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Denali Powerhub 2 Fuse Block Installation


Corey

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Thought I would share some installation photos of the Denali PowerHub 2 on my 5th Gen.

I just installed it, so I can't comment much on it. It seems like a quality unit. The premium coated stranded wire they provide is obviously color coded, extermely flexible and very easy to work with. They give you plenty of it so you won't come up short. It's a pretty tight fit through the port for accessory wires, but I managed. I don't know that I will be able to get six sets of wires through there though. The ATM mini fuses fit too tight. Upon removing a fuse whatever was holding the board to the case broke loose (I'm assuming it was silicone???). It didn't affect the unit, but the board now slightly jiggles around inside the case. Also, whoever assembled my unit put the board in crooked and used a little too much silicone as it covered part of one of the fuse connectors. Not a huge problem, but it could have been avoided.

I tried to do a clean install (the units design helps in that department). I kept the wires long just in case I made a mistake on the install or crimping and/or I wanted to move the unit for some reason in the future. I think I achieved what I was trying to do. All in all I am very pleased with the unit and it works so I am happy.

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You have a very clean under-seat area - looks like brand new. Very nice install. What's the purpose of the two un-connected ring terminals near the bottom of the owner's manual?

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You have a very clean under-seat area - looks like brand new. Very nice install. What's the purpose of the two un-connected ring terminals near the bottom of the owner's manual?

Thanks. The two unconnected ring terminals are for my battery tender. It's routed to the rear of the bike, exiting at the helmet lock/seat release. It's just disconnected from the battery at the moment. I still haven't decided if I am going to run it through the PowerHub. I want it to be hot all the time anyway plus it would take up room through the already tight wire port, so I will probably leave it as is.

I have a battery tender cigarette adapter I leave under the seat. Whenever I want to use it, I connect it to the end of that battery tender cable to give it power. It's constant on this way. When I don't want to use it I just disconnect the cable. Kinda makes for a dual use of the battery tender cable as I really only use it in the winter. Most likely I will connect that cigarette adapter to the Powerhub. Just need to get the proper fuse.

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I think running the battery tender through the Powerhub2 would be a good use of it. Just make it a constant circuit, and you can even attach it to a powerlet outlet, and then just use a powerlet to SAE (battery tender) cable and you have a dual purpose outlet. There are some nice locations you can use the rear set powerlet kit for that purpose.

I am going to have a steering stem powerlet switched and a left panel powerlet constant that I use for charging.

Your install looks great

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I think running the battery tender through the Powerhub2 would be a good use of it. Just make it a constant circuit, and you can even attach it to a powerlet outlet, and then just use a powerlet to SAE (battery tender) cable and you have a dual purpose outlet. There are some nice locations you can use the rear set powerlet kit for that purpose.

I am going to have a steering stem powerlet switched and a left panel powerlet constant that I use for charging.

Your install looks great

That's how I also connect my battery tender - using a Powerlet straight off the battery. The only difference is mine's in the steering stem. Either way, it eliminates the wire hanging out somewhere for it.

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Adding a Powerlet and using it as a way to charge the battery is a great idea. I may add that in the future.

One of the reasons I think I may keep the battery tender cable (or future Powerlet) directly connected to the battery is to avoid going through the circuit board on the PowerHub. If the PowerHub ever failed in the field, I would have a way to power some of my accessories and charge my battery if needed.

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Not sure why we motorcyclists need so many fused circuits; maybe for the cell phone, nav, heated grips, battery tender, extra lights, 2way radio, stereo system? Maybe that's why so many batteries, RRs, wiring and stators are failing. My venerable 04 VTR is on it's original battery after 10+ years with only a battery tender hookup where as my VFR keeps playing guessing games with me!

Just a thought

Mac Morgan

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I can promise you, RR failures have nothing to do with additional circuits. The charging system of the VFR is not ideal. They used cheap shortcuts to do many parts of the wiring.

On my bike I have (will have) 2 powerless, a meter, and a power commander. Those are the only additional power draw items.

Its not unreasonable to want bag lighting, heated grips, spot lights and maybe some heated clothing. Its true the stator on the VFR does not produce a huge surplus of power, but all you have to do is breathe on a VFR for its RR to have issues.

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