[ratfink]

I found out that if you remove the triangle shaped plates in the rear suspension and rotate them, you can lower the rear of the bike about 3/4" for free and in about 20 minutes. My wife who is 5'2" can now ride her bike and reach. I also have mine lowered so I can run my preload a little higher.


suspension plate mod

[ratfink]

Kurt V, on Mar 17 2005, 06:57 AM, said:

Thanks!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

There is an arrow that is suppose to go to front. I think it ended up pointing up, but can't remember for sure. Basically you want the short point going to the shock, and the long point going to the dogbone.

[pseal]

I measured my "triangle" and found the following:

AB and AC are equal, and BC is shorter than both of those. Which two points should the shorter dimension connect in order to accomplish this lowering?

Thanks,
Payne

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

[BaileyRock]

This is a cool and quick Mod, but will also affect the Link ratio of the shock in some way. Can't throw it off to much though, but it will be working the shock a little different. This was one of the things mentioned by Phil at AfterShocks when using a CBR shock on a VFR, they run a different Link ratio resulting in slightly different valving !
I think it's partly the VFR's link Ratio that requires a much heavier spring than most, not just because of the pigish weight !

[ratfink]

pseal, on Oct 9 2005, 02:00 PM, said:

I measured my "triangle" and found the following:

AB and AC are equal, and BC is shorter than both of those.  Which two points should the shorter dimension connect in order to accomplish this lowering?

Thanks,
Payne

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The arrows on the plates should point up and toward the rear.

[Tonys-G]

I just got a 2002 VFR800 and am planning on getting the sargent seat to help me reach with my 30" inseam, I was interested in this change since you done have to buy a new dogbone or make any kind of radical change, my question is do move the triangle so that the shorter side is between the dogbone and the shock
or in the picture B and C is now where A and B were.

also I can almost reach now so these two changes hopfully will be good for me, would I also need to lower the front forks or can I elave them as is?

Thanks for and feedback

Tony

[pseal]

You want the arrows pointing up and toward the rear. So, from the left (sprocket) side of the bike, rotate ~120? clockwise.

I didn't move the fork tubes, and the bike feels the same to me as before, so I'll probably leave them as they are.

I'm pleased with the results. Can't beat the price (free!), and the drop is noticeable, but not drastic. Very quick and easy to do (though the bolts took a ton of force to break loose), and completely undoable. I found that this increased the sag, so I bumped the preload up a couple of clicks. I'm a little nervous at how upright the bike sits on the sidestand, but I think it'll be OK.

Cheers to Ratfink for pointing this out to us!

Payne

[enzed_viffer]

There's another potential option, which may be used in conjunction with the "triangular plates method", or on its own.
On the Gen5 VFRs, the eccentric in the rear hub is positioned so that with a normal chain/sprockets, the eccentric is below the swingarm. There was a mod publicised some time ago for earlier model VFRs that involved reversing the eccentric so it was in this position, which had the effect of raising the rear of the bike and quickening the steering somewhat. I tried this on my 1990 VFR, and it worked well, raising the rear by (IIRC) about an inch. I'd imagine that the reverse is possible, and that rotating the eccentric on the 5th/6th gen bikes so it is in the 'normal' position for the earlier generation VFRs would lower the rear by about an inch.
I have a suspicion in the back of my tiny mind though, that there might be a problem with some bolts somewhere in the hub blocking complete rotation. This wasn't a problem on the earlier models, but IIRC it could be on later models.
Worth a try!
Oh - and before someone asks - the procedure is:
1. Loosen the pinch bolt on rear hub.
2. Rotate the eccentric adjuster to loosen the chain, but keep going, and going.
3. Eventually (if there's no bolts or summat else in the way), the chain will start to get tight again, as the eccentric passes the horizontal plane and starts going back up past the swingarm.
4. Adjust chain to correct tightness.
5. Tighten pinch bolt.

Of course, if there's some impediment to all this, ignore steps 1-5.

[?art West-VL.]

