vfrdiscussion.com http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:31:44 +0000 15 ]]> http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58317-having-posting-pm-issues/ PM's will show this error:
"The following errors were found
You must enter a message larger than 3 characters."
This personal message has not been sent

When the "post' button is hit in thread post it just don't work on the first attempt, it just goes to the home page or similar instead w/o adding the post. I have to Back page to find my response again and re-hit the Post button and it almost always works the second time.

Anyone having a similar issue or and members reporting similar issues???

BR]]> Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:31:44 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58317-having-posting-pm-issues/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58316-mag-knight-tank-protector/

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]]> Tue, 16 Mar 2010 21:34:35 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58316-mag-knight-tank-protector/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58315-clutch-problem-please-help/ I have a 98 and would like to know what that sound is that's clattering around in the front when I start to slowly let go of the clutch.If I have the clutch touching the bar it will not do this.ONLY when I start to let the clutch out a tad and if I work the clutch lever in and out around the same spot.Any answewrs for me would be awesome.Thanks,Sparkyd31]]> Tue, 16 Mar 2010 19:20:57 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58315-clutch-problem-please-help/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58314-83-vf750f-camshaft-installation-problems/
First post here so hello, my name is Quinn and I like motorcycles. There, I said it out loud but I refuse to recover!

I was given a '83 VF750f by a very good friend of mine. The stipulation was that I finish putting it back together and he would send me the title. So in between raising an 18 month old and getting ready for another to soon be born I'm finally getting some work done on the top end.

Unfortunately the only manual I have is a Clymer and it's confusing as hell. Not what I'm used to at all. over the weekend I started installing the camshafts per the manuals instruction, I think. I installed the rear cylinder cams first without too much trouble.

Began working on the front cams and low and behold there is not enough slack in the chain to install them. The manual is fairly useless and I don't see any external cam chain tensioner adjustments to make things easy. I'm sure it's not as difficult as I'm making it so I'm seeking the expertise of those who've got some experience with these old beauties.

Thanks much,

Quinn]]> Tue, 16 Mar 2010 17:21:20 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58314-83-vf750f-camshaft-installation-problems/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58313-6th-generation-givi-fz166/ Tue, 16 Mar 2010 17:06:37 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58313-6th-generation-givi-fz166/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58312-red-fox-hugger/ simpson-detour (who aquired Red-Fox). i checked them out and sent an email asking for some details on their product. i got an IMMEDIATE response with answers to all my questions. they verified they would do 10% off for VFRD members and i placed my order. i was expecting at least a two week wait for it to arrive from across the big water, but TEN DAYS LATER i was installing my new hugger!! i hit a hitch in the installation (my own fault), emailed them, and once again got an instant answer. i'm very happy with the price, product and most importantly, their customer service.

it kinda looked like a HAM when i picked it up from the post office!!

RedFox1.jpg


RedFox9.jpg


RedFox8.jpg

not bad for under $130!]]> Tue, 16 Mar 2010 14:53:09 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58312-red-fox-hugger/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58311-pipes-boots-and-zumo/
just for kicks, i had my dealer check pricing on a set of Leo Vince pipes. i've had them in the past and have been happy with their quality and sound. he looked them up and said he could get them for $655 - not bad - then he looked again and said $532 and there was ONE set left in the warehouse. i said "order them"!!


DSC_0406.JPG


also, i've been looking for some low cut boots and decided to try the new Alpinestars Afrikas. he ordered them for me as well. that put me up to $700.


Afrika.jpg


then, i logon to this wonderful place and find that member solohvs is selling his Zumo 550 for $300. i jumped on it as well!! thanks solovhs.

now my $1k is gone, but i have pipes, boots AND a Zumo to show for it! more pix in my galleries here and on picasaweb. Zumo pix coming soon.]]> Tue, 16 Mar 2010 14:39:33 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58311-pipes-boots-and-zumo/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58310-front-sprocket/ my front sprocket keeps locking up therfor i cant ride the bike it locks up even in neutral with th clutch in.... any ideas what this could be ?????????????? Tue, 16 Mar 2010 10:46:45 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58310-front-sprocket/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58309-i-search-for-broken-case-givikappa/ ]]> Tue, 16 Mar 2010 09:45:07 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58309-i-search-for-broken-case-givikappa/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58308-balance-beads/ What are the pros and cons of balanceing your wheels and tires with the beads as opposed to the weights? Tue, 16 Mar 2010 09:35:06 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58308-balance-beads/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58307-4th-gen-spotted/ ]]> Tue, 16 Mar 2010 04:48:45 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58307-4th-gen-spotted/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58306-experiences-of-a-pcv-with-autotune-on-a-2004-vfr800/
***

