Monitor WIre Fix - 2002 and newer

[KanadianKen]

THis is a step by step method to do the monitor wire fix. It guarantees a solid and direct connection to the positive battery post from the black wire coming off the RR.

Step 1:

Get your tool kit out. Spread a hotel towel down – so you don’t lose tools. Spread another down, to receive the bolts you will be removing. Sounds gay – but it’ll help long-term.

You need to get the fairing off: Here are the bolts and fasteners you need to remove. Any fasteners or bolts shown in the picture HAVE to come out. At the end – I took a picture of ALL the fasteners I removed. Make sure you got them all covered.

Under the bike – two fasteners. If they are round and have a “button” in the centre – push the button, then pull the outside part of the fastener out. I only have one on my bike- it’s a pain to remove as often as my fairings are off.

Three bolts you see here. Remember where each bolt came from – the bolts you will be removing are of different sizes.

The bolt on the side comes out as well.

The two bolts on the black plastic centre fairing – the one on the top left, and the one about 7 inches down from that. Next to the mud stain on this picture.

Looking to the inside of the right fairing, at the tip of my finger. Another of the mushroom type fasteners – press the centre, then remove the whole fastener.

The two bolts at 10 o’clock, and 6 o’clock.

Now the fairing isn’t attached. The best way to get it off is to be careful and pull the fairing out – away from the bike from the back part – the part furthest backwards from the handlebars. Then – take the fairing somewhere that you won’t step on it.

Step 2:

Locate the Regulator/Rectifier. Here’s what it looks like OFF the bike:

The part you are interested in is the connector that has the Green red and Black wires. The BLACK wire is the one you will be messing with.

The RR is located here – on the right side of the bike. Carefully follow the wires coming out of the RR. Follow the wires to the connector.

Here it is. There is a plastic rubber shield – just move it up and away from you – it’ll reveal the connector that you need to simply separate.

Here is the connector in one piece:

In the picture above, you will see green wires, red wires, and a white wire (actually a white/black wire.) That is NOT the half of the connector that you want to mess with. The side you need to manipulate is under my finger in the above picture.

Push the tab in, and separate the connector.

You should then see this:

The wire connection you want to look at in the above picture is the top right connection. Notice the rectangular open space on top of each connector? This is where you insert a paperclip, a very small screwdriver, etc…. and press in with the tool of your choice. At the same time – pull the black wire out the other end. Here’s a couple more pics. I used a nail to push the tab in:

Ok – the hard part is over. Now reconnect the plastic connectors, leaving this black wire out and on its own.

Now here is the what you need to create to complete the fix:

Get yourself about 3 feet of 12 or 14 gauge wire and strip off a bit of cover from each end: the following 3 pics illustrate: You will also need a RING terminal that is destined for the POSITIVE side of the Battery, and a female spade connector that connects to the Black male connector you just removed from the plastic connector.

In my pic above – my index finger is on the wire with the female connector, and my thumb is on the ring terminal. Make sure you look at the size of the bolt on your battery (positive terminal) to make sure you get a ring terminal large enough to attach it.

I attached the female connector to the black wire first, then routed the other end back toward the battery. Something like this:

And here’s what it looks like at the connection to the black wire: I used an insulated female connector – that is a good choice if you can find them.

Next – remove the battery cover, and remove the positive battery connection – and slip the ring terminal onto the bolt. Reattach to the battery.

Next – button everything back up…… here’s the bolts and fasteners you removed:

[Auspanglish]

No in-line fuse needed, right? Guess it would be defeating the purpose of the R/R obtaining an accurate reading and (being ignorant), I'm not sure it would be necessary, but that's why I'm asking, 'cause I don't know!! No such thing as a stupid question right?

[KanadianKen]

Talk about a delayed response (on my behalf!) - NO - no inline fuse required.

[Switchblade]

Talk about a delayed response (on my behalf!) - NO - no inline fuse required.

Talk about a delayed response (on my behalf!) - NO - no inline fuse required.

I have been waiting all this time now I can finish.

[Diogo]

On 30/04/2015 at 2:15 PM, KanadianKen said:

Talk about a delayed response (on my behalf!) - NO - no inline fuse required.

Hello there are you sure about the fuse not being needed?  I saw several posts were people mounted one.  Can you advise please.  I just did this mood using a 7,5 fuse. 

[KanadianKen]

An inline fuse sis not in place on my bike - but I am responsible if something happens. I didn't want extra connections adding to potential voltage drop - so that's why I didn't use one. Others have used one so if you feel better by having it - go for it!!


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[bog]

hey there, what does RR represent, something regulator? no im not daft, have a lifetime of mechanical experience, havent come across a definition yet, is it an electrical component?   bog

[TheLimey]

Regulator-Rectifier.