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VFR1200F Valve Inspection


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#1 HispanicSlammer

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 12:20 AM

Plastics Removed
Plastics Removed
Started with the side cowls then took off the tank covers



I began with a strip down of the basic plastic removal around 3am in the morning, I work nights anyway and well it is a quiet time for me with no interruptions from nosy family members! That took no time at all I am getting pretty good at removing the plastic.


Top cover and air filter removed
Top cover and air filter removed
unplugged the temp sensor and removed the cover first



Fuel tank Quick Disconnect
Fuel tank Quick Disconnect
Removed the protective plastic cover and squeezed the tines then slipped the hose off the fuel pump then removed the pump power and level sensor connectors then set the tank up out of the way no need to completely remove the tank. Your supposed to depressureize the fuel hoses first by unhooking the fuel pump power then running the bike till it stalls, mine was sitting long enough it was already depressureized, some gas will spill but not much have a shop rag handy. The vent tube is a bit stretched it did not want to come off the charcoal cannister.



vfr1200f ECM
vfr1200f ECM
removed the color coded connectors from the ecm behind the air box and pulled it out



Top cover and K and N filter
Top cover and K and N filter
You can see the temp sensor at the top



You can see the ecm connectors here
You can see the ecm connectors here
The air box come in three sections, the top with the air temp sensor, then a mid section with the air cleaner on the top, the mid section also has several mount points for all the various sensors and wire harness - if you are forgetful photograph it as you go so you have a record of where stuff goes when you go to put it back together - a smart phone or cheap digital camera to record each step.



removed the rest of the air box
removed the rest of the air box
removed the mid section, unhooked all the sensor and connectors, removed the breather tubes, unplugged the wire harness and unscrewed the velocity stacks and removed the air box, it is possible to remove the fuel rail quick disconnects without taking the fuel rails off or the fuel injectors just pull the rubber tabbed piece out from behind the quick connector tines first to allow them to be squeezed inward and release.



Removed the throttle body
Removed the throttle body
There is plenty of room to see the boot strap screws through the holes in the frame a long Phillips head screw driver did the trick, gently pulled the throttle body's out of the engine bay, unhooked the throttle cables unplugged the harnesses and unhooked the vacuum tubes and fuel tubes by the quick connectors careful not to damage any of them



Fuel rails and fuel injectors
Fuel rails and fuel injectors
There is really no need to remove these but the manual said to, you will notice rubber collars that have a pull tab on them they are designed to slip inside the gap of the quick connector tines and splay them out and lock them in so that the fuel hose does not come undone with fuel pressure. I suggest you do not take them off if you can help it the manual says to replace the o rings with new ones if you do remove them. I soaked the whole assembly in sea foam as I continued to work.



Covered the intakes with tape to avoid anything getting into the engine
Covered the intakes with tape to avoid anything getting into the engine
I removed the 3 bolts and took off the rear cylinder head cover, careful the oil ports have rubber washers they come off easy and can get lost, the front cover has a rubber leash for them the rear does not and they can just fall out.



Removed the front cylinder head plastic heat shield
Removed the front cylinder head plastic heat shield
That was a pain in the ass, removed the spark plug wires pulled the harness out of the way, removed the coil on plugs then removed the 4 bolts on the head cover and gently removed the front cylinder cover, the front valve cover was a bit difficult and took some coaxing to get out be careful and do not force it out lots of wires can get snared in there and mess up your day.



Yes you have to remove all that just to get to the front spark plugs, lucky they use high mileage iridium spark plugs with a 30k lifetime so you are going to have to inspect the valves before hand before you have to replace them - I did that and they all looked fine. I had all of my exhaust valves just out of spec those are the rocker roller set, and one of the bucket under shim intakes was loose but still in spec. Just as I figured the roller rocker design would be more apt to be out of spec then the bucket under shims would be, just like the CRX dirt bikes! Its a simple elegant design, less rolling mass with only one cam shaft and the cam chain does not need a huge bend in it for a powerful cam chain tensioner this design uses a spring loaded bow tensioner instead of a massive punch design like the vtecs use.

Gapping the iridium spark plugs
Gapping the iridium spark plugs
they have a 30k mile life but they require an ispection at 15k they were fine, one had a bent tip though but the gaps were fine .040 inches with a round wire gap tool should not be able to pass through the gap



The front cylinder has very cramped working space
The front cylinder has very cramped working space
getting the spark plugs out was a pain, a collared spark plug socket held the plug but there was not enough room for a full sized drive extension I had to put in the extension then connect the wrench take off the wrench then pull the extention out till I could grab hold of the socket then dissconnect the extension and finally pull out the socket with the plug in it, then repete to put them back in. It took several tries too cramped to pull the whole thing out at once. It was easier to do it with the covers off too more room.



