itgbudeev Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 So i know you all know about it, but my google-Fu is seriously lacking. symptoms: start bike, standard high warm up idle, as temp rises, so does RPM, maxing out at about 4000 RPM. it stays there for a long time. i haven;t let it run for long enough to see if it drops down. today i road it that way for about 3 minutes, stopped at the corner store for a few, started it back up and it was fine. Am i correct in thinking it is something called the Fast Idle Wax unit? i have seen that people say that this can cause this problem, but i haven't actually seen anything written about how to fix it, or where it is, or what it even does. does anyone have any write ups on what to do for this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 have you tried adjusting the idle by hand? i pretty much have to adjust it up when i first start it and then back down after it gets warmed up. if you are already past that, maybe turn the wax idle screw a half turn out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itgbudeev Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 should have mentioned that but wanted to keep it semi brief. when it did it today, i turned the idle screw for a LONG time, finally got it down to an acceptable level, shut it off, went inside, let it sit for like 15 minutes, then my buddy showed up so i went to start it to head out and it cranked and cranked and cranked. wouldn't start unless i gave it throttle by hand then died immediately. i had to crank the idle screw back in and it caught and ran just fine. it did it again in the afternoon (up to 4k) and i didn't touch anything, road it for 3-4 minutes, shit it off, 10 minutes later, start up, normal idle. pretty sure its not the idle screw. What is this Wax unit, where is it, and how do i clean it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Underneath the tank, nestled in the fuel injection rack, connected to the cooling system. It's the hot coolant that causes it to function, and yours is not working right. I'm not sure if it can be cleaned, or must be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Sounds like there are two people with wax unit problems. Shouldnt have to mess with idle at all if system is working right. The wax unit is like a solenoid, and has wax inside, just replace if suspect. I think Kaldek has a video showing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itgbudeev Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 Alright, thanks for the confirmation everybody. Found the replacement part for $43.80, so not a huge deal. i'd rather buy it and replace it so there is no chance of me messing it up and being stranded for a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Egg on Leggs Posted March 24, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2013 I have had this happen and it was the linkages that were binding, a good douche of WD 40 sorted it. I now, as a matter of habit, soak the FI system with lubricant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itgbudeev Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Underneath the tank, nestled in the fuel injection rack, connected to the cooling system. Well i got the replacement part finally. lifted the tank and the air box yesterday to have at it. "Nestled" would be like me saying swimming the English channel is a quick Sunday Dip. Holy crap its buried in there under a mess of vacuum lines and fuel rails etc. i didn't have enough time to commit to it then so i closed it all back up and plan to dive into it this weekend. Any tips or tricks for getting in there or for removing all of those things while still being able to get it back together correctly? I have a feeling there is going to be a lot of cursing involved with this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 masking tape to label and number each hose as you remove it, and where it attaches to. 1-1 2-2 3-3 etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 I replaced my Thermostat last year. You will need to remove the throttle boddies to get to the Idle unit (wax thingy...) This video is spot on. I had zero issues removing the throttle bodies because of this video. It was actually quite a bit easier than i thought and faster! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YVitQLXQ5E&feature=player_embedded#! '> This was made by a member here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRMAN Posted November 20, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 20, 2014 The idle adjust screw is missing of my bike,dunno what clown was at it last,anyway will the bike run ok without it? if the wax block set up is running ok,don't suppose there is any need to ever bother with it? the idle was dropping away down and the bike was dying out once warmed up.my mechanic mate has it adjusted now as best he can,I wonder is it a big job or expensive just to replace the idle screw set up? This bike looked great,but once we started getting into it,to service it etc. a lot of annoying issues have cropped up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted November 20, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 20, 2014 I'm not sure I'm tracking with the issue - you mentioned that the idle screw is missing but also mention that your mechanic has it adjusted as best he can. How was he able to do that? If the idle screw is missing from the T.B., it will run fine - it just won't idle as it should (or at all). On your 5th gen the idle is adjusted through the small hole in the frame (different from a 6th gen with the external cable adjustment). If parts of your throttle body are missing the best route would likely be to procure another T.B. from a wrecked bike. There are usually a decent number available on ebay. Photos would be helpful if you have 'em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRMAN Posted November 20, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 20, 2014 I haven't the bike here to take photo's, he found the idle adjustment screw lying inside the fairing somewhere,he reckoned someone had likely unscrewed it too far at some stage,then tried adjusting it with pliers or something,he said he got the idle warm idle adjusted,I don't know how, he will see how she goes 2moro from a cold start, I don't know if it's possible to just replace that part alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRMAN Posted November 20, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 20, 2014 well the bike is running perfect whatever way he sorted it,I need to adjust the throttle grip though,there is too much play in it for my liking,is it adjusted by one of the cables or do I need to adjust both? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRMAN Posted November 25, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 25, 2014 Here are a few pics of the problem,the starter valve housing is broken where the idle adjust screw used to screw in. I'm not sure if I can buy this part of the starter valve assembly separately,from the parts fiches I've looked at I think hopefully I can,it's not easy finding it though,suppose I'm the first to ever have this issue,just my luck. The idle isn't right and it's impossible to adjust without this adjusting screw working,I'm going to have another go at it 2moro,and try balancing the starter valves again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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