Background

I was actually quite a happy-chappy with my VFR - the mods I had performed had already smoothed out the VTEC transition (though it wasn't bad to begin with), and response down low wasn't too bad either. My main complaint, if I was to have one, was the abruptness of the throttle control in 1st gear which made low speed work a chore (and I would normally cheat by feathering the clutch). I decided to grab a PCV (and eventually autotune) partially because it would hopefully make the bike even better at those infamous points, but also inspired by CodeRighter's efforts I decided 'why the hell not'. I guess in part this post is part of that why-the-hell-not process .

I decided to buy my PCV and Autotune from the USA rather than locally - yeah, I know, frowned on by the power that be (Dynojet) but the reason was very simple - price. I don't have unlimited funds to throw about, and frankly the cost of purchasing those little boxes locally is crazy. On a good day I was looking at $AUD550 to 600 for the PCV, and another $450 to 500 for the Autotune. That means if I was getting it as cheap as I could I would be looking in the region of $AUD1000. In recent currency terms (with the $AU buying about 90 US cents) I was look at about $USD 900 if I bought locally. If I bought from the USA I was looking at about $USD 500 plus another $40 in postage (or $AUD 600, a $AUD 400 saving!). So in order to save myself some significant cash I obviously took the order from the US route. Yeah, yeah, no warranty or official support - but both parts would have to fail (and I order replacements) for me to only just be out of pocket compared to if I bought locally. I am all for supporting local business, and normally do so when possible, but I don't support price gouging by importers with an exclusive deal. I recommend to anyone else who would benefit from significant savings by buying internationally to do so .

As I was going to order from the US and I was in a penny pinching mood I ordered the PCV first and the Autotune about a month later (basically to pick up the items when there was a good deal on each of them). This meant I ran the PCV for over 4 weeks just by itself, and that alone taught me a few interesting things which I shall share shortly. As such, I will also break this part up into a PCV section and an Autotune section (hopefully that will also be more helpful to those not interested in the Autotune).


Going into this modification bonanza I had made a few relevant alterations to my bike (most of which are pretty much universal).

• Disabled the PAIR system
  
• Removed snorkel
  
• Disabled flapper
  
• K&N air filter

Otherwise, from an engine and mapping perspective, she was stock (so it still had the original exhaust).


PCV - Install and setup

Installation of the PCV (and PCIII) have been covered elsewhere, and as those guides point out, it's very simple.

All you really need to do is remove your rear seat to find some place to put the little red and black box (being non-ABS I placed mine behind the rear brake fluid reservoir, but it is small enough that you can place it in a number of good spots). Then lift your tank, fish out the designated cable connection (should be just behind the frame on the right hand) - disconnect this connector and plug it into the PCV. Now install the supplied O2 eliminators on the left hand side (you will likely need to remove the fairing for this). I tried to ensure that the now exposed O2 sensor plugs were still shielded inside the rubber electrical connector protector, but you could tape them up for extra peace of mind. After that you attach the ground wire to the negative terminal on the battery and you are set. Luckily the device comes with a pictorial instruction set showing you exactly how to do this, so you really cannot go wrong.


Where my PCV lives

Once you have done that you are good to go. There are other wires you will need to hook up for more advanced features (in particular tapping into the speed sensor for map-by-gearing and the temp sensor for... well, engine temp. but I will get to those later as their value is limited without the autotune).

Hookup your PCV to your (Windows) laptop, load the software and it should automatically pull down the map pre-loaded onto the device. Now things alter a little for the 2002-2005 bikes (as the map comes preloaded with the 2006+ map). You will need to upload a new (suitable map) before you take it for a test drive, mostly due to the VTEC transition point changes (and probably a few other tweaks Honda implemented on the 2006+ ECU). With the latest version of the PCV software this is a piece of cake - simply download the suitable PCIII map and use the inbuilt converter - easier than doing by hand (as I had to). Once that is uploaded you are good to go! You may also want to check your throttle position settings and give it a run on the centre stand with your laptop plugged in, just to check that everything is working correctly.