Thanks!
Did it and I'm more confident now.
I can just get my heels on the floor now.
I did soften it to number one
and softened the front to the third ring too.
I rotated the damping of the rear shock completely out (ccw)

Did I do something wrong? I'm trying to get the bike to steer better at lower speeds, short turns, but cannot seem to find the right setting yet, without compromising comfort.
(Still a beginner)

[HispanicSlammer]

?art West-VL., on Mar 19 2006, 05:38 AM, said:

Thanks!
Did it and I'm more confident now.
I can just get my heels on the floor now.
I did soften it to number one
and softened the front to the third ring too.
I rotated the damping of the rear shock completely out (ccw)

Did I do something wrong? I'm trying to get the bike to steer better at lower speeds, short turns, but cannot seem to find the right setting yet, without compromising comfort.
(Still a beginner)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you drop the rear but not the forks it will feel light up front, like its not hooking up, steering will suffer. You will have to crank off some preload up front to get it to feel right again, basically lowering the front along with the back. I have no idea how much you dropped the rear so I dont know how much to drop the front to match it.

[ULEWZ]

pseal, on Oct 9 2005, 02:00 PM, said:

I measured my "triangle" and found the following:

AB and AC are equal, and BC is shorter than both of those.? Which two points should the shorter dimension connect in order to accomplish this lowering?

Thanks,
Payne

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The distance between A and C should be a constant, and since A/C and A/B have the same distance, rotate the triangle 120 degrees so point A on the triangle is at point C on the bike, and so on.

[Alfster_1]

This may sound silly to some of you guys, but I'm gonna ask anyway..... hehe

I have been riding since I was about 12, and have done a lot of bike work, but never any work on the rear shocks.

Since I am a midget...... I would like to try this quick lowering technique to see how it works out.

Is there any pressure on these bolts holding the triangular plates ? Do I need to block something, or place a jack under something before I remove the bolts ?

Thanks in advance.

Alfster

[ratfink]

Alfster_1, on Mar 19 2006, 10:11 PM, said:

This may sound silly to some of you guys, but I'm gonna ask anyway.....  hehe

I have been riding since I was about 12, and have done a lot of bike work, but never any work on the rear shocks.

Since I am a midget......   I would like to try this quick lowering technique to see how it works out.

Is there any pressure on these bolts holding the triangular plates ?  Do I need to block something, or place a jack under something before I remove the bolts ?

Thanks in advance.

Alfster

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

put the bike on the center stand and put a 1x4 or something under the tire. It's makes it easier to get the first bolt out, and the first bolt in when you rotate it. You can use the 1x4 as a lever to raise the tire to the proper hieght and then either prop the 1x4 with something, or has someone else hold it for you.

[BaileyRock]

?art West-VL., on Mar 19 2006, 06:38 AM, said:

I did soften it to number one
and softened the front to the third ring too.
I rotated the damping of the rear shock completely out (ccw)

Did I do something wrong? I'm trying to get the bike to steer better at lower speeds, short turns, but cannot seem to find the right setting yet, without compromising comfort.
(Still a beginner)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes, dropping the rear without dropping the front end the same amount will cause steering to slow by streaching out the forks forward. Can't remember if that's increasing or decreasing rake term wise. This is the opposite of what most people will do !

You want to set proper SAG to your weight for best/safest performance, not to get you feet on the ground. Removing all the rebound (CCW) from the rear shock will most likely cause some pogoing with no dampning to keep the spring for popping back up.

[SAFE-T]

baileyrock, on Mar 20 2006, 10:40 PM, said:

Yes, dropping the rear without dropping the front end the same amount will cause steering to slow by streaching out the forks forward.  Can't remember if that's increasing or decreasing rake term wise.

This will increase rake.

http://www.sportride...h/146_0310_art/

[MegaMan]

I did this mod last week and it works great, I plan to do the front this weekend, but I am unsure of how much to shorten the side stand. Does anybody know how much to take out and where the best place to cut is. I assume the best place is between the heel kick and the end of the stand, but if anybody knows better, please let me know. More importantly is how much to take out.

Thanks.

[borg]

I also performed this mod today, it took me longer than 20 min cause I'm all thumbs. Having said that, if I can do it then anyone can.

I had to read thru the thread a couple of times just so I have it straight, there was reference to a photo of the plates but for some reason I cant view the images. So I took a couple of photos...a before and after shots.

