this asap. 

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So I thought on Cogswell's post and decided to get it done to his spec minus the drill press because I couldn't stabilize the stand as well as I could in a vice. Worked out great and no clearance issues with shifting or rubbing against the beautiful peg. 

 

Here are the photos so that others with the same issue can visualize. 

IMG_0071.JPG

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IMG_0073.JPG

IMG_0074.JPG

IMG_0075.JPG

IMG_0076.JPG

IMG_0078.JPG

IMG_0080.JPG

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On 3/4/2017 at 2:40 PM, Bret said:

So I thought on Cogswell's post and decided to get it done to his spec minus the drill press because I couldn't stabilize the stand as well as I could in a vice. Worked out great and no clearance issues with shifting or rubbing against the beautiful peg. 

 

Here are the photos so that others with the same issue can visualize. 

IMG_0071.JPG

IMG_0072.JPG

IMG_0073.JPG

IMG_0074.JPG

IMG_0075.JPG

IMG_0076.JPG

IMG_0078.JPG

IMG_0080.JPG

 

Yep - that's exactly it.  Sorry I could not give you a pic - I can only check in here occasionally these days.  If you have any concerns about cornering clearance you can raise the stand by filing or grinding the bolt head - remove the washer, etc.  No one will ever notice it.   Well done.

 

 

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