Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted September 21, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 21, 2011 You might be able to temporarily fix the starter motor by taking it apart and cleaning it out. Worked for me a couple times years ago with an old Yamaha before I finally got a rebuilt one and replaced it. Lots of black dusty grunge in there. +1. I take my vehicles starter off every few years and give it a good cleaning with electrical cleaning spray. Water, dirt, grime, grease. It all gets in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 Will try that, need to get some electrical cleaning spray first :) Hopefully the starter motor is the culprit, what do you guys think? We would put bike into a high gear and rock the rear wheel back and forth until we felt the crank turn over then put it into neutral and try starting it. Sometimes it would work, sometimes would not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer swas Posted September 21, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 21, 2011 Yep that will be the reason for only a click when the GO button is pressed. See the link in reply #2 from mello dude info on what to look for around your charging circuit now your multimeter has new batteries to start tracking down the regular dying of your bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 Yep that will be the reason for only a click when the GO button is pressed. See the link in reply #2 from mello dude info on what to look for around your charging circuit now your multimeter has new batteries to start tracking down the regular dying of your bike. Already did that, and found nothing abnormal except my battery. The stator tested good etc, so I suspect my battery was being overcharged from the regulator. The R/R was replaced with a FH0122AA so now it is starter motor time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 You might be able to temporarily fix the starter motor by taking it apart and cleaning it out. Worked for me a couple times years ago with an old Yamaha before I finally got a rebuilt one and replaced it. Lots of black dusty grunge in there. Thanks! Worked! +1. I take my vehicles starter off every few years and give it a good cleaning with electrical cleaning spray. Water, dirt, grime, grease. It all gets in there. Opened up the starter motor, cleaned it out with a can of connection cleaner, it was soooo dirty. Now the motor starts and runs fine, but I think I fouled the spark plugs or something. When I give it gas it runs like crap and has an occasional backfire. Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted September 22, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2011 The only time I had some backfiring was when I hooked up the coils wrong for the back two cylinders. It ran, but the engine sounded mad. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 The only time I had some backfiring was when I hooked up the coils wrong for the back two cylinders. It ran, but the engine sounded mad. LOL Those have not been messed with. Edit: Now it does not start at all, if I give it gas while cranking it sounds like it wants to start but does not. Gas is brand new about 12 litres of 87 octane from esso fresh from the day it died (fill up was less then 5 mins before it died) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted September 22, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2011 An off the wall thought....... http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/67762-eek-a-mouse/page__fromsearch__1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 An off the wall thought....... http://www.vfrdiscus...__fromsearch__1 Will check, but mechanic told me the air filter was cleaned out when he inspected the bike right after purchase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted September 22, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2011 You for sure know fuel is coming out the injectors? I'd prop the tank up, take the filter out and take a look down the throttle bodies while cranking it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 You for sure know fuel is coming out the injectors? I'd prop the tank up, take the filter out and take a look down the throttle bodies while cranking it. Will try that thanks, I hope the injectors are not the problem as they were supposed to be fixed by my mechanic in the after purchase inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Took it to the mechanic, it is fouling plugs and running rich + backfiring :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmythecop Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 Took it to the mechanic, it is fouling plugs and running rich + backfiring :( Just a guess, but maybe another harness problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted September 22, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2011 Check fuel pressure regulator for leaks. To do this remove vacuum hose from regulator then try and start bike. If it's stuffed fuel will come out the vacuum port on the regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Check fuel pressure regulator for leaks. To do this remove vacuum hose from regulator then try and start bike. If it's stuffed fuel will come out the vacuum port on the regulator. Sorry but I have no idea what that looks like, or where it would be located. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Never mind, found out. Anyone know where I can get one if it turns out to be bad? Honda is back ordered until early November :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 23, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 23, 2011 Turbo City use to have a after market one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Turbo City use to have a after market one. That would make it run more rich, which is the exact opposite of what I need. Mechanic took it out for a ride today, said it worked perfect for about 30 mins then started to bog out and die. Fuel pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 25, 2011 Author Share Posted September 25, 2011 Got it back today, now I am 90% sure the battery is the root of my problems. It starts fine and holds 13.5v-ish at idle and 14.2v-ish at 5000rpm. Sometimes while running the multimeter would read 0v off the battery then it would go back up to 14.2v. Hopefully a Canadian Tire has the battery in stock, so I can swap it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 25, 2011 Author Share Posted September 25, 2011 God damn....bike starts revs etc all is well...then as soon as I tilt it over to start riding it stalls. Kickstand up or down does not matter, always stalls and does not start back up unless it is on its kickstand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted September 25, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 25, 2011 Sounds like the tump over sensor is out of wack. Its behind the headlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet132 Posted September 25, 2011 Author Share Posted September 25, 2011 Def not that, if I tip the bike into riding position and push the kickstand out with my foot to simulate it being down the bike starts and runs fine. So I think I need a new kickstand switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmythecop Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 I hate to be nelson naysayer, but again .... Weird problems after a loom swap? Here on the police force, we call that s clue. I hope I am wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted September 26, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 26, 2011 I hate to be nelson naysayer, but again .... Weird problems after a loom swap? Here on the police force, we call that s clue. I hope I am wrong. Is that the kaldek syndrome? (Sry friend, couldn't resist, it's all in fun...... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted September 26, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 26, 2011 Def not that, if I tip the bike into riding position and push the kickstand out with my foot to simulate it being down the bike starts and runs fine. So I think I need a new kickstand switch. Hrm. The bike should start in neutral with the kickstand either up or down. Know that the clutch switch, kickstand switch, and neutral switch are all connected into the same circuit and are affected by the clutch diode (it's inside the fuse block). If there are any problems in this circuit, the bike won't start. A faulty clutch diode will therefore cause all sorts of weirdness. Why won't the bike start if the clutch diode or the circuit is stuffed? Because the clutch diode is essentially the negative side of the starter relay circuit; if that diode won't let current pass through the starter relay then the bike won't start. The electrical path changes depending on the state of the diode, so tracing the circuit can get a bit weird. In order for the diode to let current pass through the starter relay, the following must be in effect: Engine in Neutral AND (sidestand down OR sidestand up) - clutch irrelevant Engine in gear AND (clutch lever pulled in AND sidestand up) If the diode is busted, you'll never hit the required combination. EDIT: I've just eyeballed the wiring diagram again and it looks like the ECU monitors the same circuit for the sidestand-initiated kill when the engine is running. At least, that's what I think from a cursory glance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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