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Vfrness And Stator Opinions Please


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I have a question about the VFRness instal, and would like opinions on the state of this stator I just replaced.

According to the instructions the extra red wire goes to the starter relay. Just to make sure I have it right is this the wire (front right red wire)? (I do have the replacement plug kit) Not sure if I will just remove and replace the red wire or do a full replace of the starter relay plug with the replacement kit.. probably the latter.

post-3161-0-39550400-1426232437.jpg

Below is a picture of the stator I removed (on the left). It is the original stator and had over 50k miles on it. What is your opinion of it's condition? I replaced it with a Rick's stator of course.

post-3161-0-43194500-1426232479.jpg

Thanks for the feedback in advance!

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  • Member Contributer

no need to use the spare plug.

Take a small (jewellers)screwdriver and unhook/remove the one wire from the red plug and stick in the extra red.

Done!

(I simply left the wire I took out/put a little isolation tape at the end.

You oem stator looks fine, but unless you measured output/resistance when it was on the bike you never know for sure.

But if you go on a cost to cost trip, take it (+a spare gasket) with you for piece of mind.

speaking of piece of mind, tighten/give a dab of loctite to the small bolt that holds the seat latch mechanism to the subframe (at the rear, on top)

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I'll take the old one.

I have been reading info from some other sites about stator's and one of the facts that kept coming up is the stator's that dont output as much power last longer, one EE at one of the site says the magnets(in the rotor) are too strong and causing too much heat .

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Thanks for the comments, interesting theory on long lasting stators. I will hang on to the old one for an emergency spare. Hopefully the vfrness will fix the charging problem. Everything is new now in the charging system.

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Well, I have a problem. After replacing the stator and installing the vfrness, I have no power! Nothing, not even a clicking noise.

I not sure what I did wrong. I did install the new starter relay kit as well.

Have been checking all the connections but can't see anything wrong.

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sounds like somethings not hooked up...where are you at? Just go backwards and try to find what is not right, maybe the on off switch on the bar?? do you have lights? After you get her going and want better peace of mind is to upgrade the R/R to a 5th gen, I know that you just put the VFRNESS in... I did the same thing, then upgraded to the 5th gen vfrness after going through a couple of R/R's (one on a road trip in a tiny Wyoming town) then replaced the stator with a low mileage unit and have had no issues since..... good luck, I hope you find the culprit quickly

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Is the plug into the RR ALL THE WAY IN????

I also found that the plug from the stator into the VFRness would click in place but would not hold 100%.

(whiteplug next to 2 black plugs, RHS below the frame spar.

post-8974-0-57789900-1426413718.jpg

(I have since wrapped the wires in black tape)

So I put a narrow tie-wrap around the outside to keep the male/female plug well and truly together

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, finally got the bike running. Had a mechanic out to check it out and he said the old red wire needed to be spliced into the new red wire. Once that was done she fired right up.

I thought the old red wire was just supposed to be taped off.

It's running now, will test it on a ride soon. Inspection is out, so need to get that done first.

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Disclaimer: I have the vfrness on my 4th gen RC36-2 for many many years. Maybe the wiring design has changed.

That said, I went outside and lifted the saddle. It is the red/white wire that is removed (and I taped over). Its slot taken by the beefier red wire from the VFRNESS

post-8974-0-21546000-1427534025.jpg

post-8974-0-16647000-1427533989.jpg

Hope this helps

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Disclaimer: I have the vfrness on my 4th gen RC36-2 for many many years. Maybe the wiring design has changed.

That said, I went outside and lifted the saddle. It is the red/white wire that is removed (and I taped over). Its slot taken by the beefier red wire from the VFRNESS

attachicon.gifIMAG1248_1.jpg

attachicon.gifIMAG1247_1.jpg

Hope this helps

I need to go re check now, I may have it wired wrong

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http://www.wiremybike.com/installation-instructions-1990-1997-vfrness-instructions-p-658.html?osCsid=15638ee8bb07caf7ca1848faa5874ae2

Installation:

Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable.

If the Starter Relay connector is good, there is no need to use the included replacement 4 wire connector and 3 splice wires…save these for future need (common problem with this Gen VFR).

Simply use a jewelers screwdriver, or similar, to depress the locking tab on the existing Red/White wire, and remove it from the connector. Replace it with the Red 12 gauge wire in the VFRness.

Connect the Red terminal to the battery, routing the harness such that it reaches the R/R easily, and provides access to the Fuse if needed.

The fuse holder has a 20 amp fuse included, and a spare to replace the 30 amp installed in the OEM fuse holder. The harness is desgined to run under/in front of the battery, with the Starter Relay and Battery wires coming up in front of the center of the battery.

Connect the VFRness to the R/R, making sure each of the five wires remains in the plug and makes good contact…a bad contact here will cause the charging system to fail. This connector design is prone to the wires slipping out as the locking mechanism, triple check that each wire remained fully in place, especially the Red and Black wires.

On the installation we did, we did not discard the OEM plug and wires, but rather set them aside and protected it from the elements. Follow the original Stator Wire routing with the yellow wires, and connect to the Stator Plug.

Double check that all connections are correct, and test the charging system when complete. Remember to connect the negative terminal of the battery last, to avoid any possible short circuits.

Good luck!

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Thanks for catching that Dutchy. Bike is wired correctly now and on a short test ride was showing 14 volts. Will do a longer ride this weekend hopefully.

I totally misread the red/white wire and got stuck on replacing the red wire with the new red wire.

Hopefully this will fix the charging problem

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Glad it was just that, go for that ride!

But then post some pictures of that ride!

:-)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, took the HER to the horizons unlimited meet in Appomattox, Virginia. Getting as much as 14.7 volts now. She's gone about 500 miles with no charging issues, so that issue is fixed! Thanks for all the help!

There is one possibly connected new issue however. After riding for over 200 miles, it is now blowing the 10 amp fuse repeatedly for the turn signals and horn.

The only thing we can think might have something to do with it is, accelerating hard on a long straightaway. It might not be related but it happened soon after that if not during the acceleration.

Bike is holding a charge fine now, just can't keep horn and turn signals.

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Are the turn signal and horn wires correctly routed? I believe they should be in front of the left front fork. If they are routed behind, the might get jamned at sharp left turns abd get damaged.

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Are the turn signal and horn wires correctly routed? I believe they should be in front of the left front fork. If they are routed behind, the might get jamned at sharp left turns abd get damaged.

Will check this out, thanks! Future son in law is riding the VFR now. I'll have him check. I know we didn't move them, but something may have happened with them on the trip.

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  • 2 months later...
  • Member Contributer

Corrosion in the connectors - causes resistance which causes heat which leads to more corrosion, which causes more resistance . . .

Try some Oxgard on the new components - goes a long way toward keeping corrosion at bay and electrons flowing.

51t5-zAnMAL._SY300_.jpg

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Fwiw, those blue plugs are not factory so someone had been "at it" previously. If they then did not clean/crimp the wire(s) well, it might have "helped" building up resistance.

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  • 1 year later...

I installed the VFRness yesterday on my 1997 VFR and when finished, I was getting charging output readings between 18.5 - 19.0 v (@ 5000 rpm, w/ highbeam on). The bike already has a Ricks stator installed but I'm not sure of the aftermarket R/R's status. The Shop Manual states the readings should be between 13.5 - 16.0v.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks.

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