PCV - Usage report (or, WTF is this thing doing!?!)

I personally decided to play it conservative and loaded up the default Dynojet 2002 map. I planned on eventually giving Cozye's map a go until I obtained an Autotune. To my surprise, and horror, the default map ran like absolute crap. It's hard to find words which described the horror of it's operation, but it was shocking. Surging all over the place, bucking and general bad, bad running. Realising that when diagnosing fuel mixture problems it's 'better' to go too rich then too lean, I decided to richen up the map (theory being that if it got worse, or failed to improve, I would lean it up instead - I had noticed the default map was considerably richer then Cozye's). This helped the problem, it was better behaved (but still clearly unhappy), but as you can imagine, fuel consumption went to the dogs. It had me stumped, the bike was fine before I installed the PCV, and the only other change at the time was the O2 elims (which are needed as per the Dynojet instructions). Clearly there was too much air in there, causing it to run lean. The only other clue I had was it was much worse below 6000RPM then above.

Resolved to solve the issue, I decided to start restoring parts of the bike to stock to see if some other change had caused the problems. Seeing as there are not many relevant changes made to my bike I decided to do it in two steps - first the flapper and snorkel, if that didn't work, the PAIR system and air filter (I planned on returning the air filter to the OEM model eventually anyway, but I'll cover why at a later point).

First up, flapper and snorkel. Up goes the tank and I man-handle those two back to their original function. I take the bike for a test ride and suddenly - wow, fixed! Still a little grumpy at me, but night and day type change from before - I safely put the remaining grumpiness down to the current map just being a default one rather than a map tweaked or custom made for the setup. My theory is that the flapper was at fault (because frankly the snorkels impact would be small compared). With the flapper disabled the bike would pull in too much air below 5500RPM (which from memory is it's cut-off, or rather, fully open, point), which when in closed loop mode would be compensated for by the ECU. Eliminate those O2 sensors and suddenly it doesn't work so good any more. Of course, this doesn't make sense in light of the number of people out there who have no issues with their PCs or O2 elims with the flapper disabled, but it did the trick for me.

So the lesson there is - if your bike is running like crap after you have just installed a power commander, check you air intakes.

After restoring the flapper I loaded up Cozye's map, which run rather well really. Over the next few weeks a tweaked it by feel, and the map progressively got better and better (well, felt like it anyway). I decided at that point that PCVs are great, and keenly awaited my next new 'toy', the Autotune.


Autotune - Install and setup

As I said above, I obtained my Autotune a little over 4 weeks after I had installed the PCV. By that point I was happy enough with my tweak-by-feel version of Cozye's map - enough that it would make a good base map to start with for my Autotune adventure.

Installation is pretty easy again, but there is a bit more to it then for the original PCV. As long as you have the tools it should not take you more then 90 minutes (including drinks breaks) if you take it slow and check you work. May I suggest you take it slow and check your work (I'll tell you why shortly). The instructions are pretty good so you should follow them, but they are not as good as the instructions for the PCV unit (I guess that's because they are generic all-bike instructions).

A few tips:
Do not forget the CAN terminator - you put it in the spare plug on the Autotune, not the PCV.
Make sure you install the cables properly - on the Autotune module there is a membrane protecting the internal connectors which you have to pierce - I used a small jewellers screwdriver first to do this, which made inserting the cables a piece of cake.
Make sure you get the cables in the correct order.
You can install the sensor in either of the O2 sensor positions (one is for cyl 1 & 3, the other cyl 2 & 4), but you will have a much easier time of it installing it in the leftwards most one (see pic).
I thought the O2 sensor cable connector (used to plug the sensor into the extension that runs to the module) looked like it was asking for dirt and crud to get into it, so I cocooned it is electrical tape. Probably not necessary, but I would rather not spend a few hours down the line cleaning it out with compressed air and contact cleaner (see pic).
I suggest hooking up the speed sensor and temp sensor wires now. Save yourself the trouble of doing it later (even if you don't intend to use either, though you really should). A decent length of wire will suffice, and use either posi-taps or slip the wire into a connector trick to connect them. See the below pictures to see which wires you are looking for on the bike. Remember these go to the PCV itself, not the Autotune.


