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Oil Pan Replacement!


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Has anyone replaced a 6th Gen Oil pan, I stripped the plug. I stuck an oversize plug in there and now that's leaking. So I ordered a replacement pan, plug, washers etc, I've never done this job so I'm a bit intimidated.

Any info would be awesome!

Jim C

tincan1@gmail.com

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If you don't have a shop manual you can get it in the downloads section. It's too bad the headers have to come off to do this job - it would be a lot quicker otherwise. New gaskets are called for when re-installing them. An inch pound torque wrench is helpful for re-installing the header and pan bolts - both thread in to soft aluminum so you don't want them stripping out. Some anti-seize on the header bolts will help in removal should they need to come off again in the future. It's not all that bad a project - just follow the steps and take your time - you should be able to do it no problem.

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I have the shop manual, you really have to remove the headers huh? Well Since there isn't a Real Gasket I'll be using permatex.

Thanks folks.

Wish me luck!

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Surely it's easier to just take the old pan off and have the oil drain plug hole re-drilled to a new size bolt? Honda will pillage you on the price for a new sump, I'm sure.

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I hear you, sometimes its best to buy fresh components you are sure will work than deal with the additional down time from taking the parts in to modify/fix.

Best of luck!

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Thanks, I'm just going to stick with stock components. I think the only things that arent't OEM are the brake pads, oil filters, air and chain.

Thanks for all the ideas! After Christmas the tear apart commences!

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Put a Fumoto valve on it this time and don't ever worry about doing it again. :ph34r:

Do you have the size or model number of Fumoto valve? 12mm, but not sure of thread pitch and style, nipple, no nipple, etc. works best.

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Put a Fumoto valve on it this time and don't ever worry about doing it again. :ph34r:

Do you have the size or model number of Fumoto valve? 12mm, but not sure of thread pitch and style, nipple, no nipple, etc. works best.

It is an F109. I can't seem to get the pictures upload to this thread so take a look in my gallery if you want to see a picture.

You have to trim the little aluminum tang that sticks down from the pan though so as you turn the valve it clears for full rotation.

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Put a Fumoto valve on it this time and don't ever worry about doing it again. :ph34r:

Do you have the size or model number of Fumoto valve? 12mm, but not sure of thread pitch and style, nipple, no nipple, etc. works best.

It is an F109. I can't seem to get the pictures upload to this thread so take a look in my gallery if you want to see a picture.

You have to trim the little aluminum tang that sticks down from the pan though so as you turn the valve it clears for full rotation.

Thanks for the info. I'll have to think about it. Although it would probably never happen in a million miles, that tang is to protect the oil plug from a direct hit from a rock or other hazard I'm thinking.

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Thanks for the info. I'll have to think about it. Although it would probably never happen in a million miles, that tang is to protect the oil plug from a direct hit from a rock or other hazard I'm thinking.

True, although it is under and behind the fairing so I think that would protect it. Also, if you happened to bottom out, the headers would hit first.

I also put a small hose clamp around the valve just to be sure it doesn't somehow open on it's own. I have had one on my truck now for 10 years without any issues (and no clamp).

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It is a cool farkle that I may not be able to resist...

I was just thinking the same thing!

Ciao,

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I had to change my oil (at SebSpeed's place) on my trip to NY in Oct, and Seb handed me a large ratchet to use on the drain bolt. Usually I use a smaller size, and that was the only time I felt like I was close to over torque-ing the plug. Doesn't take much to tighten it, so don't get a long handle wrench. Or go ahead and get the Fumoto. I may do this eventually. Put one on my truck a few months ago. Based on my limited experience, the basic one without the nipple would be fine on the VFR.

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Based on my limited experience, the basic one without the nipple would be fine on the VFR.

I think the nipple would cause the valve to hang down lower than you would want on the VFR. I had to do the nipple-less valve on my truck as well because it would place it too close to the exhaust pipe. In general though, I am a fan of nipples. :biggrin: I put one on my GF's car and figured I could always hook a hose to it and drain it directly into a 5 qt jug. Then I wouldn't have to mess with pouring it out of the drain pan and into some sort of container for disposal.

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I'm figuring this would be the one for a '98 VFR..?? I'm always concerned about stripping the threads since it's so easy to over tighten the plug. So, this seems like something I should have. I'm considering ordering 2. 1 for the bike & 1 for the truck.

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I remember reading about these a few years ago on a Subaru forum, however one concern that came up was that the threads of the Fumoto stuck up past the oil pan, so when the oil was drained, there would always be a level of engine oil left at the bottom.

Is this cause for concern?

I'm not sure if I would buy something like this, as I have not had any problems with drain bolts. I just press up on them as I spin them, and pull back quickly once I feel the end of the thread "hop", and get minimal oil on me. Mind you the ability to stick tubing on it and direct it right into a jug would be wicked nice, I sometimes make a mess transferring the oil from the drain pan into portable jugs.

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I had that concern about the threads too. Then I forgot about until you brought it up...

I don't actually have one in the VFR yet, just the Dakota.

I'm fairy certain the vast majority of Hondas have the same 12mm X 1.5 pitch drain bolt. Check out the Ron Ayers "Where does this part fit" feature of the fiche.

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I remember reading about these a few years ago on a Subaru forum, however one concern that came up was that the threads of the Fumoto stuck up past the oil pan, so when the oil was drained, there would always be a level of engine oil left at the bottom.

Is this cause for concern?

The only way to know for sure would be to pull the pan see how far the threads protrude (or do careful measuring). The threads of the pan stick down from the pan some, so I assume that would help.

Every automotive engine I've ever pulled apart seems to have little pockets with oil sitting in them in multiple spots. There is no way to get every bit of old oil out of an engine from the drain plug, so I assume if there is a couple of ounces left in the pan, there isn't an issue. If there is a quart left in there, that is a different story, although I don't think that would be the case.

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