[Trace]

I installed FactoryPro's "Evo Star" shift kit this past weekend. http://www.factorypro.com/

It's a straightforward install, technically simple but somewhat time-consuming when combined with chain replacement. On the other hand, it's a good excuse to do the whole left-side area: cleaning gook, new parts, new chain and sprockets, and a really, really thorough oil change!!

Most of the work is nicely documented in this How-To Guide, http://www.vfrdiscus...?showtopic=7886 , with the exception of the heart of the matter, the star wheel (detent wheel, shifter cam, etc). I assume this part was not available when the how-to was performed. This star piece is the final step before you start to reassemble the whole thing. It's simple, except that you will need a 6mm hex bit (allen) to reach in and unbolt and properly re-torque the bolt. Torque is 23 n-m/17 ft-lbs, and threads of bolt and shaft must be clean, dry and Loctited. So, you'll also need some brake cleaner to spray into the bolt hole. You'll find a small dowel behind the stock star. Remove it from the shaft that you see when you remove the star, and put it in the new star. Then you simply put the new star in the obviously correct location (where the little dowel goes), install bolt with Loctite, torque.

I also replaced the shifter shaft seal in the linkage cover. Mine wasn't leaking except for typical seepage. That seal catches hell due to dirt, constant reversal of shaft rotation, side loading...all of which lets fine grit into the seal. Anyway, might as well replace a 4 dollar part while it's all apart, just like the water pump gasket (o-ring).

The result? Very, very nice. Shifts are "shorter", easier, less clunky, faster, more positive....less false neutrals, whatever you want to call it. I highly recommend this mod if you like to really zip through the gearbox. Clutchless and throttle-on/stab-clutch powershifts are far less scary. YMMV.

All,

I'm re-posting the photos of the stock parts vs. the FactoryPro stuff, and a shot of the inside of the case where the star wheel goes. I didn't realize that deleting the pics from "My Album" would kill 'em on the thread. A few guys PMd me to ask for the pics, otherwise I wouldn't have known. Thanks HS for straightening me out.

A little tip: That little dowel pin that indexes with the star wheel is a funny thing (you see it at 1 o'clock in the pic, but it can be anywhere, depending on what gear you're in). I could NOT get the new wheel to engage it when I placed it on the shaft and turned it a bit, expecting it to "drop in". I was in the 'uh-oh, damn, doesn't fit!!' stage, when I simply pulled the pin out of the shaft with needlenose pliers, put it in the hole on the back of the star wheel, and PRESTO, everything lined up just peachy fine.

After a month or so of doing this mod, along with the SERIOUS oil change that goes along with it (good to the last drop!), I'm satisfied that my $200 was well spent.

Snick, snick.....

border='0' alt='user posted image' />
compare--stock vs. evo star stuff (on right)


border='0' alt='user posted image' />
inside of case where star wheel goes

[WERA910]

Thanks for the update. This is a mod I promissed I would perform after I blew up a transmission at Barber last year... but still haven't done. And, to add insult, I just bought the kit for my track bike, so the poor VFR is not getting all the goodies that it gets... sad.

Some day soon.

[Trace]

Here's the stock star on the left, new unit on right, with matching detent arms. Spring is a tiny bit thicker than the stocker, a bit more positive detent pressure, but no strain on the top of your foot, by any means.


border='0' alt='user posted image' />
shifter wheel comparison


And here's the case, with the star (and everything else) removed. You can see the little dowel pin in the end of the shaft. You pull it out with needlenose pliers (comes right out) and put it in hole on the back of the new star, otherwise the star won't engage it for some mysterious reason. Once that's done, it's fine. Threads in the center of shaft get cleaned, dried, and the bolt Loctited.


border='0' alt='user posted image' />
shifter case


Of course, pictures don't really mean anything, I just figgered you guys would want to see what your $199 gets ya.

This post has been edited by Trace: 07 September 2005 - 01:24 PM

[SAFE-T]

I had just gotten used to my VFR's gearbox when I took a friend's Suzuki for a ride and it reminded me the Honda isn't as clean shifting as some other bikes Maybe I'll have to spring for this over the winter.

[vfrgreg]

SAFE-T, on Sep 8 2005, 03:17 AM, said:

Maybe I'll have to spring for this over the winter.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thats a very bad double entendre...