My Autotunes temporary accommodation (due to cableing for now)


Where the O2 sensor goes (or rather replaces the existing one). Yes, my bike is dirty and in need of a good clean


Autotune cable (in the black sheath) and wires for speed and temp sensors (white and yellow)


Temp sensor is the yellow-with-blue-stripe wire


Speed sensor is the pretty little pink wire


O2 plug wrapped up for its own protection


Everything nicely tucked away

Once I had everything install, I popped the bike up on the centre stand, turned it on and let the bike warm up with the PCV plugged into my laptop (so I could see all the readings). Much to my horror, the AFR continued to be reported as 9.99 - according to the instructions this is a bad sign. I went over and double checked everything but it still reported 9.99 - but no other errors and its little LED was blinking correctly. Turns out that before I wrapped up the 12v connection for the Autotune (which powers the O2 sensors heating element) in electrical tape, I forgot to actually connect the lead to a 12v source! (whoops). Once I did this everything went fine. Lesson here is make sure everything is correctly hooked up - and no heater, no working, even though the exhaust would have gotten it up to operating temp.

Final setup is easy too - Dynojet supplies a default AFR map which you can use (and after taking a quick look it should be fine to use the 2006+ AFR map on a 2002-2005). I cheated and recycled CodeRighters existing good work, which I then altered to suit my needs (basically leaning out where I tended to cruise). Activate the Autotune functionality in your PCV software and you are good to go (I'll cover gearing and temp shortly).


Autotune - Usage report (without by-gear mapping)

For a couple of reasons, the main one being the KISS principle (ie. keeping it simple) I decided to start off without using all that fancy PCV stuff like map-by-gear and accelpump. I figured I would get a handle on the basics first, and then move on to the advanced features. Let me summarise the rest of this section for you - don't bother with that crap, just skip straight to map-by-gear and set the rest up right to begin with - yeah, sure, there is more points of failure where a mistake could cause problems, but it will save you a lot of screwing around otherwise. There are now a few who have blazed this trail before you (and CodeRighters write ups are an excellent resource, so use them) so you can just copy what others have done.

Now for the detailed information. The Autotune worked, it actually worked rather well - considering that it was not made for the 2002-2005, nor supported, I was a little surprised at how easy it all was (sure, there isn't that much different between 2002-2005 and 2006+, but there are key differences, enough to cause problems). I started riding, it started trimming, I started accepting these trims and letting the Autotune work towards a nice balanced map of its own. The trims were pretty mad to begin with, but I sort of expected that - I figured it would work itself out over time (basically averaging its way towards an approximate optimum).

To help demonstrate what’s going on each time you go out for a ride (and then accept the new trim tables) here are some nice pretty graphs coming some sets of readings. For reference there is an average of CodeRighter's map (which he made using his autotune over some considerable time), there is the base map which I started with, and there is the fuel map from a number of 'reading' points were basically I have accepted the trims after a decent amount of riding (normally in the region of 100km). I have only included 2% to 20% throttle maps as they show the greatest amount of change (it starts to get less and less after that as I tend not to ride around at 60% throttle much).


2% throttle


5% throttle


10% throttle


15% throttle


20% throttle

Graphs are great to see what sort of changes are going on, and clearly show the Autotune adapting as you ride (though you can tell that through feel as well). Unfortunately what these graphs don't is how it feels, and let me tell you, it felt like crap. Absolute crap. Similar to when I first installed the PCV, but in a different way. At points it was snatchy, at others, it was surgy, others boggy and occasionally bucky. Just bad. The real bad part of it was that it would switch between good and bad over the course of a ride (so obviously the system was trying to fix everything up).

I'll try to describe exactly what I felt was going on, and that should also make my eventual solution clear. I would start off and everything would be going fine, Get up into 2nd (which I tend to use as my suburban speed gear, so 40-60km/h in built up areas) and move off from home, all is good. Shift up to 3rd which I use for normal use 60-90km/h (and if I want some VTEC action 100km/h+), and things would feel bad, a little boggy, unresponsive, but it would fix itself shortly. Continue onwards basically switching between 1st, 2nd and 3rd (so suburban riding ranging from streets to main roads to avenues). Over time, it would get worse and worse and worse, and always at its worst just after a gear change - so I would be sitting at a particular RPM and throttle position for 2nd gear, then a short time later, same RPM and throttle position in 3rd gear, and it would run like absolute crap (sometimes even to the point where it felt violently unsafe). I would then later switch back to the same RPM and throttle position in 2nd gear (as I move between roads and streets) and it would be running again like absolute crap. Normally it would resolve itself, but it tended take a couple of RPM 'sweeps' (basically open the throttle a little to increase the RPM, close it a little to drop it below the range in question, then re-open, and re-close, do this 3 or 4 times and the feel improved, but wasn't really fixed). The solution was clear, map-by-gear - clearly the setting that the Autotune was establishing for a particular RPM and throttle position combination would work in one gear, but not in another. You can sort of see the problem in the graphs where between one reading and another there has been a crazy change - which I took to mean that in one trim-accept the last time I was at that throttle and RPM point I was in one gear, and at the other trim-accept I was in a different gear.

