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Dealing with E10 fuel


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#21 Tamworth

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 05:10 PM

snip
I'll put my motor up against anyones with the same milege, and I guarantee mine will be far more pristine in wear and internal cleaniliness from fuel pump to tail pipe.



:laughing6-hehe: No way, mine's cleaner than yours

#22 spud786

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 05:30 PM

All it takes is a flash light in the Tail pipe to prove, post a picture >G

#23 Tamworth

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 05:56 PM

All it takes is a flash light in the Tail pipe to prove, post a picture >G


All that will prove is how lean or rich your engine is running. But really, I'm sure your engine is cleaner than any other . . . .

#24 NakedViffer

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 07:26 PM

Lead doesn't hurt Cat converters or o2 sensors, huh? I think you are the one who needs better info. What in the world would even possess you to run that gas in your bike, you get it for $2 a gallon or something?

#25 NorthernVFRDave

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 07:53 PM

Its not the design, its the fuel degrading if not used, if e10 sits. It will turn brown within a month.


It's not the Ethanol that causes this it's the cheap pooly refined fuel they mix it with. My bike sat for 5 months in winter storage and when I drained the tank few weeks ago ( to check the air box for mice) the gas look just the same as it did when I put it in last fall.

Like I said Ethanol is not the evil. It's the cheap low quality fuel they mix with it. This is why people like the AMA and the car compaies are fighting against E15. Because it means cheap dirty fuel on the market plugging up fuel systems and causing millions in warranty work.


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#26 Tamworth

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 07:55 PM

Canook

Yeah Tell my 100,000 mile working Cat and 02 sensors, been using since a vfr Baby
You better find some better info.


I would say VFRCan"s information is quite a bit more researched, accurate and credible than "Yeah Tell my 100,000 mile working Cat and 02 sensors". Maybe you can explain your process in determining that your Cat and sensors are in perfect working condition.

#27 carlitos92

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 09:08 PM

I have owned my $120 Murray lawnmower since 2001 and it has run nothing but E10 fuels since we live in an emissions non-compliance area.

My 2-gallon gas can sometimes goes all winter and into the summer before I add new fuel; my fuel purchase is not necessarily seasonal or annual.

It sits for months. No leaks, no backfires, no issues. I change the oil, I change the spark plug, and every once and a while I change the blade... it just works.

Ethanol may be completely unnecessary in the grand scheme of things, but it isn't necessarily the bad guy, either.
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#28 spud786

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 09:37 PM


Canook

Yeah Tell my 100,000 mile working Cat and 02 sensors, been using since a vfr Baby
You better find some better info.


I would say VFRCan"s information is quite a bit more researched, accurate and credible than "Yeah Tell my 100,000 mile working Cat and 02 sensors". Maybe you can explain your process in determining that your Cat and sensors are in perfect working condition.



The ultimate is hooking up an exhaust analyzer, this requires running a few tanks of regular to blow out all residual LD snowflakes. Also damaged 02 senser would cause error codes, and flaky operation.
Its not my place to debate( i dont care really), someone pointing an encyclopedia results with no practical application is meaningless to me Ive read the stuff too, obviously some prefer unproven snake oil products they really cant tell if its doing anything, My results are far from guessing, its been through internal inspection, valves, Plugs , piston, crowns, exhausts ect or 100's of thousands of miles, including oil analysis, LD powder does show up in the oil.

As to those who say e10 is perfect never have any issue, do you know how many different types of pump e10 fuels are in Canada? I can say there are atleast a dosen different formulations of e10 from state to state in the U.S., some of the worst in California and some of the oxegenated in the far North. Point is there are e10's out there some better than others, Personally I just dont want the crap.

#29 Cogswell

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 10:08 PM

One thing often forgotten about with ethanol blended fuel is phase separation. When moisture (usually humidity in the air or condensation on the inner walls of the tank) comes in contact with the fuel, the ethanol absorbs water until it reaches the saturation point at which time it phase separates and comes out of solution. It depends on many variables including relative humidity and temperature, so some users can have no issues while others find water and sludge at the bottom of the tank after sitting over the winter. Users of Stabil and StarTron forestall this process (I'm not sure about Seafoam) and end up keeping the system far freer of any crud. StarTron claims it can rejuvinate fuel, tho the best bet is prevention. For engines run on a regular basis it's rarely an issue. Since my riding is seasonal, I treat any fuel I expect to sit more than 30 days.

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#30 Chuckster

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 10:30 PM

Monk, you really opened up a can of worms with this one. It's like an oil thread, only different!

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