23 replies to this topic

[advcyclist]

After purchase, I purged all the bad fuel from the bike and replaced with fresh non-ethanol. Replaced the fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter and replaced the filter. All fuel leaks stopped... until yesterday. I noticed the distinct smell of dripped fuel when I opened the garage yesterday. Checked my previous repairs and all was secure and dry.

Flashlight led me further down, below the carbs. There is a small, occasional drip that is pooling on top of the intake. It appears to be dripping directly from some type of port on the bottom of the carbs. See the pic for further clarification.

I'd like to get this sorted ASAP and most likely depair while I have everything apart. Does anyone from the forum sell a de-pair kit or are the pieces needed just sourced/made by the owner?

[advcyclist]

From the carb diagrams I have, it appears to be dripping from the float chamber. This can't be normal.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge and silly questions. It's been over a decade since I've dug this deep into an engine.

[Werditgo]

You have a stuck float valve or dirt in the needle valve the float controls.
I have just had the exact same prob.
Remove tank & air box top & filter, bend the tabs back on the screw's holding the airbox lower onto the throttle bodies, undo & lift the tray off the carbs. I can't remember if the belmouths came off before the tray but they are a bayonet fit trapped between the carb tops & air box lower.
Remove carbs & drain. Place upside down in a cardboard box to prevent escaped parts dissapearing.
Strip & clean the offender, blow out with an air line, clean out fuel inlet filter.
I would leave the rest alone if they are ok & not depair them.
Smear a bit of o-ring grease on the float bowl gasket & reverse process to re-assemble.
Before putting the tank back on get a 4ft or longer lenght of fuel pipe & funnel, conected to the carbs, get a mate to hold it up away from the bike. Fill with fuel check for leaks/flooding & if all ok put the air box & tank back on. I ran the bike up at that piont as well to make sure all was ok with the engine running.

Regards Tony

Edited by Werditgo, 19 August 2012 - 01:13 AM.

[advcyclist]

sounds easy enough and I've done everything you've outlined with the exception of removing the carbs. Looks like it's a rainy day Sunday project for me today. Will it be necessary to synch the carbs after this project?

[advcyclist]

Yup... trial by fire is my modus operandi...

[advcyclist]

boy y'all are a talkative bunch...

[airwalk]

had the same (or very similar) problem with my '95. only success stopping it was to replace the O ring-type float bowl gskts with genuine honda "kits". disturbingly expensive as I recall. tried sealer,etc. & ended by just paying the money after poor (non) results, removed & replaced carbs twice, tedious. I seem to recall there were other small O rings in the kits (for around bowl drain screws,etc.)took 15 or so years for this "weeping" that eventually dripped to develop, hopefully it'll be that long before I need to do it again.

[mrmatt]

Do you know if the drip is coming from around the bowl gasket or through the drain screw, or through the overflow hose? Through the overflow means that a float is stuck, but if its coming around the bowl or drain screw then you have a bad gasket. The drip in the picture is on the drain, but it could have just accumulated there as the lowest point. The problem with all those rubber gaskets is that the replacements cost way too much like airwalk said.. If its a small O-ring you might be able to find one at a hardware store, although it might be the wrong rubber compound for use with gas.

Just FYI on future repairs, you don't need to remove the lower air box from the carbs before taking them off, its actually better to leave it all together so it can act as a frame for all the carbs and they won't get moved around during removal/install. Getting them back in can sometimes be a pain, especially if the boots are old. I think I put the boots on the lip of the bike side, installed the front, and then pushed the rear down.

[advcyclist]

much appreciated. I'm fairly certain the leak is coming from failed gaskets. when I pulled them apart, the fuel was seeping around the screw threads. I'm now trying to find some NOS without breaking the bank. also fun pulling all the gasoline toffee and varnish from the float valve screens.

sent from my intergalactic space modulator

[gll429]

ok... wow.. i didnt think you would remove the plenuim.aka airbox bottom holding the carbs together...

if i were you.. go to auto store.. a gallon of GUNK carb dip..
NOT berryman!!!! only GUNK!!!

next.. the $1 store.. buy 3 tin foil pans big enough to fit the carbs abd be shaped around them.
fit one pan around the carbs.. place in a second pan.. leave flat.. pour crab cleaner over the carbs and let them soak..
a good 5 hours should have them looking new...
remove carbs.. and either flush them with water until the water stops turning white.. or place them in a full 5 gallon bucket of water and let them sit for 5 min...
if you have compressor blow them out..if not.. go to a gas station and the mechanic if you use his for 2 min.

rebuild your carbs.. and synchronize them..