Lesson here follows, just go straight to map-by-gear. Really, it is that much better.


Autotune - Usage report (with by-gear mapping)

Map-by-gear is pretty easy to set up. There is no gear indicator on our bikes so we need to basically tap into the speed sensor and let the PCV do some quick calculations to turn speed and RPM into what gear we are in. It's actually pretty simple.

First you need to tap into the speed sensor. Basically hook the correct wire port on the PCV up to the pink wire coming out of the speed sensor (see the picture I took for where I tapped in). That's it from a physical point of view. I'll get to the software side shortly.
While you are at it, set up the temp sensor (so that you can tell the PCV to hold off using the Autotune until your engine is up to spec.). You will need to tap into a yellow-with-blue-stripe wire not too far away from the infamous blue connector. This also goes back to you PCV. I just routed the wires for these two back under the tank (following most of the other electrical bundles flowing through there).

Once that is done you need to set everything up in the software. My PCV came pre-configured with the speed scalar and gearing already set, but nothing in temperature. The problem is I live in the Rest of the World, and we here in the Rest of the World use the metric system (because it's frankly easier - decimal number system combined with a decimal measuring system) and the device was set up for those strange measurements you use over there in the USA. So I decided to reconfigure it all to make my life easier - the PCV doesn't care on what measuring system you use (if you want to measure your speed in parsecs, go right ahead), so long as all the different numbers used in the maths match up.

For those interested in the figures I came up with... (keep in mind these are for METRIC measurements, some may also be applicable to imperial applications, but you are better off doing it for yourselves)



Interestingly if you take the speed scalar I calculated and multiply it by 1.6 you get a figure very close to what Dynojet supplied (a little over 9000). This is what you would expect and shows that both Dynojet's scalar is probably on the money and the one I came up with is good too.

Gearing is the next important thing. If you don't want to use the Dynojet supplied version you can do it yourself, which is what I did. Just pop the thing on the centre stand, turn it on, put it into gear and off you go (without, obviously, going anywhere). This is much easier if you have a second person to capture the gear information on the laptop, but I was able to do it solo.

For those interested, here is what I came up with.



If you want to check that your settings are good it is a pretty simple piece of mathematics. Find a speed you like to travel at and make a mental note of the gear and RPMs. Next time you have a calculator handy take the RPM, divide by speed and then see if that number you come up with fits between the high and low gear points it the PCV. If it does, good stuff, everything is as it should be. If it is pretty close to the edge you may want to recalibrate the gear ratios for the PCV, but that's up to you.
As an example, say in 3rd gear I tend to be a little over 4500 RPM while travelling at 60km/h (which is about what my bike reports, but this is an example). If I go 4500/60 I get 75. Looking at my gear calibration in the PCV 3rd gear is about 82 to 65 - and 75 is well within that, so it's about right.
That's a pretty quick and dirty way of doing it, but if something is not right and you are using map-by-gear, it is worth having a quick check of such things.

Temp sensor isn't hard to configure either. I did a rough and ready setup (in Celsius, again metric folks), it’s probably a degree or 2 out at various points but extreme accuracy is not really needed as I only use it so the PCV knows when to start listening to the Autotune (which I do at 70 degrees C).




Now onto the main show, the usage report.

Thankfully, map-by-gear saved the day. It really did fix the problems I was having before and the Autotune started to shine (which is good, the damn thing wasn't cheap!). Once you have this thing down pat it's worth spending some time tweaking - after reading some posts by CodeRighter I started playing with the accelpump function and can report the same findings as he did, setting it so that the PCV would ignore the autotune (and letting the ECUs accelpump functions work their magic) made it feel better under accelleration. I personally set mine to have a delta of 80% and for it to last for 100 revs with no increase in fuel (so it basically takes whatever the ECU says should go happen + the existing fuel map in the PCV). Also take the time to tweak your AFR table, and whenever you accept the trims, take a look through the table for any obscene changes from one cell to its immediate brother (they do slip in there, more on that shortly).

