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dallasb

Rear Wheels/tires, The End All Discussion

Question

There seems to be a lot of questions about rear wheel and tire sizes and fitment, here is the answers to all who inquire, please correct me if I make a mistake.

Rear wheel ID picture

gallery_4071_2768_24337.jpg

vfrwheels.JPG

3rd Gen wheels, 90-93, the infamous 8-spoke

Size: 17"x5.5"

OE Tire: 170/60-17

Tire recommendations: 180/55-17 is the best handling tire you can put on a 5.5" rim, nothing else.

The 170 will not put as big of a rubber contact patch down when cornering hard. The 190 tire will be too big, not as stable handling in hard cornering.

Fitment: Will fit all VFR's 90-09 without any problems

Weight: 13.1 lbs

4th gen, 94-97

Size: 17"x5.0"

OE Tire: 170/60-17

Tire recommendations: 170/60-17 is recommended for the 5.0" rim, a 180 will work, but won't be as stable handling in hard cornering. Some may argue this, the 180 will work, but I think the 170 is a better choice.

Fitment: Will fit all VFR's 90-09 without any problems

Weight: approx 12 lbs, please confirm me this.

5th & 6th Gen, 98-01, 02-09

Size: 17"x5.5"

OE Tire: 180/55-17

Tire recommendations: 180/55-17 is the best handling tire you can put on a 5.5" rim, nothing else.

The 170 will not put as big of a rubber contact patch down when cornering hard. The 190 tire will be too big, not as stable handling in hard cornering.

Fitment: Interchangable between 98-09 no problem, and will fit 90-97 with notching modification to hub mounting surface.

The bolts for the brake rotor stick out instead of being flush, as shown in pic. This mod has been shown, use the search feature.

Weight: 13.1 lbs

gallery_4071_2768_16398.jpg

vfrhubs.JPG

Edited by dallasb
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RC45 wheels?

Ciao,

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RC45 wheels?

Ciao,

I'm with JZH... what work was done on the conversion?

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I recall seeing that mod done where the four factory holes were welded up. A bit of work, but not particularly difficult for a good welder.

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I recall seeing that mod done where the four factory holes were welded up. A bit of work, but not particularly difficult for a good welder.

Not very difficult at all.

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RC45 wheels?

Ciao,

I'm with JZH... what work was done on the conversion?

There are different ways to go about it. I chose a way that I could use the parts I already had and I can easily obtain.I already had a Hawk GT spindle. This would be a direct bolt-on but it's a few millimeters short on the sprocket side. So I had my fabricator marry the Hawk GT's spindle and my VFR's spindle together. The Hawk's spindle has the inner spline that you would need for the inner wheel axle, which is used to hold the wheel onto the spindle. That inner axle may need to be extended, in my case it had to. It depends on how the two spindles are married. You'll need to source the inner axle, wheel nut base, wheel nut, and nut washer from an NC30, NC35, RC30, RC45, etc. Ebay UK is your best bet. Finally, the lug holes need to be heli-arced shut for the finished look then powdercoated. That's it.

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That's a nicely done Hawk, indeed. Did you turn the NC35 sprocket carrier around the wrong way? Looks better that way, gives me further ideas for a project in motion. Thanks for the idea!

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Gen3 wheels looks great on the later models.

post-30134-0-06976500-1405480135.jpg

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That's a nicely done Hawk, indeed. Did you turn the NC35 sprocket carrier around the wrong way? Looks better that way, gives me further ideas for a project in motion. Thanks for the idea!

Flipping the sprocket carrier is a common trick to get the proper chain alignment for cushless conversion on VFRs and Hawk GTs (RC31).

Edited by rc4six

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Excellent. I learnt something new today. Thanks!

Looks better with the sprocket carrier flipped too. Currently working on a similar conversion, although I'm temped (sorely!) by Dymag carbon wheels - which is the main reason for the conversion...
BTW, the Bros / Hawk swingarm looks a lot like the VFR750's as far as brake mounting is concerned. How did you make the brake underslung?