Assuming I did this right, this is what it looks like.
border='0' alt='user posted image' />
suspension plate mod

[borg]

The above procedure reduced the seat height by 1/2 an inch, so it does help those like me who are vertically challenged. With 30" inseam, I can now touch the ball of my feet to the ground after doing the mod.......now I have to get back in the garage and raise the forks accordingly.


Thanks for the useful tips.
borg

[Veefer800Canuck]

borg, on Apr 16 2006, 11:53 AM, said:

The above procedure reduced the seat height by 1/2 an inch, so it does help those like me who are vertically challenged.  With 30" inseam, I can now touch the ball of my feet to the ground after doing the mod.......now I have to get back in the garage and raise the forks accordingly.
Thanks for the useful tips.
borg

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Good going Borg, yeah, you got it right.

With raising the forks, beware your clearance between the front fender and the horn. Or at least I think the 6th gen horn is below the triple clamp like the 5th gen.

Anyhow, that is your area of concern. After raising the forks, when the bike is on the centerstand, take a floor jack, put it under the header pipes and lift the front end off the ground by a hair or two.

Measure the clearance between the fender and the nearest immovable object above. If it's more then 5.5", you should be fine. :thumbsup:

[borg]

veefer800canuck, on Apr 16 2006, 12:50 PM, said:

Good going Borg, yeah, you got it right.

With raising the forks, beware your clearance between the front fender and the horn. Or at least I think the 6th gen horn is below the triple clamp like the 5th gen.

Anyhow, that is your area of concern. After raising the forks, when the bike is on the centerstand, take a floor jack, put it under the header pipes and lift the front end off the ground by a hair or two.

Measure the clearance between the fender and the nearest immovable object above. If it's more then 5.5", you should be fine.  :thumbsup:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for the heads up.

Didnt get a chance to raise the forks yeaterday since I got busy with family commitment, I'll see if can find time today to do it. Is there a particular thread you can refer me to so I can read up on how to PROPERLY raise the forks?

Thanks again

[MegaMan]

Kurt V, on Apr 17 2006, 08:09 AM, said:

Even after lowering the front, my '01 leans over just fine with the side stand. It is a bit harder to get on the center stand now.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

When I lowered the rear, it was a bit harder to get on the centre stand. But now that I lowered the front as well, it is damn near impossible. On flat ground with the side stand down, the bike leans to about 85 degrees... not too far off 90 which is very scary.

My forks were sitting at 41mm from the top of the tree to the top of the fork tube (not the top of the cap). I figured that it was around a 1/2 inch drop in the back so I raised the fork tubes 12mm to make it even in the front. Now the front tubes are 53mm over the tree.

I also want the bike to dive into corners a little quicker, and from what I read, I may need to drop the forks another 5-10mm to get it to react the way I want.

Is this taking things too far??? Should I just put the rear back to the way it was before, or should I lower the front end another 10mm??? Any advice would be appreciated...

This post has been edited by MegaMan: 19 April 2006 - 04:16 PM

[MegaMan]

I did the kickstand last night. I took out a piece about 3/8 of an inch long, that, plus the 1/8 inch cuts from the zip blade, takes the total shortening to 5/8 of an inch. Lean angle is now closer to 80 degrees... I can now sleep at night.

ratfink, on Apr 19 2006, 02:24 PM, said:

I am sure you will find htat you don't need to lower front any further.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

By lowering the front, all I did was put the forks back to the stock angle, I rode the bike like this for the past 2 seasons but always wished I could flat foot it. I have been riding with the front and back lowered for the past week. I can now flat foot the bike, but the handling is exactly the same. To improve the handling I need to decrease the rake on my forks, which would be done through raising the rear, or lowering the front (more). I may end up raising the rear back to stock and getting my seat shaved so I can still flatfoot the bike. (or just shell out for a Sargent).

[Virray]

Just did the front to match the rear and I'm not noticing that big of a difference. I guess the next cheapest thing to do is have the seat shaved down about 1/2".

