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Fork Service ?


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At 16k I need to replace the fork oil. While I am in there I might as well install heavier springs. Anyone 'been there done that' and have specific info? (stock spring rate, replacement springs, vendors, etc.)

Thanx,

Mark

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Right now I do not want to be down for several weeks but the oil needs to be changed. I can change oil myself in a day for not much money. So I am thinking change oil and replace with heavier springs now and have him revalve in the winter.

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I have to confess, that's the only thing I haven't done on my bike yet, The forks still seem to provide good damping, but I suspect it's just because I just got used to the slow degeneration of performance on them through the years, that I never noticed the difference.

I think I can handle a simple fork fluid change on mine, as my 4th gen has handy drain bolts near the fork leg bottoms.....but I'm always wondering if a bushing/seal changeout is always a requirement or strongly suggested, which makes it quite a bit more complicated a job for most of us......

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Seals and bushings are not always necessary...but I would suggest buying them to have available should you need them. No reason to have to wait additional days for parts to arrive with the bike torn down. If you don't need them you will have them for the next service.

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I have to confess, that's the only thing I haven't done on my bike yet, The forks still seem to provide good damping, but I suspect it's just because I just got used to the slow degeneration of performance on them through the years, that I never noticed the difference.

I think I can handle a simple fork fluid change on mine, as my 4th gen has handy drain bolts near the fork leg bottoms.....but I'm always wondering if a bushing/seal changeout is always a requirement or strongly suggested, which makes it quite a bit more complicated a job for most of us......

Before I did my fork swap (SP1), mostly copied from here ( with some minor changes ) I have to admit, the most I ever did was change the oil and a few other minor bits, no garage before. This included making my own brake lines (!). Trust me, if you have the manual and read through lots of threads here and on some other bike/fork specific forums, its not actually that difficult. You need to make sure you have enough time, I did mine over winter and had no stress.

Can we do it, yes we can ;-)

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Right now I do not want to be down for several weeks but the oil needs to be changed. I can change oil myself in a day for not much money. So I am thinking change oil and replace with heavier springs now and have him revalve in the winter.

Sounds like a good plan Mark. Also Jamie (if you use him) can turn around your job much quicker in the winter when he's not as busy. Spring I think is his busiest time...

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I think I can handle a simple fork fluid change on mine, as my 4th gen has handy drain bolts near the fork leg bottoms.....but I'm always wondering if a bushing/seal changeout is always a requirement or strongly suggested, which makes it quite a bit more complicated a job for most of us......

Fork oil changes are easy...even I can do them. But I would recommend taking them out to do so you can drain out the oil and measure by height the correct amount of oil to put back in. You don't need the seals and bushings unless you take the forks apart. I just remove the cap, spring and spacer and then turn the forks upside down to drain. After 161K km I probably should do a more thorough service. But I am somewhat lazy and I feel good enough changing the fork oil only.

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Look at you Mr penske...

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

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I just ordered a Penske 8983 for the rear. Thinking I will replace the fork oil and install a 1.2 spring and call the front good for now.

How much was the Penske?

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Pointless just changing the front fork springs and fork oil, you need to re-valve the front damping at the same time, the standard front damping is sh*te.

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Over here no one seems to know anything about the VFR1200!!! Having a hard time just finding springs...much less someone that has experience revalving.

Are you suggesting that I should just change the oil and not worry about being undersprung at this time? Therefore new oil would be better than new oil and the correct spring rate.

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Finally found some springs that should work. New oil and correct springs certainly should be substantially better than worn out oil with substantially undersprung springs. Will know next week.

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1.1kg from Sonic Springs. They did not have a spring for the VFR 1200 but we are gonna fab a spacer. Once we get that sorted it should be easy for any other VFR 1200 owner to take advantage. The Penske shock is coming with a 23 kg. Hope it is not to stiff. (don't think I have ever said that before)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Having to fab another spacer. Also, the 1.1 was not quite right so I have a 1.2 coming. Should have it done by Friday or Monday depending on when the springs arrive.

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The 1.1 was still not quite stout enough for the big ole bike and my big ole arse!

Due to the spacer problem, the 1.1 spring had the equivalent of full preload PLUS another 10mm and still to much sag.

1.2 should be just right! Hopefully the valving can handle it.

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