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  3. 6th Gen Refresh

    Well all the cooling lines are replaced along with O-rings, thermostat, and a quick water pump inspection. All seems in good order and ready for some coolant. It's ready for the rebuilt throttle body to go back on. Let's hope we find a place for all the loose vacuum lines..... :-) After that, the rear CCT (still waiting for that part to arrive). Then these will go on..... Then the heat shield. Then time to rebuild the front calipers.... Using EBC pads.... I need to buy a micrometer to measure the rotor thickness. There is a distinct "lip" around the perimeter edge of both rotors, which tells me they are pretty far gone. Those puppies are expensive. Still hoping to use the old pair. We'll see. Still waiting on powder coating to be completed. They have my front fork lowers, which I need to get the front end back in order. So far - all is good. Appreciate all the advice thus far. Cheers!
  4. Handlebar Muffs

    I'm 100% with Mohawk and Stray on heated gear. Turn the knob to be as toasty warm as you like, and no bulky layers. Simple thermodynamics - insulation only slows the heat transfer. Sustained rides at low temp will eventually suck all the heat out of you, no matter how many purpose made base layers you have. For this situation, it is necessary to add heat to the equation. Heated gear does it. Not a big fan of the muff concept. Heated gloves solve the cold hands issue. Mine are even waterproof. That said, on real cold occasions, the gloves need more heat than the jacket, and if you're on a single circuit, the jacket can get too warm. So, for this, heated grips add just enough heat to find a decent balance. Both with a push of a button or turn of a knob.
  5. 5th Gen Engine Modifications

    Great tips Gents. A bit cold for me to begin working down the list right now. I hope a slight thaw in the next few days.
  6. Almost there. But today it's time to sing along with Adam Sandler. Put on your Yarmulke, it's time to celebrate Hanukkah.
  7. damn why does everyone want my money??
  8. Yesterday
  9. Wishing you all a festive season!!!
  10. 5th gen "coil on plug" setup.

    Thank you much! Snagged a decent looking "tested" set on fleabay for $25 shipped. I will be doing this mod as a part of the refresh on my '98.
  11. Handlebar Muffs

    I'll add the H-G stuff to my list of products to check, thanks. I've heard this thing about a warm core versus cold fingers and maybe it helps, or maybe it helps some people. In my experience it definitely didn't help enough. If you don't mind cobbling stuff together and don't care how it looks, all one has to do where I live is take a cue from the food delivery guys. Or from the everything delivery guys I see rolling around when I go to South Korea, who fabricate scooter skirts, motorcycle fairings, handlebar guards, GPS/phone sun shades, etc. out of ubiquitous ugly green corrugated board and tape.
  12. How to lift RC36 to replace shock without centerstand?

    With the optional "front lift arm" you can lift the front. With the rear shock out, you cannot use the swingarm to pull the rear down. But use a longer strap to the subframe. Or place a small jack (with a bit of wood) under the oilpan, up enough to raise the front.
  13. Sprocket change

    Most times it is because our speed limits are artificially low. Also, and this is important to note, it depends on how vigilant and enthusiastic the highway patrol is. For example, the speed limits in most Interstates out in the deserts of California will say 70 mph. But you will get passed by everything except motorhomes at that speed! Most traffic move at 80 out there, and a great many go around 85. OTOH, on the highway leading from the greater Los Angeles basin to the Bay Area (San Francisco), the California Highway Patrol are very aggressive. So the posted speed limit is between 65-70 mph and most traffic will move around 75-78 mph. I personally wouldn't attempt to cruise through that section of highway at greater than 80 mph for long periods without a proper Radar Detector. Every time I go through there I see so many vehicles getting speeding citations.
  14. Sprocket change

    Indicated 95 mph? That would be 90 mph true. Mine also does same as your. VTEC starts to kick in at in indicated 95 mph (90 mph true).
  15. How to lift RC36 to replace shock without centerstand?

    These are great products to have!
  16. Rear-sets - looking for aftermarket CNC

    Replied, thanks! :)
  17. How to lift RC36 to replace shock without centerstand?

    I just ordered the Abba Superbike Stand Front & Rear Package. Not only did I need a stand that would allow me to change the shock (my Pitbull doesn't), I need to get the forks off, so that means buying a second stand. For $275 with the Abba, I can take the shock off, take the forks off (possibly not at the same time, but that's OK) and do all the other maintenance the Pitbull allowed. Now off to the classifieds, Craigslist and Ebay to list the Pitbull for sale...
  18. Sweet! Keep us posted, mine is only a 700, but would be interested in a full system to replace my micron slip on.
  19. 5th gen engine in 6th gen

    Gotcha! Okay, so we're not in the presence of greatness, just in the presence of someone who makes their greatness possible! Ciao,
  20. 5th gen "coil on plug" setup.

