Help with fuel leak diagnosis
Posted 18 August 2012 - 03:38 PM
Flashlight led me further down, below the carbs. There is a small, occasional drip that is pooling on top of the intake. It appears to be dripping directly from some type of port on the bottom of the carbs. See the pic for further clarification.
I'd like to get this sorted ASAP and most likely depair while I have everything apart. Does anyone from the forum sell a de-pair kit or are the pieces needed just sourced/made by the owner?
Posted 18 August 2012 - 03:43 PM
Sorry for my lack of knowledge and silly questions. It's been over a decade since I've dug this deep into an engine.
Posted 19 August 2012 - 01:12 AM
I have just had the exact same prob.
Remove tank & air box top & filter, bend the tabs back on the screw's holding the airbox lower onto the throttle bodies, undo & lift the tray off the carbs. I can't remember if the belmouths came off before the tray but they are a bayonet fit trapped between the carb tops & air box lower.
Remove carbs & drain. Place upside down in a cardboard box to prevent escaped parts dissapearing.
Strip & clean the offender, blow out with an air line, clean out fuel inlet filter.
I would leave the rest alone if they are ok & not depair them.
Smear a bit of o-ring grease on the float bowl gasket & reverse process to re-assemble.
Before putting the tank back on get a 4ft or longer lenght of fuel pipe & funnel, conected to the carbs, get a mate to hold it up away from the bike. Fill with fuel check for leaks/flooding & if all ok put the air box & tank back on. I ran the bike up at that piont as well to make sure all was ok with the engine running.
Edited by Werditgo, 19 August 2012 - 01:13 AM.
Posted 19 August 2012 - 08:38 AM
Posted 20 August 2012 - 08:35 AM
Posted 20 August 2012 - 09:28 AM
Just FYI on future repairs, you don't need to remove the lower air box from the carbs before taking them off, its actually better to leave it all together so it can act as a frame for all the carbs and they won't get moved around during removal/install. Getting them back in can sometimes be a pain, especially if the boots are old. I think I put the boots on the lip of the bike side, installed the front, and then pushed the rear down.
'89 NT650 (build in progress) - Ducati 748 tail and subframe, MOTY battery
'95 VFR750 - CBR954 front end, '98 CBR900 gauges, '05 Sprint Triple rear hub & axle (modified), '06 Monster rear wheel, CBR929 rear shock, de-PAIR, Staintune slip on
'96 VFR 750 (build in progress) - '06 R1 front end, CBR929/954 triples, '98 CBR900 gauges, '06 Sprint Triple rear hub & axle (modified), '06 Monster rear wheel, CBR929 rear shock, de-PAIR, TBR headers, stage 1 jet kit, '99 CBR900 subframe, RC45 replica body, Aztec8 headlights
Posted 20 August 2012 - 10:49 AM
sent from my intergalactic space modulator
Posted 20 August 2012 - 11:35 AM
if i were you.. go to auto store.. a gallon of GUNK carb dip..
NOT berryman!!!! only GUNK!!!
next.. the $1 store.. buy 3 tin foil pans big enough to fit the carbs abd be shaped around them.
fit one pan around the carbs.. place in a second pan.. leave flat.. pour crab cleaner over the carbs and let them soak..
a good 5 hours should have them looking new...
remove carbs.. and either flush them with water until the water stops turning white.. or place them in a full 5 gallon bucket of water and let them sit for 5 min...
if you have compressor blow them out..if not.. go to a gas station and the mechanic if you use his for 2 min.
rebuild your carbs.. and synchronize them..