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'99 Headlight Bulb Options


bmart

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One high beam went out the other day. I ran by the local auto parts store and it seems that the honda bulb has alignment tangs different (wider) than the standard H4 bulb. My hunt began. I can't resist a good problem.

From what I can gather:

Originally it was 34901-MS2-671 45/45W

This has been supersceded by 34901-MS2-672 45/45W.

Some seem to install H4 bulbs of wildly farying types by cutting off the two lower alignment tangs. i'm not looking for more light, but would like to avoid the $25/each pricetag on the Honda part when the H4 is only about $6.

I did a quick search for the new p/n without luck so I thought I'd make a new post.

What have others done?

Thanks!

A few things I found:

http://stwiki.notonthe.net/twiki/bin/view/ST13/HeadlightReplacement

http://www.mfgsupply.com/snowmobile/snowel/snowheadlight/01-6260h.html and only $7 and 60/55W

http://www.hyperparts.com/wc.dll?ctwp~getxref~1001~1002~1~probrand~1~Honda~34901-MS2-672 $6 but I verified that it is not the Honda bulb, but aftermarket, good or bad.

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Charlotte Honda where I used to buy them @ a really decent price,the H4 work fine just have to bend back one tab a five year old could do it.

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As both Timmy and Norton said, bend the non-Honda tab and fit the bulb. but before you do, decide if you want to upgrade the bulb quality (and the light it puts out) or go the cheaper bulb route.

Not only are the quality bulbs 3-4 times more expensive, they also seem to blow out about every year for me. but I am frequently riding after dark and would rather have a good headlight than a cheap one.

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I can't very well go around asking for a five year old, now can I... :)

I never ride at night. no need for me. It sounds like an H4 with bent or cut off tabs is the way to go.

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if you rarely to never ride at night then go with the cheap ones from Walmart


GE I think they are.

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I tried the Silverstars, but after 3 or 4 sets, I got tired of changing them every year. I went back to the cheap GE H4's and while they aren't quite as good as the Silverstars, the 55/60 watt GE's are better than the 45/45 Honda bulbs.

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I usually run one yellow and one white bulb. Cornercarver hates it, so it must work.

38704_1569938008100_5951088_a.jpg

I actually don't mind it.

If I cant talk my sweeper into doing this then I just count the bikes behind Timmy to make sure we haven't dropped anyone...now if all 6 bikes ion the group were doing this then I would have to count all over and that would take my attention from erratically changing lines and destinations mid ride.

I personally would not go with a 100/80 for example but I think if you keep the low beam in the 50w range you can move to an 80 or 100 for high.

It may help that the rear of my bike is raised and the front dropped but I hardly ever have cars flash to let me know they think I am too bright.

I don't know if a 100w halogen will cause your headlight ass'y to overheat if used in slow moving or warm ambient conditions but almost anything is better than the 45w/45w bulbs that Honda installed from the factory.

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I tried the Silverstars, but after 3 or 4 sets, I got tired of changing them every year. I went back to the cheap GE H4's and while they aren't quite as good as the Silverstars, the 55/60 watt GE's are better than the 45/45 Honda bulbs.

Silverstars blow chunks for lifespan. I got tired of paying the extortion pricing on them when they would prematurely fail. And not just in the bike, in the Family Truckster as well.

No more!

Cornercarver said:

I personally would not go with a 100/80 for example but I think if you keep the low beam in the 50w range you can move to an 80 or 100 for high.

The 80/100 lights would probably melt the headlight plugs/wiring and maybe even the housing.

I had a headlight plug melt on me just using the 55/60 H-4s, it may have been due to corrosion in the socket, because the other one was fine.

But still, you're looking at DOUBLE the wattage of the factory bulbs, and those headlight wires are hella skinny.

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I figured the same. Probably stick with 60W or less. Thanks all.

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yeah I just ordered some from the UK to try ...

