308 replies to this topic

[trjerm]

Hi Chris, that's coming out awesome, did that fairing come w/ a belly pan and were you able to fit it ,looks like you were. I've also heard of people putting their oil cooler over a rounded piece of wood and bending it slightly to get more wheel clearance. Could you post more pics of your oil cooler instalation, ?ie which oil cooler did you use and what you did you do to modify the oil lines. I may cpoy your oil cooler mods on my "VFR from Hell" and may have to figure out a larger radiator.

[karhawk]

Hi Chris, that's coming out awesome, did that fairing come w/ a belly pan and were you able to fit it ,looks like you were. I've also heard of people putting their oil cooler over a rounded piece of wood and bending it slightly to get more wheel clearance. Could you post more pics of your oil cooler instalation, ?ie which oil cooler did you use and what you did you do to modify the oil lines. I may cpoy your oil cooler mods on my "VFR from Hell" and may have to figure out a larger radiator.

RC51 cooler with 10mm nipples welded on cut off original 12mm lines
I'll use my original rubber lines to fit. I may do the curve thing just for the cool factor, there are some pretty nice looking race radiators but they are 400-500 bucks.

[karhawk]

Anybody care to speculate how the front forks should be set up? I am currently running at about 15mm lower in front since I'm using a roller bearing triple bearings. Stock height being 21.75" from bottom of frame to center of axle. I thought I would take a demo ride soon to see how the 07 Yamaha R1 forks worked with the VFR.
How much does the rear have to go up if I kelp the front stock ride height? The rear will be a 929 shock set up for my weight of 180#. Can one just shim the rear shock to raise the rear? I'm also trying to figure out the front head light wiring, the MV head light has two wires each to hight beam and low beam, the VFR has the standard three plug sockets, the front turn signals are on the VFR are also three wire with the after market lights I have are two wire. Any ideas?

[The Phantom]

Hi Chris, you need the triples to be down the forks a tad to get the rake back to something approximating the VFRs spec. IIRC you have an SP1 top tripleclamp? If so, having the top of the fork legs flush with the top of the triple is already getting you close, if you have an CBR gullwing triple then you definitely want at least 15mm from the top of the fork leg to the top of the triple. Look up the topics that zRoYz has posted, his info and pics might help.

At the back you have a few choices. Standard shock with shims between the top clevis and frame will lift the rear, a rough guide is 3mm of shim will give 10mm of lift at the tail. You need to set it according to the rake you've got at the front, but you know that.

To fit a CBR929 shock you need a lengthened top clevis - 45mm longer IIRC. Then you can again shim for more ride height and more aggresive geometry.

The last option available to you is to flip the eccentric. Have a look at what the rear brake caliper bolts to. It has two bolts, their heads protrude out towards the swingarm, and when you rotate the eccentric to its lowest position (roughly 10 o'clock when looking from the wheel side) the lower bolt head will actually contact the swingarm.

Disassemble the rear hub assembly, take that caliper bracket off and countersink the lower hole (or both, for continuity) and fit countersunk screws, and now you can rotate the eccentric through a full 360 degrees.

So, instead of having the axle at 11 o'clock, you can have it at 7 o'clock. If the axle is still in the same place relative to the ground, the swingarm has gone up... and so has the rear of the bike. This lifts the tail by 30-40mm.

You will probably need a 45T rear sprocket if you flip the eccentric, to keep the chain off the swingarm/chainguide. But that's a good thing too, it's the same as dropping to a 15T (VTR1000F) front sprocket as far as overall gearing goes, and your speedo will read high, but it makes the most of the way the VFR makes power, and it also shortens the wheelbase slightly for more nimble handling.

The bike looks fantastic, well done mate!

[karhawk]

Hi Chris, you need the triples to be down the forks a tad to get the rake back to something approximating the VFRs spec. IIRC you have an SP1 top tripleclamp? If so, having the top of the fork legs flush with the top of the triple is already getting you close, if you have an CBR gullwing triple then you definitely want at least 15mm from the top of the fork leg to the top of the triple. Look up the topics that zRoYz has posted, his info and pics might help.

At the back you have a few choices. Standard shock with shims between the top clevis and frame will lift the rear, a rough guide is 3mm of shim will give 10mm of lift at the tail. You need to set it according to the rake you've got at the front, but you know that.

To fit a CBR929 shock you need a lengthened top clevis - 45mm longer IIRC. Then you can again shim for more ride height and more aggresive geometry.