<_<

<_<

:D

[Jetpilot5]

Glad to see some people are still getting a little use out of the Shift Kit Install guide I did a while back. When I put the kit in my 99, the star wheel upgrade wasn't available. Even without it, there was a significant improvement in shifting. I can only imagine the new star wheel would make it even better.

Thanks for the description and posting the pictures.

[Trace]

Jetpilot5-

Your "How To" for 99 percent of this install was most excellent, thank you very much. My 1 percent contribution for the star wheel was easy, after all of your hard work in the original write-up and pictures.

And yes, this is a very good mod. Snick, snick!

[wera803]

The original detent arm kit was only about $90. This new one with the star wheel is $200!!!! Is it really worth the extra money??? Wonder what kind of difference between the two of them?? (besides $110)

[cassandtim]

Will this work for 6th Gen VFR's?

[Trace]

wera--

I don't reckon I can answer that question, but frankly, when I first saw Jetpilot5's report, I wondered how the $90 kit with just a fancier detent arm and a spring could really make a difference. When I went to FactoryPro's website to learn about the $90 kit and then saw that the kit now had a new star, I ordered one instanlty. To me, the reshaped star makes total sense, and the arm/spring items only enhance the star's improvement.

Is it worth $200? Was the orginal kit worth $90? Does the $110 matter if it works? Well, you couldn't give me $500 to take it out, so......what's it worth?

"You pays your money, you takes your choice."

[Trace]

cassandtim, on Sep 8 2005, 11:13 AM, said:

Will this work for 6th Gen VFR's?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

According to their website, YES. http://www.factorypro.com/

[wera803]

Trace, on Sep 8 2005, 11:26 AM, said:

wera--

I don't reckon I can answer that question, but frankly, when I first saw Jetpilot5's report, I wondered how the $90 kit with just a fancier detent arm and a spring could really make a difference.  When I went to FactoryPro's website to learn about the $90 kit and then saw that the kit now had a new star, I ordered one instanlty.  To me, the reshaped star makes total sense, and the arm/spring items only enhance the star's improvement. 

Is it worth $200?  Was the orginal kit worth $90?  Does the $110 matter if it works?  Well, you couldn't give me $500 to take it out, so......what's it worth?

"You pays your money, you takes your choice."

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think the $90 kit makes a difference basically because of the roller part of it. By putting a better bearing on it, it allows for smoother shifts. Kind of like running a roller camshaft instead of a hydraulic lifter. Maybe the star profile makes smoother transitions as well, which is why it works so well.

That is one heck of an endorsement you gave for it. I guess instead of offering you $500 for yours, I'll just save my penny's and buy one for $200.

[wera803]

WERA910, on Sep 7 2005, 08:49 AM, said:

Thanks for the update.  This is a mod I promissed I would perform after I blew up a transmission at Barber last year...  but still haven't done.  And, to add insult, I just bought the kit for my track bike, so the poor VFR is not getting all the goodies that it gets...      sad. 

Some day soon.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Did you get the whole star wheel kit or just the detent arm?? Where did you find it cheap?? I can't believe you would pay full price for it. We have been hanging around each other way to much to believe that.

[Trace]

wera and everybody--

As for my endorsement of this mod, yes, I heartily recommend it. I think that for a mere $200 bucks, it's a very nice mod that directly affects your enjoyment every time you ride, every time you shift. The more you shift, the more you can amortize that $200. 200 nice shifts--a buck apiece. 1000 nice shift--20 cents each, and so on. The next time you're hammering up thru the gears, how much would you pay for each false neutral that you didn't hit?

I seriously think this mod has plenty of "enjoyment factor", maybe better than most other mods that cost $400, 800, 1200. But then, like everything else, to each his own.

NOW--will this mod make your bike shift like the sequential tranny in an F430 Ferrari? Nope. Will it shift noticeably better? Yep.

This post has been edited by Trace: 08 September 2005 - 12:05 PM

[tok tokkie]

The bore of the Factory Pro star wheel looks much smaller than the stockie in your photo. Must be an optical illusion since it all fitted together no problem.
What is to prevent you from simply replacing the plain wheel on the stock arm with a ball bearing? I appreciate that you will not have the revised star wheel profile & slightly stiffer spring. Factory Pro is unlikely to be available to me here.