From reading some of the posts on here and looking at the spec of your OEM bulbs, the wiring on UK/European VFRs is different.

The H4s on my 98 VFR have 3 tangs which fit perfectly into the Honda connector.

I use Osram Nightbreaker Plus and have not had any issues with them blowing.

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I have Sillverstars on my car and they seem to be lasting long enough.......maybe they improved them throught the years??

One will also have to consider that bulbs tend to be subjected to more shock and vibration from the road and the engine on motorcycles than on cars, so that does not help with the lifespan on them. I also make it a point that I only buy marker. stop and signal light bulbs marked as heavy-duty/long life (they have more filament supports inside the bulb), otherwise they will also blow prematurely.

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yeah I just ordered some from the UK to try ...

From reading some of the posts on here and looking at the spec of your OEM bulbs, the wiring on UK/European VFRs is different.

The H4s on my 98 VFR have 3 tangs which fit perfectly into the Honda connector.

I use Osram Nightbreaker Plus and have not had any issues with them blowing.

Yes, Euro-spec Hondas use regular H4s, without modifications. However, some models sold in Europe have only one headlight illuminated on low beam.

Ciao,

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  • 1 month later...

Would running a 60/55W bulb drain the battery?

I just replaced my headlight bulb which was 45/45W with a 60/55W (only wattage they had at the part store).

I rode the bike the next day - fine (brighter light). The next morning - the ignition gave me one crack before dying, after that - no electrical, no lights, not even the instrument cluster lit up.

Could it have been the bulb that drained the battery?

I did check the fuses before I changed the bulb (all fine) - perhaps I put them in wrong but I doubt it. Not sure what would cause the battery to drain so fast..

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Would running a 60/55W bulb drain the battery?

I just replaced my headlight bulb which was 45/45W with a 60/55W (only wattage they had at the part store).

I rode the bike the next day - fine (brighter light). The next morning - the ignition gave me one crack before dying, after that - no electrical, no lights, not even the instrument cluster lit up.

Could it have been the bulb that drained the battery?

I did check the fuses before I changed the bulb (all fine) - perhaps I put them in wrong but I doubt it. Not sure what would cause the battery to drain so fast..

The bulb itself would not do that, but the higher wattage could have aggravated an existing wiring problem.

I've been running a set of cheap 60/55 Philips H4 bulbs for over 2 years now with no problem. Just had the headlight assembly out a couple weeks ago (to change some dash bulbs), and the wiring/connectors look good. Gave the connectors a squirt of DeOxit, blew the dirt out, and put her back together.

Good chart on bulb types: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/bulb_types/bulb_types.html

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  • 3 years later...
On 11/20/2013 at 9:09 AM, phoenixfire said:

Would running a 60/55W bulb drain the battery?

I just replaced my headlight bulb which was 45/45W with a 60/55W (only wattage they had at the part store).

I rode the bike the next day - fine (brighter light). The next morning - the ignition gave me one crack before dying, after that - no electrical, no lights, not even the instrument cluster lit up.

Could it have been the bulb that drained the battery?

I did check the fuses before I changed the bulb (all fine) - perhaps I put them in wrong but I doubt it. Not sure what would cause the battery to drain so fast..

 

So - resurrecting an old post here - hopefully it catches some attention. I just did the same thing with my bike - replaced the old 45/45s with some Philips 50/65s. Road to work - just fine. After work, she struggled to started, but did. I pulled up into the drive way, and (luckly) died right there on the spot. Any suggestions? It was posted that the bulbs wouldn't do it, but it seems somewhat coincidental. However, I did just get the bike not too long ago, and I don't know if the battery is still stock...probably should check that...

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I installed Piaa 55/60 W about a year ago and immediately had problems with my 5+ year old battery going dead after driving in traffic. With a new battery things are fine.

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If you don't know for a fact that your battery is healthy (age is an unreliable indicator) that is the place to start. 

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