[JES_VFR]

More along the lines of why does the VFR get so hot so quickly.
I was thinking about the plastic front panel of the lower fairing the other day.
I have an idea that I think will improve the cooling.

I need to get my hands on the black lower fairing inner panels to modify.

Does anyone here have one that they can part with?

This post has been edited by JES_VFR: 09 July 2008 - 09:35 AM

[Auspañol]

Davidlong, on Jul 6 2008, 06:48 PM, said:

combine pilot, on Apr 23 2008, 07:05 PM, said:

I don't read shematics well so this is not a knock Tightwad. Just simpfied.
I set up my switch as a closed ground (-) SoThe fan is switched on as a ground loop so no positive wire is required.My fan is swiched on manualy and or by the thermo couple.
This way I can't forget to turn it on. It also shuts off with the key if left on.
David

Hi CP; could you send us any photos, pleaseeeee?

Hey David... fancy seeing you here!!! I want to stick a switch on mine as well, in the same way, hopefully Combine Pilot can give us a run down for the electronically cchallenged...

[combine pilot]

The 5th gen the themo couple closes the ground loop.
There for to add ain a switch all that needs to be done is.
Find wire theat goes to the fan motor tap into it with a wire of the same size or bigger. Run that wire to a switch tha you can reach while ridding. Then find a suitable ground to attach a wire to on the frame and run that wire to the other side of the switch.

Switch in closes position closes the ground loop an walla fan runs.
Switch in open position opens the groud loop and no fan.
Thero couple closes the ground loop at 104 and fan runs all on its own when it is supposed to.
Just dont forget to shut it off. And for added protection I put in a fuse to protect from over load.

Use a quality switch as I broke the first one with my big mitts>>>>>>>>>>>>>

[rickdick80]

JES_VFR, on Jun 24 2008, 10:55 PM, said:

2 a set of ducts that will keep the heat from the headers and the engine block from 'pre-heating' the cooling air that get flows through the rads.

Probably the best (but not the cheapest or easiest) way to keep header heat out of the engine compartment is to have the headers ceramic coated. I know JetHot coats the inside and outside of the tubes, so you get a double wall of insulation.

Alternatively, you could use asbestos header wrap tape to insulate the headers and keep the heat out of the engine compartment, but I wouldn't recommend it. Several people have told me of their header wrap experiences that ended badly. Basically, the pipes get eaten from the inside out since the heat can get into the pipe but can't escape to the outside, which drives up the temperature of the pipe wall. Ceramic coating prevents this by having an insulating layer on the inside of the pipe.

Of course, either method requires pulling the headers off your bike, which would make it a winter project for me.

[thereisnospoon]

Just ordered my new fan blade Hope it works well. I don't usually have a problem, but don't like the potential. I realized reading this thread that the reason they used a "puller" fan as opposed to the RC51/superhawk/whatever pusher is probably "rider comfort" of not having the fan blowing out hot air thru the radiator up at you or on your leg. The race bikes won't have the same level of expected comfort. I know we see that as a fault, but I guarantee it was intentional. I rode a Sportster. If HD doesn't give a crap about rider comfort (sitting on a furnace) I can live with the fan actually cooling the water.

[JES_VFR]

thereisnospoon, on Jul 10 2008, 10:41 AM, said:

Just ordered my new fan blade Hope it works well. I don't usually have a problem, but don't like the potential. I realized reading this thread that the reason they used a "puller" fan as opposed to the RC51/superhawk/whatever pusher is probably "rider comfort" of not having the fan blowing out hot air thru the radiator up at you or on your leg. The race bikes won't have the same level of expected comfort. I know we see that as a fault, but I guarantee it was intentional. I rode a Sportster. If HD doesn't give a crap about rider comfort (sitting on a furnace) I can live with the fan actually cooling the water.

Actually the RC51 uses the same puller style fan as the VFR. the superhawk is the only one that got a proper pusher fan.

the fan mod double part I is on the list of stuff to try with my New to me RC51 sp2

But I'm still looking for a spare inner fairing panel for an 98-2001 VFR?

[mello dude]

rickdick80, on Jul 10 2008, 11:28 AM, said:

JES_VFR, on Jun 24 2008, 10:55 PM, said:

2 a set of ducts that will keep the heat from the headers and the engine block from 'pre-heating' the cooling air that get flows through the rads.

Probably the best (but not the cheapest or easiest) way to keep header heat out of the engine compartment is to have the headers ceramic coated. I know JetHot coats the inside and outside of the tubes, so you get a double wall of insulation.

Alternatively, you could use asbestos header wrap tape to insulate the headers and keep the heat out of the engine compartment, but I wouldn't recommend it. Several people have told me of their header wrap experiences that ended badly. Basically, the pipes get eaten from the inside out since the heat can get into the pipe but can't escape to the outside, which drives up the temperature of the pipe wall. Ceramic coating prevents this by having an insulating layer on the inside of the pipe.

Of course, either method requires pulling the headers off your bike, which would make it a winter project for me.

Did the header wrap thing when the bike was down. Cant say anything negative yet. Its a wait a see thing. Temp wise I've seen 230 degrees in 90 degree stop and go. Dunno if the header wrap plays a part or not. The main reason I did it was to insulate the heat baking the Penske shock. Also supposidly there is a bit of a power boost. (Hotter exhaust gases = higher gas viscosity = faster flow = more go)

Maybe I should start saving pennies for a Motad.

MD

[Davidlong]

Auspañol, on Jul 10 2008, 07:27 AM, said:

Hey David... fancy seeing you here!!! I want to stick a switch on mine as well, in the same way, hopefully Combine Pilot can give us a run down for the electronically cchallenged...

I'm glad too. Shall we meet in "A ver que os parece: SurVfr"? I am not so sure they could deal with...

This post has been edited by Davidlong: 16 July 2008 - 10:42 AM

[Joe Foe from Buffalo]

Anyone have info on this working on a Gen 4 (94-97)?

[Joe Foe from Buffalo]

Well the 2000 and 1997's use the same fan blade part #'s (67875-001)....Hmmm........? I wonder if it the VTR fan blade 19020-MBB-003 will help my Gen 4 / 97.......................?
Gen 4 Radiator

Gen 5 Radiator


I'm thinking no cause the fan on my 97 faces forward compared to the side on 2000. Anyone have two cents to offer on this?

[JES_VFR]

Joe Foe from Buffalo, on Jul 17 2008, 09:31 PM, said:

Well the 2000 and 1997's use the same fan blade part #'s (67875-001)....Hmmm........? I wonder if it the VTR fan blade 19020-MBB-003 will help my Gen 4 / 97.......................?
Gen 4 Radiator

Gen 5 Radiator


I'm thinking no cause the fan on my 97 faces forward compared to the side on 2000. Anyone have two cents to offer on this?

The other part of that Joe is that on your 94 the correct all the time flow of air is in from the front, through the rad and out through the fan.
having your fan run in a sucker configuration there is in the same flow as if it was au natureal.
on the later versions using a sucker blade is counter to the natural flow and causes issues.

[Joe Foe from Buffalo]

Ya datz what I was thinkin. Or I could flip the VTR blades and they would work better then my originals is more my idea on this possible Gen4 mod. I'm just not sure if they will still fit or how much better the air flow is.

This post has been edited by Joe Foe from Buffalo: 18 July 2008 - 08:28 AM