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HELP FUEL PUMP NOT PRIMING!!!


CandyRedRC46

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the bike was running fine yesterday. then i went for a ride all day. but when i went to pull into my drive way last night the engine cut out. i have not been able to restart it since, all day today.

the kill switch is in the run position. ive checked all the fuses i can find. i checked the connections to the fuel pump. i pulled the upper cowling off and tried swapping out the "engine shut off relay" and also the "fuel cut relay". i still need to check the bank angle sensor and also see if the fuel pump is getting power, and if the pump itself is okay. the FI light does come on and off when i flip the kill switch, and also when i pull the engine stop relay. i guess im supposed to check the ecm , power and grounds, but im not really sure how to go about doing this.

i really need a hand here. i would really appreciate any advice.

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the bike was running fine yesterday. then i went for a ride all day. but when i went to pull into my drive way last night the engine cut out. i have not been able to restart it since, all day today.

the kill switch is in the run position. ive checked all the fuses i can find. i checked the connections to the fuel pump. i pulled the upper cowling off and tried swapping out the "engine shut off relay" and also the "fuel cut relay". i still need to check the bank angle sensor and also see if the fuel pump is getting power, and if the pump itself is okay. the FI light does come on and off when i flip the kill switch, and also when i pull the engine stop relay. i guess im supposed to check the ecm , power and grounds, but im not really sure how to go about doing this.

i really need a hand here. i would really appreciate any advice.

Mate, sounds like your fuel pump might have come unplugged. Quickest possible test here with the least amount of plastics is as follows:

  1. Remove seat
  2. Loosen two 8mm bolts at front of tank
  3. Prop up fuel tenk
  4. Inspect fuel pump connector (two pin plug connected directly to base of fuel pump)
  5. If disconnected, reconnect. If connected, disconnect and bridge with multimeter in 20V range
  6. Measure voltage at fuel pump connector when you turn the ignition switch and run switch ON

If there's no voltage there, you need to go to the relay and work backwards from there. Pressed for time right now but happy to help further. Make sure you can hear fuel pump relay clicking too - it's behind the front right indicator! Should click on for 3 seconds then off when key is first turned ON.

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Try Kaldeks recommendations - but also be aware that you might have a bad /intermittent ground. Front left side - big blue connector - check it to see of the green wire coming in and then leaving is burning up.

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the bike was running fine yesterday. then i went for a ride all day. but when i went to pull into my drive way last night the engine cut out. i have not been able to restart it since, all day today.

the kill switch is in the run position. ive checked all the fuses i can find. i checked the connections to the fuel pump. i pulled the upper cowling off and tried swapping out the "engine shut off relay" and also the "fuel cut relay". i still need to check the bank angle sensor and also see if the fuel pump is getting power, and if the pump itself is okay. the FI light does come on and off when i flip the kill switch, and also when i pull the engine stop relay. i guess im supposed to check the ecm , power and grounds, but im not really sure how to go about doing this.

i really need a hand here. i would really appreciate any advice.

Mate, sounds like your fuel pump might have come unplugged. Quickest possible test here with the least amount of plastics is as follows:

  1. Remove seat
  2. Loosen two 8mm bolts at front of tank
  3. Prop up fuel tenk
  4. Inspect fuel pump connector (two pin plug connected directly to base of fuel pump)
  5. If disconnected, reconnect. If connected, disconnect and bridge with multimeter in 20V range
  6. Measure voltage at fuel pump connector when you turn the ignition switch and run switch ON

If there's no voltage there, you need to go to the relay and work backwards from there. Pressed for time right now but happy to help further. Make sure you can hear fuel pump relay clicking too - it's behind the front right indicator! Should click on for 3 seconds then off when key is first turned ON.

hey thanks, but i did check the connections, all were good.

and the engine shut off relay is clicking.

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Try Kaldeks recommendations - but also be aware that you might have a bad /intermittent ground. Front left side - big blue connector - check it to see of the green wire coming in and then leaving is burning up.

Pretty rare for an '07 to have this problem. Grounds are decent on '06 onwards.

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also i have a vfrness that i installed last winter. so im pretty sure my grounds are really solid, but i will double check tomorrow. thanks guys.

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hey thanks, but i did check the connections, all were good.

and the engine shut off relay is clicking.

Gonna need to check voltage at the pump wires then.

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just a silly thought is there fuel in that tank?laughing6-hehe.gif

No fuel won't stop the pump from working unless it was run for ages without fuel and overheated & siezed.

Actually a current probe would help confirm that. My pump only pulls 2.62 amps across the relay. A siezed one would pull a lot more, but then would probably also blow the fuel pump fuse.

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believe me i was praying that it was outa gas or low oil. but i put a gallon of gas and topped off the oil. today im gonna see if there is voltage going to the fuel pump, or if the pump is dead. and im gonna also check the bank angle sensor. this really sucks. school starts next monday. if i dont get this sorted in a week im SOL.

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believe me i was praying that it was outa gas or low oil. but i put a gallon of gas and topped off the oil. today im gonna see if there is voltage going to the fuel pump, or if the pump is dead. and im gonna also check the bank angle sensor. this really sucks. school starts next monday. if i dont get this sorted in a week im SOL.

Mate we'll get you sorted, don't stress! You've just gotta commit some hours to this in one hit so you can diagnose it quickly. That way, any lead time needed for parts (if any) doesn't affect your school.

If you do end up needing a pump in a hurry, forget Honda just buy a Walbro 190 L/hr GSS250. It's the same one used in the Supercharger Kit by A&A Performance and is a drop-in replacement (it's tight, but it fits).

The additional flow provided by this pump won't hurt anything; excess just goes back to the tank.