[lizard]

Well, I bit the bullet and spent $0.00 to lower my '00 VFR. Rotated the lower shock mount thingies (highly technical terminology for you lay persons) and slid the forks up in the trees. WOW, like magic...I can almost flatfoot with my 29" inseam! I guess I got the front lowered a tad more than the back because the turn in is somewhat quicker at slow speeds. Only got a short ride, hit a couple of nice "S" curves and nice on/off ramps for the local superslab and it steered slightly quicker, but still felt very stable. Tried a little low speed manuevering in a bank parking lot before everybody appeared to empty the ATM and thought I was on a much more sporty machine. The Viffer felt much lighter at low speeds!

I've been considering this for a few months and finally decided to try it because the spousal unit & I are taking the MSF Intermediate class next weekend. Yeah, here in SC we have beginner, intermediate and experienced classes. So many "goofballs" get a learner's permit and constantly renew it that they revised the beginner course and broke it into two classes. The beginner course uses their bikes and doesn't include the riding skills test. The intermediate course uses your bike and has the riding skills test. DMV "may" accept passing the intermediate course in lieu of a riding skills test administered at DMV but they don't have to. We're trying to get the spousal unit licensed so I will quit calling her "one of those goofballs on a permanent learners permit." :o

[?art West-VL.]

Hey Lizard,

I moved the forks only 5mm (0,2") up, and it doesn't feel any different (also did the "shock mount thingies" lowering thing <_<)
How much did you move the forks up, to feel the lighter steering?
This would really help me out because I will have to make new rings and want to get it right in one attempt.

?art

[lizard]

Bart,

I moved my forks up about 9/16" (14mm) and noticed an immediate difference turning at speeds less than 25mph. It was less noticeable at speeds over 35mph, but steers a little quicker than at higher speeds. Feels really good and makes the bike seem lighter at lower speeds while still being stable in the turns.

I know that sounds like a lot, but I rotated the rear lower shock mounts which lowered the back end about 7/16". I wound up with the front lowered about 1/8" (3-4mm) more than the rear.

?art West-VL., on May 6 2006, 03:39 AM, said:

Hey Lizard,

I moved the forks only 5mm (0,2") up, and it doesn't feel any different (also did the "shock mount thingies" lowering thing <_<)
How much did you move the forks up, to feel the lighter steering?
This would really help me out because I will have to make new rings and want to get it right in one attempt.

          ?art

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[Veefer800Canuck]

vf, on May 6 2006, 09:45 PM, said:

I may be crazy, but i'll ask anyway.  I would like to lower my VFR further would you guys not suggest i prefab some more "triangles to lower the rear a further 1/2" ???? 

Any thoughts?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It does alter the shock linkage ratio, so the leverage of the swingarm over the shock is affected.

Not sure which way, look further up the thread and there was some postulating on the effects.

[?art West-VL.]

lizard,

Thanks for the clear reply...
Would the lowering on a VFR 2005 also be 7/16 on rotating the triangles?
Didn't measure that when doing the mod.
I thought I read somewhere on this forum, that it's about 20m lower for a 2005, can't remember for sure.

What did you do with the side stand? My bike already stands quite right up, a bit scary. And now that I will lower it even further, I was wondering how you, or someone else, fixed that with the side stand.
(Did everyone do it like MegaMan?)

Is a steering damper needed, when the forks are changed that much?
I think the bike might be more sensitive to shaking , when the angle of the forks is changed?



to be continued...

[lizard]

Bart,

I haven't addressed the sidestand yet. I'm probably going to shorten it because the bike seems almost upright.

I haven't had a chance to ride since my quick test ride on Friday night, it didn't seem like I would need a steering damper, but it will take more riding to see for sure. Weather looks good for the next couple of days, so I'll probably ride to work tomorrow & Tuesday. :D

?art West-VL., on May 7 2006, 08:36 AM, said:

lizard,

Thanks for the clear reply...
Would the lowering on a VFR 2005 also be 7/16 on rotating the triangles?
Didn't measure that when doing the mod.
I thought I read somewhere on this forum, that it's about 20m lower for a 2005, can't remember for sure.

What did you do with the side stand? My bike already stands quite right up, a bit scary. And now that I will lower it even further, I was wondering how you, or someone else, fixed that with the side stand.
(Did everyone do it like MegaMan?)

Is a steering damper needed, when the forks are changed that much?
I think the bike might be more sensitive to shaking , when the angle of the forks is changed?
to be continued...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>