[Veefer800Canuck]

tok tokkie, on Sep 9 2005, 02:14 AM, said:

Factory Pro is unlikely to be available to me here.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Their website lists no distributor in South Africa, however, they state that you can order direct from them at this email addy:

mailto: international@factorypro.com

Website here:

http://www.factorypro.com/

[Trace]

tok tokkie, on Sep 9 2005, 04:14 AM, said:

The bore of the Factory Pro star wheel looks much smaller than the stockie in your photo.  Must be an optical illusion since it all fitted together no problem.
What is to prevent you from simply replacing the plain wheel on the stock arm with a ball bearing?  I appreciate that you will not have the revised star wheel profile & slightly stiffer spring.  Factory Pro is unlikely to be available to me here.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

tok--
1) The bore is not an issue, and it might be an optical "delusion" from the photo. In fact, the smaller bore of the FactoryPro might even be better, as long as the bolt fits (which it does, of course). But anyway, non-issue.

2) Homemade arm bearing--Well, I guess you COULD do this, once you do the research to find the right bearing and be 101% sure that you've proberly sweged it to the arm. But then what do you have? These three parts make a system that works....by leaving two of them out might not be worth your time.

3) Instead, spend your time getting the kit direct from FactoryPro (I can't imagine why they wouldn't send it to you!) or enlist the help of one of your VFRD brothers to buy it and ship it to you. Maybe you will become the South Africa distribution rep!!

[joe603]

Do you still get that CLUNK! when shifting down to 1st once she's warm? What about stopping the reluctance to shift into 1st from neutral?

[Trace]

joe603,

The clunk to 1st is still there and always will be. That's your internal tranny guts&gears coming to a halt after spinning with the clutch released while in neutral. You'd better HOPE you get that clunk, otherwise your trans is not there....

As for shifting from 1st to neutral, that's EXACTLY what this kit is intended to reduce, and it does a good job of it. I shifted to N last weekend, but I know it was due to pilot error and laziness, not the kit. Strong upward foot pressure and proper clutch work (or throttle work) is still required. Nothing is free. But, the kit makes it so good technique is rewarded with good shifts, not false neutrals.

[joe603]

Trace this is a bit off topic, but I just noticed that you have a ?03 Z06...I was going back and forth between getting a bike or a Z06. (Chose the bike)

[vfrmonkey]

I loved this mod, may as well swap the CS sprocket while ya got it off - 100% best bang for your buck...

[tok tokkie]

Trace, on Sep 9 2005, 04:22 PM, said:

tok--
3)? Instead, spend your time getting the kit direct from FactoryPro (I can't imagine why they wouldn't send it to you!) or enlist the help of one of your VFRD brothers to buy it and ship it to you.? Maybe you will become the South Africa distribution rep!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

There are three problems with getting stuff sent in:
1. Customs duty. I once brought in a load of CD's direct from Rhino. The duties ended up at THREE times the cost of the CD's. At that stage you simply have to pay.
2. Theft in our post office. A national scandel a while ago but much improved over the last few years.
3. Paying for the things. I ordered a pair of binoculars from a US site about 4 months ago & they said my credit card would not work. The big places like Amazon have no problem with it but smaller places seem to have difficulty.

So I hope to get my binoculars this month through a person comming to Cape Town on a visit. Huge advantage as he has the binoculars as part of his stuff so no customs duty problem.
Any VFRD members comming to Cape Town let me know. Can use my bike (when it's fixed as I dropped it last month). I particularly would like to do BLS 'titanium butt' mod.

You guys really have something in EBay that I envy.

Finally, I like to make things myself. I have a cnc mill so could easily make the spider wheel myself; it is just a matter of time & priorities.

This post has been edited by tok tokkie: 09 September 2005 - 11:34 AM

[Trace]

joe603, on Sep 9 2005, 10:07 AM, said:

Trace this is a bit off topic, but I just noticed that you have a ?03 Z06...I was going back and forth between getting a bike or a Z06.  (Chose the bike) 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

joe--The Z-06 is an amazing car. So fast, yet so docile in city traffic, highway, etc. Great mileage at about 24-26 mpg if you just drive "normal" at 70 mph. CD player plays, A/C blows cold air, seats are comfly, lots of luggage space. Long trips are effortless, as are trips to the supermarket, and on top of all that, it will go 11.80 in the quarter and climb to over 170 mph. It has no irritating qualities and does everything well. Kinda like a VFR.....