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believe me i was praying that it was outa gas or low oil. but i put a gallon of gas and topped off the oil. today im gonna see if there is voltage going to the fuel pump, or if the pump is dead. and im gonna also check the bank angle sensor. this really sucks. school starts next monday. if i dont get this sorted in a week im SOL.

Mate we'll get you sorted, don't stress! You've just gotta commit some hours to this in one hit so you can diagnose it quickly. That way, any lead time needed for parts (if any) doesn't affect your school.

If you do end up needing a pump in a hurry, forget Honda just buy a Walbro 190 L/hr GSS250. It's the same one used in the Supercharger Kit by A&A Performance and is a drop-in replacement (it's tight, but it fits).

The additional flow provided by this pump won't hurt anything; excess just goes back to the tank.

thank you so much for your help and support! i cried a little when i heard the pump kick on today... lol

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well turns out i found the problem.

if you pull your left hand side fairing off, there are 2 wire harness connections. one is blue and one is grey.

the blue one was bad. i found it by leaving the key in the ON position and playing with every connection i could find.

when i got to the blue one (its an 18 pin connection!) i disconnected it and when i reinserted it the fuel pump primed.

what pisses me off the most, is in January i went through all my connections and packed them full of dielectric grease, which apparently doesnt do shit.

either that or i have a bad wire or pin in that connection.

anyways i cleaned it out as best as i could, but it will still shut off if i jiggle the connection.

i went for a short ride around in circles in front of my house.( i dont want to get stranded in the hood in orlando at midnight) and it never shut off, but im not to comfortable with long rides at this point.

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well turns out i found the problem.

if you pull your left hand side fairing off, there are 2 wire harness connections. one is blue and one is grey.

the blue one was bad. i found it by leaving the key in the ON position and playing with every connection i could find.

when i got to the blue one (its an 18 pin connection!) i disconnected it and when i reinserted it the fuel pump primed.

what pisses me off the most, is in January i went through all my connections and packed them full of dielectric grease, which apparently doesnt do shit.

either that or i have a bad wire or pin in that connection.

anyways i cleaned it out as best as i could, but it will still shut off if i jiggle the connection.

i went for a short ride around in circles in front of my house.( i dont want to get stranded in the hood in orlando at midnight) and it never shut off, but im not to comfortable with long rides at this point.

As said in PM, dielectric grease only keeps moisture out and is NOT conductive. Only grease like Ox-gard helps with conductivity.

If it shuts off when you jiggle it, that sounds more like a broken wire. There are three things that would stop your pump that go through this connector:

- Bank Angle Sensor

- Engine Stop relay

- Fuel Cut relay (pump relay)

You need to focus on the following wires in the connector for connectivity:

- All Green wires (grounds)

- White/Black

- Red/Yellow

- Black

- Black/White

- Red/White

- Brown/Black

- Brown

That covers all the parts that would stop the bike. The grey connector is essentially all the wires that go to the dashboard and is less of a problem.

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kaldek YOU ARE THE SHIT!!!

What do you suggest i do?

cut both ends of the connector and hard wire the wires together?

repair the connector?

focus on trying to find a break in a wire(s)?

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kaldek YOU ARE THE SHIT!!!

What do you suggest i do?

cut both ends of the connector and hard wire the wires together?

repair the connector?

focus on trying to find a break in a wire(s)?

No way I would cut all those wires. Only one of them will be a problem, so you just need to find it. I would do the following in order:

  • Clean all connector pins on both sides of the connector with carbie/throttle cleaner or contact cleaner spray
  • If that doesn't work, inspect and clean all ground wires in the ground block (red cap, about eigh green wires going into it)
  • If that doesn't work, wiggle each connector on both sides of the blue plug with the engine running to find the suspect one (it will be one of the colours I mentioned). When you find it, you can temporarily splice it on each side of the connector with a pair of posi-taps and some spare wire

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Here is a link to how to fix the most likely culprit in the blue connector........

Many folks have had this issue - and its why I pointed to it a couple days ago.

Just try this fix and I'll bet you it solves your issue.

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  • 5 weeks later...

the problem came back. i spent all day cleaning it out with terminal cleaner and a tooth brush. it seemed to run good when i finished. but after i put the fairing back on i cant get it to move more than fifteen feet before it shuts off. i don't know if there's a break in the wires or the cleaner wasn't dry yet and was helping to conduct electricity, and putting the fairing back on is stressing a break in the wire or the connection itself. i looked up recalls and apparently there hasn't been a recall on this connection since 2005. i think im going to cut the connector out and hard wire and heat shrink every individual wire.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Find the wire or wires on both side of the connectors and remove a small section rubber coating and install jumper around the connector, test ride it and be careful not short anything out. This at least lets you eliminate the connector.

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well turns out i found the problem.

if you pull your left hand side fairing off, there are 2 wire harness connections. one is blue and one is grey.

the blue one was bad. i found it by leaving the key in the ON position and playing with every connection i could find.

when i got to the blue one (its an 18 pin connection!) i disconnected it and when i reinserted it the fuel pump primed.

what pisses me off the most, is in January i went through all my connections and packed them full of dielectric grease, which apparently doesnt do shit.

either that or i have a bad wire or pin in that connection.

anyways i cleaned it out as best as i could, but it will still shut off if i jiggle the connection.

i went for a short ride around in circles in front of my house.( i dont want to get stranded in the hood in orlando at midnight) and it never shut off, but im not to comfortable with long rides at this point.

dielectric grease is an insulator , I keep saying that, nobody listens , im the only one who doesnt seem to have all these issues.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 4 years later...

Hi guys.  For future people who come across this thread, here is some valuable info!

I had this problem on my 2003 VTEC last week, FI light always on and no fuel pump prime, no sparks but starting engine cranks. Verified all fuses, switches, wiring... but on my bike it was the HISS antena burned, wich did not allow the system to startup.

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