More fun days on the bike
More fun days on the bike



There are two marks on the timing cover I suppose its easier then the 4 I had on the old girl, you watch the cam shaft on the rear set for direction ques as you turn it to make sure the engine is in top dead center for the cylinder your inspecting all marked out in the manual but the manual has very small pictures for the cam shaft positions so its hard to read. I managed it though. They have 3 measurements for the Valve Clearance

Exhaust Valves have a roller rocker design with a roller on one end and a screw driver and lock nut on the other with a square head for the driver. They were all out of spec all of them!

The manual has two sets of measurements for the exhaust side

Valve side with the lock nut 0.03 + or - 0,02 mm or (0.012 + or - 0.001 inches)
Roller side 0.21 + or - 0.02 mm or (0.008 + or - 0.001 inches) my gap strips were in listed in both but came stepped up in inch sizes so I use the inch listings

Intake side is the shim under bucket design

0.16 + or - 0.003 or (0.006 + or - 0.001 inches) on one was loose at .007 but still in tolerance and most likely to go tight as it wears.


Manual has a warning picture on how to gap the plugs
Manual has a warning picture on how to gap the plugs



The cylinder fireing order adjustment sequence
The cylinder fireing order adjustment sequence
very difficult to see for me



Manual procedure to measure the exaust valves
Manual procedure to measure the exaust valves
I tried the valve side measurement and was unable to get the gap tool in there but the manual shows the adjustment on the roller side anyway so I just ignored the valve side measurement and just stuck to the roller side



The manuals procedure for a adjusting the vavles
The manuals procedure for a adjusting the vavles
They use a special tool to adjust the lock nut and driver that tightens to 7 ft/lbs torque, I just used an 8mm wrench on the lock nut left it loose then screwed the driver down with my fingers and waited till the 0.008 gap tool was just slightly dragging in the roller then tightened down the lock nut - not to crazy to good and tight feel around what I though 7ft/lbs is no way to get a torque wrench into the front cylinder head area!



Edited some of the photos with additional info that I neglected to mention first draft. I started at 3am and had it done and back together with the bike running at 6am. Including a half an hour bathroom veg out break, take your time, be diliberate, read the manual for instructions, read all the back pages for what to do and dont take any short cuts be careful removing connectors and fasteners they can get dropped easy - calm slow and methodical is best. If you dont have much time to do it then just let a pro do it or wait till you can dedicate all your attention to it and not hurry the job. Break it up into sections/tasks and it wont seem so difficult. Each task one at a time then reverse it to button it all back up.

"May the road rise to meet you." miguel@vfrdiscussion.com

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#2 keepergale

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 11:07 AM

As always great info.

#3 eastbowl2

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 12:45 PM

Nice write up HS. I've got mine apart this week too for the same reason. All my exhaust vavles were out of spec too, some by a fair margin. Three of the intakes were right on the money an one was .01mm off.

#4 fasterspider

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 06:43 PM

This 1200F valve adjust is breaking my heart, I would rather adjust the 24 valves in my CBX any day.
I have another 8000 miles before my VFR is due for her valve adjustment though but, thanks for the demonstration and now I know the nightmare I am in for.

#5 PREY

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 08:08 PM

Thank you, nice info, I've been hoping to see this because I'm about 1k mi. away from this job.

#6 eastbowl2

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 11:42 PM

It's not that bad, really. Now, my 6th gen, that it another story altogether.

This 1200F valve adjust is breaking my heart, I would rather adjust the 24 valves in my CBX any day.
I have another 8000 miles before my VFR is due for her valve adjustment though but, thanks for the demonstration and now I know the nightmare I am in for.



#7 Dutchgixxer

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 08:04 AM

Thank you very much !

#8 c5ip

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 11:15 PM

Just checked mine and all were in spec... One exhaust was slightly tight but within in spec and one intake was slightly tight but within spec also. I only checked the exhaust roller side as well...you don't have to check both. Great advice to take your time. Lots of connections and wire harnesses to get in the way or damaged. Agree...the front cylinder head cover is a pain to get out. Two of the bolts are very hard to get to...I could only trouqe two of the four so just made sure the other two were tight. I did not take the fuel rail or injectors out. The fuel line going to the throttle body from the gas tank comes out with the throttle body; you just have to route it though some hoses and wiring harnesses. It took me almost six hours start to finish inlcuding all the body work.

#9 Tamworth

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 06:08 PM

To those who have done the valves: Did you replace the fuel line retaining clips or re-use the old ones?

#10 eastbowl2

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 09:00 AM

Reused them.




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