Performance is great, the whole bike feels better now, especially as I have been able to progressively refine the autotune generated fuel map (though riding!). Fuel consumption has dropped considerably as well, and I get some strange enjoyment out of taking a look at progressive graphs of changes in the fuel map (maybe that's my inner science/maths nerd feeling good about all that data!). I'll post up some more graphs from the map-by-gear setup shortly, but I have to work out which ones are worth looking at (as obviously there are many, many more graphs then pre-map-by-gear - about 6 times as many!).

The main issue I have encountered is when the Autotune decides to be silly with neighbouring cells. As in, say at 5% throttle, 5000 RPM you will have +15 in the fuel map, and then in 5250 RPM you will have -15 in the map. The Autotune, I think, allows this when you are decelerating (sudden rush of air from the decel vacuum confuses the O2 sensor and makes the system believe it is running really lean, so it richens up that cell). This problem should be resolved next time you pass through that cell on the way up, but sometimes that may not happen for a while (typically in a RPM/throttle/gear combination you do not experience frequently). This only affects the system for a very short period of time, basically that period before you fully close the throttle (as the autotune is ignored at 0% throttle), or when your RPM levels out if you are only partially closing the throttle. It does become a nasty problem in one set of circumstances, if you are cruising along with a steady RPM and throttle position, that just happens to be close to the transition point between 2 cells of significant difference, you can enter this sort of self supporting cycle of cell-jumping - basically, you enter into the 'bad' cell, the engine is suddenly starved of either fuel or air, as such power drops and with it the revs, they drop down into a 'good' cell, starvation is resolved, engine happy, revs jump back up into the bad cell, and so on. Very annoying, and as the Autotune is a post-mortem device, it doesn't seem to be able to pick up the problem very well. The only solution I have found while out on the road is to shut the throttle, let the RPM drop below the good cell, then power back on (gently, you are aiming for the problematic throttle opening AND RPMs) and let the bike rev up to above the 'bad' cell. Do this 2 or 3 times, problem solved. Another way (though it takes a little longer) is just to increase the revs in the 'bad' cell so that it is above the transition point, the Autotune will then resolve it on its own (probably as it is getting a stable reading from the O2 sensor). The problem would probably go away if Dynojet implemented a 'reverse' accelpump (a decelpump if you will) that would tell the PCV to ignore the autotune over a particular throttle-closing delta.


Autotune - Looking to the future

As it is all running well, I am starting to turn my mind to what to do next with my Autotune. I am thinking of running some experiments with it - mostly to see what sort of effect many of the common small mods have. One thing I would like to try is to disable the flapper valve again and see what the Autotune thinks (ie. will it richen up the mixture due to the extra air?). Also I wonder what changes to air flow my K&N filter has (which is why I put the OEM back in). Never know, I may even be able to spot some evidence that those budget mods to have an impact on performance (though the scale, and whether it is positive or not would remain unknown). I'll have to think about all of that.


I am more than happy to help out anyone else thinking of installing (or having trouble with) a PCV or Autotune. If you have questions, or want pictures, feel free to ask!
For those interested, screenshots of my throttle position and Autotune settings.





(and I did warn you this would be a long piece!)

And now to finish off, various pics which may be useful...


Where the speed and temp wires go (this is set out in Dynojets instructions)


Labled image of the device in its housing - note that the USB cable is there on a permanent basis - I have it set up so that I can remove the USB type A plug from under the seat (and put it back again) without having to remove the seat at all - a real time saver!


A screen shot of the PCV software with the bike at idle (and having started to warm up)


A shot of it working, and you can check the software figures against the dash!]]> Tue, 16 Mar 2010 04:11:01 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58306-experiences-of-a-pcv-with-autotune-on-a-2004-vfr800/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58305-wtb-6th-gen-left-fork/ Tue, 16 Mar 2010 02:17:44 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58305-wtb-6th-gen-left-fork/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58303-i-think-this-is-a-motorbike/ this thing is too kewl to not share...]]> Tue, 16 Mar 2010 00:30:35 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58303-i-think-this-is-a-motorbike/ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58302-dumb-brake-question/ Mon, 15 Mar 2010 23:50:02 +0000 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58302-dumb-brake-question/