6th Gen PAIR Valve Removalpair valve
Posted 07 August 2012 - 11:00 PM
I’ll say upfront – this is not a how-to guide but more of a “thank you note” to VFRD. I’m “OK” with a wrench but my mechanical skills go back more into the ‘60’s Muscle car era where everything was pretty basic and bullet proof. This FI, electronic, smog-ridden, aluminum stuff sort of intimidates me when it comes to anything more than basic maintenance. So THANK YOU to VFRD for all the info and the encouragement to take matters into my own hands. The CULPRIT....
I had pretty much thought this would take a couple evenings to get done and had settled with the fact that I’d not ride for a week or so while I fit it into my normal schedule. Truth is.. it took only a couple hours and 99% of you guys could do this in under 30 minutes.
Two tricky spots for me; 1) getting the gas tank off by myself – sort of a juggling act. Thanks to VFRD I rode the day before and burned most of the fuel out so the tank was lighter and easier to handle. And I found a thread somewhere that described the process of turning the tank upside down for final disconnect that was a huge help. Still a juggle – but really not bad at all. And 2) the silly reed valves themselves. Getting those little screws backed out was impossible. I ended up using a dremel to cut the backside of the screw off and then the rest of it backed out nicely with a screwdriver. So I did have to sacrifice four screws.
After removing the reed valves, I removed all the plumbing, solenoid valve, tubing, etc. Taped off the electrical feed to keep it clean.
Then the fun part; the plates go in beautifully. It’s really a shame that these are hidden under other components because they are wonderfully machined and finished by A&A.
While I was in there I replaced the air filter with the OEM part. I also disconnected and plugged the Flapper vacuum line, and removed the Snorkel. Buttoned it all up.
Started right up. But idle was set too low. I twisted that up a notch and she ran very nicely but no difference here other than a noisier air intake. BUT - I rode it to work on Monday and right away noticed a much smoother throttle on/off transition. I still have a bit of jerkiness – but nowhere near as much and the improvement is very noticeable in cross town traffic where I’m lugging around in lower revs.
No good deed goes without reward…. Three cheers to A&A.. !
THIS IS A GREAT MOD. Next up DynoJet PC.
Again – my thanks to all the great info and support offered here on VRFD.
Posted 08 August 2012 - 12:09 AM
Posted 02 November 2012 - 08:17 PM
So now what? What all to I remove and take off now? I have the following pic showing where my finger and thumb are pointing. What are they and what do I do with them? My middle finger is pointing to a little plug. Do I simply remove everything and leave that plug there with nothing attached to it? Also, is there an evaporative cannister? If so, I'm not seeing it. Other than a little black cannister thing on the front of the airbox.
Do I do anything with this little black cannister on the front of the airbox? Or any of the other hoses?
Posted 02 November 2012 - 10:38 PM
Basically I removed the housing over each pair valve (2 of them - 1 each head), and the large vacuum lines that lead to them, and the pair valve solenoid which is a valve that actuates both vacuum lines. Then plugged the fitting on the air box.
I would take some pictures but I'm o the road - no not riding - for the next week or so.
Posted 02 November 2012 - 10:39 PM
Edited by HighwayStar2009, 02 November 2012 - 10:40 PM.
Posted 04 November 2012 - 03:24 AM
Posted 04 November 2012 - 12:26 PM
Where did you get the PAIR block off plates? You mentioned A & A performance. Do you know how to reach them? I like the look of those.