marriedman Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I know this has been beaten to death on here, but I would rather look a fool on here than not be riding. I have the notes from the last time I did this with my 5th gen, but everything looks different on the 6th gen. I have made great leaps in knowledge and confidence in regards to working on anything mechanical since getting into motorcycles, but I still have no confidence when it comes to electrical anything. Here are my notes from last time: Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Fix first! Then - Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too. Steps: Recharge battery over night - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks - with voltmeter at battery get voltages idle volts should be 13’s (If in the 12’s at idle, try at 1900 rpm) 5000 rpm should be 14’s - Check stator Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off) Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off) Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings Repeat hot. This quick list will only catch the obvious stuff. If you need to dig deeper consult the forum. Here is my problem - I know I need to check the R/R, but where do I stick the probes? There are so many wires and rubber cone shrouds that they all look the same. Same thing with the stator. Where is the connector that I need to test? I looked at so many posts, but none had pictures of a 6th gen. I swear if I can do this, I am going to document everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted July 21, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 21, 2014 Download the manual? I know on the forth gen you can test the R/R but it is a potted unit so it will either work or not work, if you are getting at least 14 volts at the battery while running it is not the R/R, all it does is disapate the extra voltage to ground instead of cooking your battery. I have had that happen twice so I finally put in a voltage gauge. That will give you the best piece of mind.....Except This last Saturday while going over Stevens Pass I had the Voltage drop to under 11 volts so I pulled over and removed the headlght fuse and was able to have 13.3 on the gauge and was able to enjoy my ride over to a concert and my way home on Sunday. Figured out it was the battery that I had put in last month, without charging first, put in a new battery and now no worries 14.5v at 2k Good Luck, just look at the pictures in the Manual since I am proficient with the 4th gen I can't say what you are looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gmtech94 Posted July 21, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 21, 2014 Yellow stator wires are right side at the rear of the gas tank wires come from the left side of the bike into a white connector, check to make sure of the temp of this connector as it will build a fair amount of heat if not clean and tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted July 21, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 21, 2014 For the R/R test readings at idle, 2000rpm and 5000rpm are at the battery posts. Find your battery and you got it. - R/R on a 6th is mounted up front on the right side of the bike. You should be able to find the wires to the connector to the stator from there. And noting -- good battery is the first thing. Do the charge overnite thing and get it load tested. R/R test with a bad battery will give you goofy readings. If you want me to shoot over there and knock it out - text me. Should be 15 minutes tops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tbzep Posted July 21, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 21, 2014 For the R/R test readings at idle, 2000rpm and 5000rpm are at the battery posts. Find your battery and you got it. - R/R on a 6th is mounted up front on the right side of the bike. You should be able to find the wires to the connector to the stator from there. And noting -- good battery is the first thing. Do the charge overnite thing and get it load tested. R/R test with a bad battery will give you goofy readings. If you want me to shoot over there and knock it out - text me. Should be 15 minutes tops. Marriedman, just make sure the half genius shows up instead of the half dumbass! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 OK, spent some time with the bike after dinner tonight. I'm not too bright, so I kept reading the service manual and looking at what I saw in front of me. The service manual pictures suck. Like, really bad. Here is what I got so far: Batter was checked out at Autozone & Batteries+ (just because I felt like it) Battery is good. @ rest - 13.02 @ idle - 12.37 @ 5K - 12.55 R/R: Red/White + Green - 12.4 ~ 12.9 Green + Black Battery terminal - .6 Ohm @ 200 scale Stator Resistance A/B .9 Ohm A/C .7 Ohm B/C .9 Ohm Stator pin to ground .1 on all Stator AC volts A/B 19.2 A/C 19.7 B/C 10.8 The stator one was weird. It would show a ridiculously low number like 6, then jump to 19, then just 1. (nothing) Kept trying to get any ready except for idle but the damn probes kepts sliding and falling out and I couldn't get an accurate reading. So after all that, I'm betting it is the R/R. What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted July 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 22, 2014 Thoughts---- You shouldnt have any reading at all on stator pin to ground (frame) --- .1? Are you sure battery in your multimeter is good. It should read like you holding the two probe in the air..... nada, nothing, infinity. - Jeez, there arent enuff miles on the thing to have a bum stator. -12.55 at 5k point strongly to R/R but the stator to ground read funky you should recheck the stator. On the stator AC volts the output at 5k + is a good indicator. Idle is less important. -- Not eliminating stator yet..... So, you are sure the battery is good? How old is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Don't know the age. It could be the OEM for all I know. Says Honda Yuasa on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted July 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 22, 2014 I replaced the original battery in my '08 this spring. It also said "Honda" on it - the replacement Yuasa didn't. Probably a pretty good chance it's the OEM battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted July 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 22, 2014 I'm kinda with Cogswell, sounds like the factory battery, if so, dump it. - Then recheck stator, and finally redo the R/R volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Showing my inexperience - but if the battery tested good at two places, doesn't that remove it from the troubleshooting equation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted