Corey Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 I'm sure many of you are already aware of the FH020AA rectifier / regulator upgrade. I just thought I would share a couple photos of my rectifier / regulator upgrade on my 5th Gen (1998). I went from the stock RR to a Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet RR (Super Kit) from Jack at roadstercycle.com. I can't say enough good things about the kit and Jack himself. He was very nice on the phone and via email correspondence. He answered all my questions and even customized the order for me. Best part is my bike is now running a steady 14.4v. The installation was very straight forward. I just made sure to take my time with it. I really focused on trying to make it clean and tidy. I think I achieved what I was wanting. I had to drill the mounting plate to orient the RR the way I wanted. I was originally going to use a Metri-Pack 630 connector from the RR to the stator, but I decided to use the heat shrink bullet connectors Jack included with his kit instead. I'm glad I did. I think it will make it easier if for some reason I need to make a field repair and/or add a new stator in the future. I chose to crimp instead of solder. I used a ratchet crimp tool and feel confident that it did the job right. All in all I think it was well worth the cost and time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted February 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 2, 2014 I have found the FH020aa to be a quality part and have used it on a couple of local repairs. My personal preference is to use the Metripack connectors to the stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted February 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 2, 2014 Nice! I found Roadster while looking up suppliers for the connectors. I already had the previous iteration of that R/R (FH012), but was replacing the stator, and he was willing to sell me the terminal ends to replace in my connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 2, 2014 THANKS for sharing and WELCOME ... I have the SH775 on mine ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Texfoto Posted March 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2014 Anyone know the difference between this and the on from wiremybike? Preferences? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2014 Anyone know the difference between this and the on from wiremybike? Preferences? Wiremybike sells Ricks products. Roadstercycle is the Shindengen FH020a R/R. Pics of that are above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Texfoto Posted March 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2014 Anyone know the difference between this and the on from wiremybike? Preferences?Wiremybike sells Ricks products. Roadstercycle is the Shindengen FH020a R/R. Pics of that are above. Is there any difference between the rectifiers?Also, anyone have a concern about the vertical position of the Shindengen? The stock is horizontal. Not sure if airflow of the bike from front to back cools the rectifiers of if this is a non-issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2014 The MOSFET R/Rs run cooler so its a non issue. Differences If you are a plug and play only guy, do the Ricks If you can do minor wire work, go Shindengen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facemonster Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Corkey, did you clip the 3 and 4 p connectors and wire straight to them with the upgrade? If so what was your wiring pattern? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Corkey, did you clip the 3 and 4 p connectors and wire straight to them with the upgrade? If so what was your wiring pattern? I removed the old rectifier/regulator, then cut off the 3-pin connector coming from the stator and used the heat shrink bullet connectors included with the Super Kit to directly connect to the new FH020AA rectifier / regulator (no specific order/pattern is needed, just connect the 3 yellow wires from the stator to the 3 yellow wires from the rectifier/regulator). I then sealed up the old power connector and ran the positive and negative wires (with included in-line fuse) from the FH020AA rectifier / regulator straight to the battery. You can see both the heat shrink bullet connectors and the sealed up power connector in the photo on the right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facemonster Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Thanks, I am going to try and get to that project this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Is it (the RR) a shunt or series type? Even though the RR will run cooler (if it's a shunt type), the stator will be putting out full current all the time ( actually a tiny bit more) Correct? J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted April 1, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 1, 2014 The FH line are shunt type regulators. Yes, you are correct about stator output being full all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus20170 Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Can someone please tell me the difference between the Ricks MOSFET unit and Jack's as it would seem that Jack's goes back to the battery but Rick's doesn't. I am not sure if this is required but with the amount of problems I have had I want to do this right. I also see on Jack's website that there is the FH020AA MOSFET type but now the newer SH775 Series type both from Shindengen but on the Shindengen website it shows the values between them being different in the Current (Aave) * 1 column although I have no idea what these values mean. I am also wondering if I use Jack's units will this affect the warranty on either a Honda or Ricks stator by cutting off the block connector. My rewound stator plug burnt on one side and after using a temporary measure of bullet connectors from the stator to reg/rec I found the wires got really hot, hot enough to melt the bullet connectors to the wires. Please help me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted November 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 2, 2014 Hope this helps . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus20170 Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Thanks Switchblade. This is the reg/rec I currently have that I'm a bit confused as the site states this is a Series reg/rec http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR110.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted November 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 2, 2014 Thanks Switchblade. This is the reg/rec I currently have that I'm a bit confused as the site states this is a Series reg/rec http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR110.html It looks hardy !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus20170 Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Im confused over whether this is what I should get or should I go with the FH020 instead as this went bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ChasingNolan Posted September 29, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 29, 2015 Corkey, thanks for this post. After doing lots of research on this subject, I too decided to go w/ the FH020AA super kit from Roadstercycle. This post was helpful as I basically just duplicated your installation. Now I'm getting a nice steady 14.3V and I won't have to focus so much attention on the "worrymeter" (voltmeter) anymore. The first thing I did after I purchased this bike was install a voltmeter. Once I noticed some really irregular voltages with the OEM R/R I made the switch. Thanks, CN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Another here praising Jack @ roadstercycle. Great service Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Glad the post was helpful. My Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet RR has been going strong with no issues every since the install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer pluseb0 Posted December 11, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 11, 2015 I just installed my new OEM stator and Jack Roadstercycle Super Mosfet Kit, I will post some pic's of the R/R/ mount I modified using the existing OEM one. My question is, since I will be running the ground and positive directly to their respective locations and NOT using the OEM connector, how are folks handling the OEM R/R connector? Leave it there with liquid tape or something else? Cut off old connector on OEM R/R and connect new R/R using OEM connector? Just looking for how others (besides this post) are handling the install. Thanks, +eb0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 In regards to the OEM power connector, I just sealed it up with electrical tape and left it alone. You can see it in this photo. I figured if I ever needed to swap out my Shindengen FH020AA R/R in the field with an OEM R/R (I don't think this will ever be the case but...) all I would have to do is crimp the three yellow wires from the stator to the OEM R/R and then connect the OEM R/R to the OEM power connector. This is why I always carry 3 spare crimp/heat shrinkable bullet connectors like the ones that came with the Super MOSFET FH020AA Kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ChasingNolan Posted December 11, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 11, 2015 In regards to the OEM power connector, I just sealed it up with electrical tape and left it alone. You can see it in this photo. +1 on that. I did the same. I have a lot of confidence in the reliability of the super mosfet kit so I'm not carrying spare parts, but that seems like a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer pluseb0 Posted December 11, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 11, 2015 Thanks for the feedback Corkey, yeah I was thinking I would do something similar. thanks ChasingNolan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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