    4800 is what I would call a "long" COP with an external grommet. Used on GSXR750 (06-07), GSXR600 (01-03), Yamaha XV1600. Other long COPs with external grommets include: 5100 (also GSXR750 06-07?), 5140 (GSXR750 11-16) and 5230 (GSXR750 08-11). I'm curious how Stray is going to seal his COPs... All of the Honda COPs seem to be internally sealed, which means that the seal depends on the valve cover having a smaller orifice than I believe VFR valve covers have. All of the externally sealed COPs I've tried on my 3rd gen do not really fit correctly, but VFROZ did mention that some trimming is required. I've also tried swapping grommets between different COPs, but that wasn't much help. (FYI, the 3rd gen cannot use the long COPs--it needs shorter ones to clear the radiator, but the only short ones I've found that had external grommets were on the Yamaha R6 ca. 2002.) Ciao,
  21. Sprocket change

    You're correct 16/43, wrong bike, but the VFR does 95 in top at just below VTEC cut in
  22. Interesting Fuel Stats.

    OK, so the issue here it that there is NO SUCH THING as Premium fuel. Fuel comes in various octane ratings & there are generally 2 used in the world just to confuse people. MON in the American influenced world & RON in the rest of the world. MON87 roughly equates to RON95. The higher the number the more the fuel when mixed in the correct AFR resists detonation, this is normally linked to compression ratio, and as a general rule the higher the compression ratio the higher the octane rated fuel required. BUT The BUT being most manufacturers confusingly state the engines static compression ratio, this is if you set the piston to BDC, then closed the valves & forced the piston to TDC. But as we all know, valves are never closed except at ignition time. So what you really need to know is the DYNAMIC compression ratio & for most well tuned engines designed to run on normal octane fuel (MON87-RON95) that will be around 10.5-10.9-1 ratio. Even the CBR1000RR & various other 1000cc sports bike quoting 12+ or 13-1 ratios only manage 10.x dynamic compression due to valve overlap to allow maximum rpm's to carry power higher up the speed range. The upshot of this is that "premium" or rather higher octane fuels can NOT produce more power or better mpg, the energy content of a set volume of fuel is fixed, so regardless which you inject the amount of power out is more a factor of the AFR than the fuel octane. In theory if our cylinders were working perfectly at the ideal 14-1 AFR then they would burn 0.0000273cc per cylinder per cycle. MPG or MPH is a determined to a large extent by the engine speed, acceleration & riding style plus load applied to the vehicle. So a bike travelling at a constant speed below 50mph will have significantly better mpg than one reaching 100mph & back to 30mph randomly on a track, mostly due to revs and speed of acceleration. You can run your own numbers, but efficiency is a combination of power required & where any engine sits in the rev range relative to the road speed required. So a big engine at idle can often be more efficient than a mid sized engine below/above peak torque rpm, where as a small engine running at peak torque rpm will often be more efficient than either of the others, but then you won't have much speed or power in reserve. On my euro tours, I often got 200miles from 17L of fuel or 53mpg, at motorway speeds commuting to work I can't get 170miles from 19L, or 40mpg (UK gallon=4.546L), on a track day I can push that close to 30mpg, due to running in low gears at high rpm all the time. So run some numbers for a VFR at say 5000rpm constant & 11000rpm constant & you will find that whilst fuel flow at higher rpm is reduced due to cylinder filling time reduction, the amount of fuel applied is only slightly less, depends on the volumetric efficiency of the engine in each rev range..
  23. Rear-sets - looking for aftermarket CNC

    I have the stock ones at work. PM sent to SEBSPEED for address.
  24. You might get told a 170 is best, well...it's not. The 170 was the common most size back then, 180's were virtually unheard of. You'd need a 6" rim for a 190. You could achieve that with a hub swap from a ducati/Triumph with one of their later bikes wider rear wheels - lot of effort!
  25. Hindle exhausts in collaboration with http://www.ripplerockracers.com/ are in the process of finalizing the newest full 4-2-1 exhausts for the early VFR's. I'm not sure when these will roll out, or what the final cost will be but I'm planning on keeping up with the progress and hope to get one myself. Sounds like they're working on two variants, a high mount and low mount, both of which are right exit.
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