July 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 22, 2014 Showing my inexperience - but if the battery tested good at two places, doesn't that remove it from the troubleshooting equation? You got a point, its goes to kinda belly button thing, battery 7 years old? There may be a manufacture date on it. See if you can find it. - I have seen a couple thread where they said "battery good' and it turned out "battery bad" - I have a loose spare battery we could give a shot with if you would like for a test. You still need to sort out the stator, then the R/R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Well, I decided to just go ahead and buy the battery. I have the money now, so why not? As for the stator, I agree I need to redo those readings. I have another multimeter, maybe it will be better? They one I used last night is the same one we used last year though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Well, I decided to just go ahead and buy the battery. I have the money now, so why not? As for the stator, I agree I need to redo those readings. I have another multimeter, maybe it will be better? They one I used last night is the same one we used last year though. so married man, was it the battery in the end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 Nope. Turned out to be the stator: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/78680-i-thought-they-fixed-this-07-electrical-crap/?p=961074 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Yeah I would have said stator from the results you posted.... I am far from an expert. Someone correct me if the following is wrong... 0.1 to ground? That is Ohms right? You should get infinity. That thing was grounding out... we shouldn't get mixed up with resistance between the three posible combos of yellow wires A-B, B-C and A-C... these three readings have to be between 0.1 - 1.0 Ohms on a digital meter... but from each yellow wire to ground I believe we want 1.0, which is equivalent to infinity on digital meters, (analogue ones are another story)... infinity means the circuit is open, not closed (and that's what we want, we don't want the thing shorting to ground)... open means broken or OFF, disconnected, and a closed circuit means the components in the circuit are all connected. The terms open and closed when referring to circuits can be confusing for electrically challenged people... like me... although I try to work at it... I have to refresh my memory constantly when it comes to 'lectrickity The tricky thing is that one might think we want zero Ohms but we really want infinity. Which in other words means we DON'T want continuity. There is another way to check continuity and on multimeters that's the option that makes a beeping sound. You don't want them yellow critters beeping to ground. And based on the three AC voltaje readings it's grounding out on the third phase... as all three should give the same Reading... you got something like 19, 19 and 10... that 10 is like "one of these kids is doin his own thing, one of these kids aint kinda the same... if ya guess which kid is doin his own thing..." they should all read the same. ...and electronics are not my Forté either but I learnt the drill off by heart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted January 1, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 1, 2015 ^^^^ Yeah I would have said stator from the results you posted.... I am far from an expert. Someone correct me if the following is wrong... 0.1 to ground? That is Ohms right? You should get infinity. That thing was grounding out... we shouldn't get mixed up with resistance between the three posible combos of yellow wires A-B, B-C and A-C... these three readings have to be between 0.1 - 1.0 Ohms on a digital meter... but from each yellow wire to ground I believe we want 1.0, which is equivalent to infinity on digital meters, (analogue ones are another story)... infinity means the circuit is open, not closed (and that's what we want, we don't want the thing shorting to ground)... open means broken or OFF, disconnected, and a closed circuit means the components in the circuit are all connected. The terms open and closed when referring to circuits can be confusing for electrically challenged people... like me... although I try to work at it... I have to refresh my memory constantly when it comes to 'lectrickity The tricky thing is that one might think we want zero Ohms but we really want infinity. Which in other words means we DON'T want continuity. There is another way to check continuity and on multimeters that's the option that makes a beeping sound. You don't want them yellow critters beeping to ground. And based on the three AC voltaje readings it's grounding out on the third phase... as all three should give the same Reading... you got something like 19, 19 and 10... that 10 is like "one of these kids is doin his own thing, one of these kids aint kinda the same... if ya guess which kid is doin his own thing..." they should all read the same. ...and electronics are not my Forté either but I learnt the drill off by heart. ^^ You want continuity between the legs and no continuity between each pin and ground, the same effect as you holding the probes of the meter separate in the air. - MM meter was showing something like (I dont remember exactly) - 1 - on the read out on the infinity or no continuity test, that was part of the confusion, so we cleared that up when I payed a visit. --- From memory I think all legs were open circuits on the test. Our brain fart? I assumed MM did the AC test and also assumed it was good. So with a good AC and other stator tests, and a low DC V output test while running points to a bad R/R. So R/R replaced and retest still showed the low DC v output. Hmmmmm - some head scratching.... and well, retest the stator. Results? One stator leg AC test toasted and wouldnt climb more than 30ish ACV. Bleah. Bad stator, good R/R. We could have saved the price of an R/R. -- So this is why "the drill" is called "the drill"! You need all the information to figure out what is going on in your charging system. (No labyrinth test flowchart required) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted January 1, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 1, 2015 Also do yourself a favor: get some clip leads for your meter so you have your hands free to operate controls, and hold onto your beer while you work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 Same ol same ol , just hope the 8th gens with it's computer control R\R gives longer service life . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 1 ohm to ground = shorted stator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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