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BTW, the Bros / Hawk swingarm looks a lot like the VFR750's as far as brake mounting is concerned. How did you make the brake underslung?

On both the Hawk (mounting on top) and VFR (mounting on the bottom), the brake mountings are stock.

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Ah yes, sorry - I must've been seeing double! :happy:
Anyways, I'm sure you've seen it, but there's an underslung kit available for the hawk that might work on VFR's too. Something I shall research more: http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/forum/honda-hawk-gt-bros-discussions/general-discussion/25919-hawk-forum-custom-made-parts-thread

Fantastic looking hawk you have there anyways - congratulations. :wink:

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will a 4th gen sprocket carrier fit on a 5th gen?

part 6 and10 (etc) in this pic

post-8974-0-82956200-1427913198.jpg

What about the rear axle (part #3)? will that fit on a 5th gen?

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It will fit but you need every other RC45 part to make it work... its about a 5K investment..

 

 

post-3131-0-75726800-1427935133.jpg

 

 

post-3131-0-81626500-1427935161.jpgpost-3131-0-97442400-1427935080.jpg

It will fit but you need every other RC45 part to make it work... its about a 5K investment...post-3131-0-75726800-1427935133.jpg

post-3131-0-81626500-1427935161.jpg

post-3131-0-97442400-1427935080.jpg

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Clear on the axle.

That leaves the sprocket holder..... (part #10 in the pic)

A fellow VFR rider has deep scratches in his 5th gen holder and I have a spare 4th gen.

The partnumbers are different, bit will it fit? :unsure:

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Different diameters, so would be a loose fit!

Ciao,

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Cheers, we like it nice and tight so we'll give this a miss...

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Anyone got any pictures of or a how to guide for notching the 5th gen+ wheels to fit the 3rd and 4th gen. I see a lot of talk but no solid how-to's for it, I wouldn't mind trying a CB1000R on mine but don't want to attack it with an angle grinder till I know what's really needed.

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Man those cb1000r wheels look awful.

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I don't have any pics, as my VFR is 1/4 of the planet away from me, but if you take some clay, or some putty, or anything that is transferrable, and place it on the heads of the bolts gently/loosely, then mount the wheel, you'll see where you need to radius the inner face of the wheel. Then you take a dremel, or equivalent, and SLOWLY make a circular indent into the inner face of the im. If you Google this " blending turbine blades" you'll get the idea. You want a nice clean semi circle, so the wheel won't crack due to stress risers. It isn't hard, just takes a little patience. 

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If you don't want to notch the wheel, you could just replace the disc bolts instead...

 

20160422_195628x.thumb.jpg.6d07f53220b34ab8d7f395a344b72cdd.jpg

 

I always get the nomenclature wrong, but I think they're BMW "S1000R" disc bolts.  I used some titanium ones off eBay, but you could also use OEM BMW.  There's enough clearance on the other side for flanged nylock nuts--at least there was on my 3rd gen.

 

Ciao,

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On 16/07/2014 at 3:33 AM, rc4six said:

There are different ways to go about it. I chose a way that I could use the parts I already had and I can easily obtain.I already had a Hawk GT spindle. This would be a direct bolt-on but it's a few millimeters short on the sprocket side. So I had my fabricator marry the Hawk GT's spindle and my VFR's spindle together. The Hawk's spindle has the inner spline that you would need for the inner wheel axle, which is used to hold the wheel onto the spindle. That inner axle may need to be extended, in my case it had to. It depends on how the two spindles are married. You'll need to source the inner axle, wheel nut base, wheel nut, and nut washer from an NC30, NC35, RC30, RC45, etc. Ebay UK is your best bet. Finally, the lug holes need to be heli-arced shut for the finished look then powdercoated. That's it.

 

Can I ask what you (rc4six) did with the VFR. It's a 3rd Gen wheel that is normally located and driven by the wheel mount studs and nuts - which are no longer used. I assume you used a 400 axle, but how did you match the wheel to the drive pins? Did you have to machine the back mount face of the wheel to accommodate the drive pins?

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