[joe603]

Trace, on Sep 9 2005, 01:09 PM, said:

joe--The Z-06 is an amazing car.  So fast, yet so docile in city traffic, highway, etc.  Great mileage at about 24-26 mpg if you just drive "normal" at 70 mph.  CD player plays, A/C blows cold air, seats are comfly, lots of luggage space.  Long trips are effortless, as are trips to the supermarket, and on top of all that, it will go 11.80 in the quarter and climb to over 170 mph.  It has no irritating qualities and does everything well.  Kinda like a VFR.....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

oh sure...rub it in! I had the chance to get a 383 stroker with all the extras on an '01 for 31k...A part of me wishes I did; man that car was a beast!!!

[Trace]

joe603, on Sep 9 2005, 02:45 PM, said:

oh sure...rub it in!? I had the chance to get a 383 stroker with all the extras on an '01 for 31k...A part of me wishes I did; man that car was a beast!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah, those strokers worked good, except that you may have dodged a bullet. The weak link at the time, and still is to some extent, is the clutch. Lotsa problems with grip and longevity, including the odd LS1/6 engine balancing game. I know guys who actually SOLD their cars and bought a new stocker just to get away from the clutch/throwout/master cylinder nightmare they had created. Not available at the time, the new (02-up) Z clutch became the best bet for most applications.

And now, most tuners are doing 427s, using the "Australian" clutch.

As for me, I'm working the issues to get a 2006 Z. No mods needed. Ever!

Okay, now back to VFRs.

This post has been edited by Trace: 09 September 2005 - 03:46 PM

[enzed_viffer]

All right!
My shift kit is now installed and working (yet to be road-tested). The install was pretty straightforward, thanx to Trace's and Jetpilot's great illustrated instructions. The only hard parts were getting the fairing panel off (despite having done it twice before, it was still a pain, thanx to the plastic clips), and removing a vast quantity of impacted chain spooge from behind the countershaft cover.

No pix, I'm afraid, as the bike is so embarassingly grubby, and I have nothing much to add to the already detailed instructions previously posted.

This post has been edited by enzed_viffer: 11 June 2007 - 04:01 PM

[dude]

This is a mod i have been meaning to do the last 2 winters and never got around to it.
I guess it was " mine shifts fine" although i've had more than a few false neutrals between 5th and 6th... not good.
I rode a a friends 6th gen a couple times and noticed an immediate difference in the "short throw" of the 6th gen over my 5th. The shifting on his bike was smooth and short. I loved it. I wonder would this install compare to the smoother , shorter shifting on the 6th gen? Anyone? Trace?
Thx for an excellent report Trace
Gary

[enzed_viffer]

dude, on Oct 10 2005, 09:06 AM, said:

This is a mod i have been meaning to do the last 2 winters and never got around to it.
I guess it was " mine shifts fine" although i've had more than a few false neutrals between 5th and 6th... not good.
I rode a a friends 6th gen a couple times and noticed an immediate difference in the "short throw" of the 6th gen over my 5th. The shifting on his bike was smooth and short. I loved it. I wonder would this install compare to the smoother , shorter shifting on the 6th gen? Anyone? Trace?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Anyone here.
I test-rode a 6th gen and my current bike back-to-back, and they were very similar (should be - they share all except gear ratios), and both very slick.
The reason I ordered the shifter kit is that most of my riding is commuting around town, which in itself is hard on transmissions (lots of gear changes, lots of accelerating/decellerating, etc.) and I think I'm a serial transmission wrecker.
The gear change was starting to lose its precision, and as it's the best shifting Honda I've ever owned, I was rather alarmed, so I figured (based on the reports) that the kit may help me retain most of the slickness of the gearbox, and help to avoid further trashing of the whirly bits.
I'll post more when I get to road-test it.

[enzed_viffer]

enzed_viffer, on Oct 10 2005, 09:56 AM, said:

I'll post more when I get to road-test it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Road test completed.
It works: Snickety-Snick.

I'm not sure if it's due to cleaning all the spooge off the bike, the new erl (Mobil 1), or that star thingo (technical term).

Should I replace them one at a time till I work out which one did the trick?

[Trace]

enzed_viffer, on Oct 11 2005, 04:02 PM, said:

I'm not sure if it's due to cleaning all the spooge off the bike, the new erl (Mobil 1), or that star thingo (technical term).

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It's clearly due to spooge removal!! :D

dude---I have no time on a 6th, so I can't compare/comment. But it did improve the snickfeel of my relatively low-mileage 2000, FWIW.