The last option available to you is to flip the eccentric. Have a look at what the rear brake caliper bolts to. It has two bolts, their heads protrude out towards the swingarm, and when you rotate the eccentric to its lowest position (roughly 10 o'clock when looking from the wheel side) the lower bolt head will actually contact the swingarm.

Disassemble the rear hub assembly, take that caliper bracket off and countersink the lower hole (or both, for continuity) and fit countersunk screws, and now you can rotate the eccentric through a full 360 degrees.

So, instead of having the axle at 11 o'clock, you can have it at 7 o'clock. If the axle is still in the same place relative to the ground, the swingarm has gone up... and so has the rear of the bike. This lifts the tail by 30-40mm.

You will probably need a 45T rear sprocket if you flip the eccentric, to keep the chain off the swingarm/chainguide. But that's a good thing too, it's the same as dropping to a 15T (VTR1000F) front sprocket as far as overall gearing goes, and your speedo will read high, but it makes the most of the way the VFR makes power, and it also shortens the wheelbase slightly for more nimble handling.

The bike looks fantastic, well done mate!

thanks for that
I'll start with 15mm down in front, I 'm borrowing my old stock rear shock for now until the rebuilt 929 arrives.

Hi Chris, you need the triples to be down the forks a tad to get the rake back to something approximating the VFRs spec. IIRC you have an SP1 top tripleclamp? If so, having the top of the fork legs flush with the top of the triple is already getting you close, if you have an CBR gullwing triple then you definitely want at least 15mm from the top of the fork leg to the top of the triple. Look up the topics that zRoYz has posted, his info and pics might help.

At the back you have a few choices. Standard shock with shims between the top clevis and frame will lift the rear, a rough guide is 3mm of shim will give 10mm of lift at the tail. You need to set it according to the rake you've got at the front, but you know that.

To fit a CBR929 shock you need a lengthened top clevis - 45mm longer IIRC. Then you can again shim for more ride height and more aggresive geometry.

The last option available to you is to flip the eccentric. Have a look at what the rear brake caliper bolts to. It has two bolts, their heads protrude out towards the swingarm, and when you rotate the eccentric to its lowest position (roughly 10 o'clock when looking from the wheel side) the lower bolt head will actually contact the swingarm.

Disassemble the rear hub assembly, take that caliper bracket off and countersink the lower hole (or both, for continuity) and fit countersunk screws, and now you can rotate the eccentric through a full 360 degrees.

So, instead of having the axle at 11 o'clock, you can have it at 7 o'clock. If the axle is still in the same place relative to the ground, the swingarm has gone up... and so has the rear of the bike. This lifts the tail by 30-40mm.

You will probably need a 45T rear sprocket if you flip the eccentric, to keep the chain off the swingarm/chainguide. But that's a good thing too, it's the same as dropping to a 15T (VTR1000F) front sprocket as far as overall gearing goes, and your speedo will read high, but it makes the most of the way the VFR makes power, and it also shortens the wheelbase slightly for more nimble handling.

The bike looks fantastic, well done mate!

If I were to try a 15 tooth front sprocket does that change the length chain I buy? I looked on Ebay for 1000 VTR and they show 16 tooth front.

[karhawk]

A few guys at MVAgusta.net mentioned I should lower the front fairing to get it more in line with the F4, here is the lowest it will go and still be able to fit the belly pan. It took all day, I had to make two new fairing stay brackets and the main front headlight bracket, I think it was a good idea and it looks better this is the final fit of the fairings. A short list before test ride
mount oil cooler, bleed the brakes and get the headlight wired.

[trjerm]

Do the MV's use an inner V on their fairings, I know that I need one on my 4th gen for it to cool correctly.

[The Phantom]

If I were to try a 15 tooth front sprocket does that change the length chain I buy? I looked on Ebay for 1000 VTR and they show 16 tooth front.

Hmmm maybe they were 16T. Standard 4th Gen gearing is 16/43.

For a 15T front or a 45T rear (which both equate to much the same gearing change) you don't need to alter your chain length.

[karhawk]

Do the MV's use an inner V on their fairings, I know that I need one on my 4th gen for it to cool correctly.

cooling tubes I think they call them, I'm going with the minimum to start we'll see after some hot weather riding.

[karhawk]

I found some plastic moldable material called kydex to fabricate the tank faring, you heat it up in a oven or using a heat gun and mold it. You can sand it and paint it, and it's 1/8" thick.